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SM in a spyder that is 99% stock.

You are toast.

:)
 
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Sweet. Thanks for clearing that up for me. I was actually an SCCA member a few years ago, didnt get to race though :(

So far, 'winning' isn't a concern for me, just the fun and experience of racing. Trying to win will come later on.
 
I didn't realize (...read carefully enough to know...) that he has an upgraded turbo. That changes things a tiny bit. I was thinking he only had a new radiator.

When I first got a DSM, I did what many people do and got a popular but worthless first mod: STBs. This put me in ESP in an otherwise bone-stock car, including two-year-old RSAs, in Sam Strano's home region no less. Being 10 seconds off the pace almost made me not come back.
 
Yes. Unless you update/backdate a whole lot of other stuff at the same time (which would allow you to stay in ESP), that will take you to SM.

But please note that Sam Krauss, driving ACM's car, recently won the ProSolo championship in ESP with a t25. Your problem is owning a wrong-wheel drive car, not the turbo.
 
I am planning to do an AWD swap, which I know will increase weight, along with more weight from stiffening the chassis due to AWD. For those reasons I was looking toward that 450-500hp limit so I could have more power to move the weight. Would that sound about right, or is it not as bad as I've thought?
 
I am planning to do an AWD swap, which I know will increase weight, along with more weight from stiffening the chassis due to AWD. For those reasons I was looking toward that 450-500hp limit so I could have more power to move the weight. Would that sound about right, or is it not as bad as I've thought?

You have a convertible. The car is floppy to begin with, and an AWD swap will not make the car any stiffer. Just because Andrew Brilliant made a FWD convertible Time Attack car doesn't mean you should start down this path as well, a bit in autocross, where FWD DSMs have a bigger disadvantage against Integras etc.

450-500 horsepower is completely unfeasible for autocross, and is worthless because you're lucky if you even hit the top of third gear in autocross on a DSM gearbox. That and the kind of lag you'd get from a turbo that big to support those numbers would make the car not responsive enough.

You are wasting your time chasing power numbers.

If you really want to make a super duper autocross DSM, get a tin top 2G AWD and replace all the bushings, seam weld the chassis, throw some better differentials in it, get a set of Penske's setup by someone who knows what they're doing, and some really wide tires.
 
Again, I don't give a rat's behind what the peak hp is (for autocrossing). What matters is the torque curve. If it's sharp and late, as I've seen from some dyno queens, then it'll be worse than stock. It needs to kick in early and remain relatively constant.

As to autocrossing a Spyder ... you're braver than I am. There was one guy back in State College with a Spyder with a big turbo. I tried it once during fun-runs. It was not even worth the $1. The only positive of that experience was knowing not to rag on him any more for his times.
 
No problem. Either way, jtoby's correct in that hp numbers don't matter. If you must upgrade the turbo, get something small that spools quickly.

The BigT28 already is the autocross turbo. Unless someone's been developing better ball bearing options?
 
Even my 50trim is too big for autocross. If I were autocrossing I would run a big 16g or something in that area because right now even my turbo spools too late. If you are looking for the 450-500hp range you will be looking at a BB 50 trim and then you would still spool too late for autocross track. Everyone on here is right about the torque curve. In road racing that curve can be a little more in the higher rpm's but still needs to be low. With autocross you want that torque as soon as you hit the gas which means you are looking at something that spools at around 3000rpm's in low gears.
 
You have a convertible. The car is floppy to begin with, and an AWD swap will not make the car any stiffer. Just because Andrew Brilliant made a FWD convertible Time Attack car doesn't mean you should start down this path as well, a bit in autocross, where FWD DSMs have a bigger disadvantage against Integras etc.

450-500 horsepower is completely unfeasible for autocross, and is worthless because you're lucky if you even hit the top of third gear in autocross on a DSM gearbox. That and the kind of lag you'd get from a turbo that big to support those numbers would make the car not responsive enough.

You are wasting your time chasing power numbers.

Don't take this the wrong way, I mean it in no such matter. I know you're only providing info and options, which is appreciated. I do know that the spyders are floppy, and in no way did I mean the AWD would stiffen the chassis. I know it won't. What I did mean, is that by adding the AWD, I'd have to further stiffen the chassis to avoid the chassis flex caused by the AWD and therefore would be adding more chassis strengthening components to combat the flex, which in turn will add more weight. Which is the reason for higher power numbers to compensate for the added weight of AWD and the chassis strength upgrades. Also, I'm not trying to follow in anyone's foot steps. Andrew's spyder is indeed awesome, but I'm building my spyder to have something different than the rest of the crowd. As for chasing hp numbers, please don't think I am. I'm not. Just setting a goal that makes sense to me to help move the extra weight around. If that can be achieved with lower power, I'll go that route. This for now is just the base line concept I've come up with. All subject to change.


I also plan in doing a 16g swap in the future, nothing bigger. Which I know means I probably won't get the hp numbers I've stated. I'm fine with that.
 
I just got a jumkyard hood and cut a hole in it above my header, look at my gallery, theres a pic in there of it. Underhood temps reduced drastically, I can see heat waves coming out of it while going slow or especially sitting at a light. Also makes a great hand warmer at a cold track LOL!

I runa big 16G and it would be too laggy for a FMIC setup, since I run air/water cooling the piping is so short that it spools about 2700ish.
 
The vent is from a GT500, I had to take out about 6" in the middle to make it work. I don't have before/after data, someday I'll tape it off and get some numbers. I would have liked to go a bit further back on the hood,but the bulge and hood bracing conspired against me.

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