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1G Auto is sluggish stop & go

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Xtremboost87

Proven Member
92
7
Jul 22, 2014
Indianapolis, Indiana
Are all auto dsm's sluggish when leaving from a stop? Whenever I'm at a stop and I push the gas to accelerate the car just feels really doggy "no pep" untill boost comes on. Is there a way to make the car a little more snappy without having to launch it?? My 97 ford escort auto has more pep off the line.
 
As long as nothing is wrong with your engine or trans...Stroker and/or restalled converter.
 
I've actually noticed a difference between individual torque converter and transmission combinations. I.E I had some JDM trans in my car when I bought it, I swapped back to an OEM DSM trans and the converter seems a bit looser than the old one was. Not a big deal, just an observation I had.
 
Out of boost its a very low compression , low power, engine in a heavy awd car through an automatic trans. Of course its going to be sluggish. Either drop weight or add power.
 
I've stripped a lot of weight out of it. And what can be done to add power that low in the RPMs without a high compression motor?
 
Are you still running the stock 13 g turbo and stock manifold? I didn't see any mods in your profile. Any tuning done? My awd auto is quite peppy. But, I have full line pressure, and I manually shift. Factory stall as well.
In stock setup, the awd autos are a slug. The shifts are sloppy, and weak. Just adding full line pressure will wake it up to a point. Need to fill out your mod list.
 
No right now I have a 16g turbo on it, tubular manifold. Tons of mods don't have the time to list them all right now. Also has a chip tune in the ecu. I would like to do the full line pressure but no idea how to do it.
 
No right now I have a 16g turbo on it, tubular manifold. Tons of mods don't have the time to list them all right now. Also has a chip tune in the ecu. I would like to do the full line pressure but no idea how to do it.
You need to change your tune in the low RPM range. Google how to do it, there are several ways and you should pick what you think is best for your needs.
 
Get the converter restalled. Instead of starting at 1800rpms pulling away from a red light, you'll be in the mid-upper 2,000's and building boost from a dead stop.

I don't know much about autos, but wouldn't getting a higher stall cause it to be more sluggish for day to day driving? Isn't the stall sort of like the ability for it to slip before it completely engages? So you would need to use more throttle to get it to move with a higher stall? I don't know a lot about autos, but that's sort of how I thought it worked.
 
I don't know much about autos, but wouldn't getting a higher stall cause it to be more sluggish for day to day driving? Isn't the stall sort of like the ability for it to slip before it completely engages? So you would need to use more throttle to get it to move with a higher stall? I don't know a lot about autos, but that's sort of how I thought it worked.


That's not how it works. A higher stall converter lets the engine operate in an rpm range where it makes more torque, sooner than a stock converter.


With a stock converter you have to speed the entire car up to get the engine to a high enough rpm to make boost. With the right converter the engine always operates at a higher rpm.

With a stock converter the Rpms will flash to around 2000-2200 when floored from a dead stop. With a restall you can leave a red light at around 2800 rpms.

Also, when a torque converter is stalling it is actually multiplying torque.
 
You've got me interested in this tuning thing with an Ostrich. I checked out the tunerpro web site. Can you explain exactly how this would work, dummies version? Lol I was planning on buying Link v3 but if I can go this route it seems much cheaper. Would this basically do the same as DSMLink?
 
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