B&M and clone short shifter 2nd gen eBay Megan [Merged 3-7]

[suicidal2af]

I'd go with the eBay B&M ripoff if I'd not already gone with the B&M. Seems to be exactly the same.

A vote of confidence like that is enough to convince me. Just ordered one.

 

[Danny_305]

anyone have a how to install the ebay ones send me a link i have to install mine

 

[2GeNTSi]

This is the one I went by: http://roadraceengineering.com/instructions/bm-shortshifterinstructions.htm

The only difference I noticed is that the ebay one uses lock nuts or whatever they're called (the ones with the o-rings inside them) instead of using loctite on a regular nut.

 

[eclipse13]

You've got a point, i always figured that a cut shifter didnt, but i see what you mean.

oh, and I dont know what counterintuitive means. :thumbdown

 

[joe039]

I got a B&M along w/ a symborski bushings kit, it's BEAUTIFUL. i LOVE IT If i ever get rich and famous, im gonna drive around w/ B&M shifters and FIPK's and hand them out to people i see driving unmodded GST's and GSX's

 

[polarmoment]

The tradeoff that you get with a cut shifter is that you get a shorter throw at the expense of leverage, which could potentially be counterintuitive..

well, the same applies with the "short shifter." you're getting a shorter throw at the expense of leverage by moving the pivot higher so that the portion of the shifter below the fulcrum is longer, resulting in less throw at the knob, despite the stock height. the difference is that with the true short shifter, the pivot point is moved instead of just shortening the end of the lever. this actually results in a bigger loss of leverage than just shortening the stock lever.

that said, the loss of leverage is well worth it.

 

[Defiant]

anyone have a how to install the ebay ones send me a link i have to install mine

Same as the B&M. But I only post for everyone:

http://www.turbo4wd.com/B&MShortShifterInstall.html

 

[2GeNTSi]

Lol I drove my brothers car today (3/S VR-4) and I'm so used to my shifter now that his moves effortlessly; but it def. has a lot of slop. I don't even notice the extra effort that I used to have to apply to shift gears. Though I think it's fully broken in now because reverse goes in and out smooth and going into fifth is no longer difficult.

 

[DSMu4ia]

You guys obviously haven't driven for a while with the B+M, it's total junk.

They are just as tall as a stock shifter, it's EASY to mis-shift, and it gets sloppy very easily. I know of a handful of people that have broken them as well.

I run a modded 2g stock shifter, the top and bottom have been cut/rewelded, gives a near 50% reduction in throw, and is alot shorter too. I added new bushings on the shifter base and on the tranny. Big improvement and nothing to break.

 

[flinguist]

You guys obviously haven't driven for a while with the B+M, it's total junk.

They are just as tall as a stock shifter, it's EASY to mis-shift, and it gets sloppy very easily. I know of a handful of people that have broken them as well.

I run a modded 2g stock shifter, the top and bottom have been cut/rewelded, gives a near 50% reduction in throw, and is alot shorter too. I added new bushings on the shifter base and on the tranny. Big improvement and nothing to break.

You're the first person who's had anything bad to say about the B&M in any of the threads that I've read. You should write up a review for it on DSM Reviews. http://www.dsmreviews.com/dsmreviews.php3?category=8002#B&M

 

[Defiant]

You guys obviously haven't driven for a while with the B+M, it's total junk.

You're the only person I've ever heard down-talk anything B&M makes.

They are just as tall as a stock shifter,

They're about 3/4" shorter.

it's EASY to mis-shift,

No easier than stock, from what I've seen.

and it gets sloppy very easily.

Not if properly installed. There's a Timpken roller bearing running on a hardened shaft. Nothing in the shifter to get sloppy.

I know of a handful of people that have broken them as well.

Show me a picture. You couldn't get a DSM shift fork to withstand the force it would take to break the B&M.

I run a modded 2g stock shifter, the top and bottom have been cut/rewelded, gives a near 50% reduction in throw, and is alot shorter too. I added new bushings on the shifter base and on the tranny. Big improvement and nothing to break.

Other than the factory welds, and yours.

 

[DSMu4ia]

You're the only person I've ever heard down-talk anything B&M makes.They're about 3/4" shorter.No easier than stock, from what I've seen.Not if properly installed. There's a Timpken roller bearing running on a hardened shaft. Nothing in the shifter to get sloppy.Show me a picture. You couldn't get a DSM shift fork to withstand the force it would take to break the B&M.Other than the factory welds, and yours.

Heaven forbid if I downtalk a product a bunch of people seem to like. Couple people ask how others like the B+M, and I state my experience.

Join the other board where people who have a clue and have fast cars hang out, you'll see.

 

[suicidal2af]

Heaven forbid if I downtalk a product a bunch of people seem to like. Couple people ask how others like the B+M, and I state my experience.

Join the other board where people who have a clue and have fast cars hang out, you'll see.

I think the problem with your post is that you experience 2 issues that nobody else on this board has ever experienced, and technically are impossible. There is nothing to get sloppy on the B&M short shifter for our cars...at least, if you used loctite when you installed it. And nobody has broken one. Nobody. As Defiant pointed out, your shift fork would break long before the B&M shifter broke.

Provide some pics of a broken B&M and you'll be more believed.

 

[redhot2G]

Well, got my girl the ebay B&M clonel and symborski kit for xmas. Install only had 3 problems: 1) Couldn't get to the front left bushing on the shifter plate (hydro line in the way) so only 3 outta 4 bolts on that plate have the metal bushings; I guess thats enough. 2) My symborski kit off of ebay didn't come with the long tube to go on the shifter bolt, still not sure why but couldnt feel any play in the shifter so I guess its ok 3) That e-clip sucked ass. It was about 25 degrees when I was trying to install all this so needless to say it wasn't fun and really hurt tryin to push that damn thing on. Eventually tried with a pair of pliers and the damn thing slipped and shot off somewhere in the car. Gone. Had to make an 8:30 pm run to Autozone before it closed to get new e-clips which they luckily had. Came back and the replacements worked like a charm because they weren't so damn stiff. Anyway, got it set to the 35% reduction and seems to shift like a charm. Didn't use locktite but I'm guessing the rubber bushing in the bolt of the shifter arm will keep it on.

Shifter looks nice and works great. Wish it was a lil shorter tho... Also, shift knob that came with it sucked ass and when screwed on all the way, had the numbers facing sideways
Anyway, I recommend it to anyone who wants to save a few bucks over the B&M

 

[Defiant]

Didn't use locktite but I'm guessing the rubber bushing in the bolt of the shifter arm will keep it on.

It won't. Use the Locktite.

 

[2GeNTSi]

Your shit knob ended up with the numbers sideways? Weird mine fit fine, although I already had an aftermarket one so I never intended to use it.

Also the shifter plate bushings that I got didn't come with the sleeve as well (but I knew it didn't). I think only the actual symborski kit comes with the sleeve, ebay ones I don't believe have them...unless they advertise that they do include it.

redhot2G : you should be able to get to the front left bushing, I think when I did it I just removed the cotter pin from that shifter cable so that I could move it around.

Oh yeah it's been more then a month and so far no problems.

 

[iNdo]

calling all successful ebay short shifter B&M clone purchasers is this the right one?????

late merry christmas to me maybe?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7943426856&category=33736

 

[2GeNTSi]

yup

 

[cubedmayhem]

undefinedundefinedundefined after reading all of the good reviews of the ebay cheapy ( it is the one with the purple piece right) thinkin bout grabbin one. But i got one question they are saying it will reduce throw by 80% and some say 40% which is right?

 

[suicidal2af]

Well, got my girl the ebay B&M clonel and symborski kit for xmas. Install only had 3 problems: 1) Couldn't get to the front left bushing on the shifter plate (hydro line in the way) so only 3 outta 4 bolts on that plate have the metal bushings; I guess thats enough. 2) My symborski kit off of ebay didn't come with the long tube to go on the shifter bolt, still not sure why but couldnt feel any play in the shifter so I guess its ok 3) That e-clip sucked ass. It was about 25 degrees when I was trying to install all this so needless to say it wasn't fun and really hurt tryin to push that damn thing on. Eventually tried with a pair of pliers and the damn thing slipped and shot off somewhere in the car. Gone. Had to make an 8:30 pm run to Autozone before it closed to get new e-clips which they luckily had. Came back and the replacements worked like a charm because they weren't so damn stiff. Anyway, got it set to the 35% reduction and seems to shift like a charm. Didn't use locktite but I'm guessing the rubber bushing in the bolt of the shifter arm will keep it on.

Shifter looks nice and works great. Wish it was a lil shorter tho... Also, shift knob that came with it sucked ass and when screwed on all the way, had the numbers facing sideways
Anyway, I recommend it to anyone who wants to save a few bucks over the B&M

The top left bushing is a pita. It took me 10 minutes to do everything else, but that last one took me 30 minutes to figure out without removing the cable. It's actually fairly simple...pop your socket on an extension or a spinner handle, insert it on an angle until you get a couple points onto the bolt, and then rotate it straight up. Most standard sockets will fit perfectly, with a few mm to spare -- just enough to remove the bolt. Getting it out is a little more tricky but working it out the same way you put it in will get it free eventually.

Go back and do that bushing, and then take the shifter back off an Loctite everything. I tube of Loctite costs about 2 dollars at home depot, you may as well solve a problem before it starts. Don't cheap out on 2 dollars here...you just saved $100 or so, remember? :thumbdown:

Now, I should mention a followup since I have my bushings and shifter in now. I did the Energy Suspension bushings, since they're cheaper and you won't really see a noticeable difference between the metal bushings and polyurethane...other than the clink you get from metal. There is a HUGE difference imo in the feel of the shifter from the bushings. I should also note that I did the bushings about 3 days before the shifter, so I drove on a stock shifter for a while with them. The gates feel much more defined, and when you hit a stop, the shifter stop dead in its tracks. It was a tad more uncofmortable to drive at first. Part of it had to do with a small increase in vibration. The other factor was that if you're used to slamming the shifter into gear, the sudden stop with no flex or play in the shifter plate will bruise up your hand a little bit. After about a day or so, I stopped noticing both of these symptoms. Is this the "best mod ever" as some people try to say it is? No. But for $15, you should be shot if you don't do it. It's cheap, easy, and makes driving more pleasant.

The short shifter is great. I went straight to the 50% reduction, and I'm glad I did. Install was a breeze, with the exception of 2 things. The eclip is a pain in the ass. The other small problem is that the sleeve on the inside of the shifter cable's bushing was a touch too long on my car, and caused it to block the slot on the cable pin for the eclip. I had to dremel it down about 1/32" to make it fit, but no complaints other than that. It should be noted here that this was not a problem with the product, but rather a problem with a factory piece on my car. Assembly of the shifter itself is a breeze. I glanced at the B&M instructions on RRE to note where the nylon washers went, everything else is pretty much self explanatory. Be sure to loctite everything(The factory loctited the stock pivot...if they deemed it necessary, there's probably a good reason.) My only complaint is that I'm not a big fan of the aluminum shiftknob it came with, and the top of the shifter is a smaller diameter than stock, and my stock knob won't go on it. All in all, it's definitely worth the B&M price, let alone the ebay clone price.

Now if only I could drive my car right now. Stupid water pump needs to be replaced before it throws the pulley a mile and a half.

 

[Defiant]

undefinedundefinedundefined after reading all of the good reviews of the ebay cheapy ( it is the one with the purple piece right) thinkin bout grabbin one. But i got one question they are saying it will reduce throw by 80% and some say 40% which is right?

There's 2 settings: 35% and 50%.

 

[eclipse13]

My girlfriend got me a short throw shifter for Christmas. It is either a B&M or a Megan racing one, I cant tell. They look almost identical in the online pictures. So just in case I want to know if anyone has had any experience with a Megan racing short throw shifter. I have a Megan muffler and strut bars so I know that megan makes some quality stuff. I mainly want to know if it actually shortens the throw or if it is shorter on the top. Any info about these would be helpful.

Thanks

 

[Jeremoose]

Hey all, quick dumb question, I'd like to blow like $50 on the talon, and I noticed a ton of short shifters for $50 or less on ebay... Have any of you had any experience with them, are they any good? Thanks for the feedback.

P.S. If you KNOW of one that's good, feel free to lemme' know which one it was.

 

[Defiant]

The eBays are fine.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=123104&page=1&pp=25

 

[Jeremoose]

Whoops, sorry, thanks.