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AT A LOSS - NEW BUILD WONT START!

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dUo-sx

10+ Year Contributor
45
1
Aug 30, 2012
wichita, Kansas
Hello, I have a 1g tsi awd eagle talon. After a fresh rebuild im having trouble starting the car.

I have gone through the NO START write ups and been through each system that starts the car. I get fuel, spark, air, timing is spot on, compression is good for being cold. My Cas is correct, tdc with markings set right. The coolant temp sensor has been replaced.

The only problem im having besides not starting, is that my fpr will not return fuel, nothing comes out of return outlet while car is turning over and engine is struggling to run then dies (about 20 secs). Ive tried 3 dif used fprs and they all do this. I assume this is a huge problem.. and my fuel pressure is being effected.

My fuel pump is a 255, fuel is coming out strong at pass side rail, injectors are spraying. Spark is strong on all 4 plugs. Air seem to be fine i havent done much there besides change out 2 mafs (2g maf on 1g) and unplug it, but nothing changes outcome of a no start.

Some history of the car is that it did sit for years with gas in the tank. The tank was dropped and i did electrolysis for days as well as taking it to be professionally cleaned through a boiling process. The pump was changed as well as the fuel filter, twice i may add, once at beginning and another time after first start. 2 sets of injectors have been tried with no difference. Gas is clean from tank to rail.

My thought on what it could be
1. the bold paragraph ^^^
2. fuel lines corroded ?

Im am now at a loss of what it could be, please help!! :pray:
 
yes fuel filter changed twice as stated. The pump is still on stock wiring, ive been thinking about rewire myself.. but that still doesnt solve why it wouldnt start . :/
 
do any of your fpr's have a gauge on them ? you said you're getting flow, but i think the fpr not returning fuel means you're not making ~36psi fuel pressure.
 
This may sound stupid, but did you forget to plug in your CAS sensor? This would cause the car to struggle to run, and then die..
 
Ty for responses. Yes the cas is plugged in, all of the fprs are stock so no gauge, I havent checked pressure yet either, but I am getting plenty of fuel to the rail.
Now I was talking to someone who use to build some dsms and he said he had a similar problem where it acted like it wanted to start but never did and he too thought it was fuel related.. only later to find out ecu was bad. I havent touched the ecu and the car its been garage kept all these years. I guess it could be it but I wouldnt think the car would start at all if capacitors where bad. Idk.
 
Well at the least it's worth it to take the ecu out, open it up and inspect it for signs of any damage, make sure you check both sides of the ecu board.

Also might want to check out the mpi relay, the fuel pump gets it's power from it, so maybe the mpi relay is on it's way out and shutting off the power supply to the fuel pump...

The only things that come to my mind that could reduce the fuel flow, would be... Debris in the return line [or in the fpr itself], or low voltage to the fuel pump, or even a faulty fuel pump, or a clogged filter or strainer.

inspect all the engine sensor connectors under the hood too, check for damaged, or cracked wires, or any corrosion inside the connectors, also make sure they are all connected properly.
while it still could just be like you stated a bad fpr, maybe even a bad fpr solenoid [check it if it's still on your car] .
 
Well im back.. sadly i only get 1 day a week to really work on the car. Anyway since last post I have only replaced ecu with a loaner and that didnt solve anything. It still acts like its ready to keep running but you have to dump fuel for it to even stay on 20-30 seconds. It then proceeds to chug and dies.[DOUBLEPOST=1408926283][/DOUBLEPOST]

btw - I did check compression dry and cold and it was 120 psi across the 4. timing is excellent, notches are right in line with each other horizontally, with cam gear dowles at 12 o clock. spark is bright. fuel is pumping plenty to rail. Only things left is the MAS. As i stated earlier ive changed out the MAS with another one, as well as disconnected it while trying to start the car, and there is no change that i can feel.

Its important to note, i had done a 2g to 1g mas swap years ago, so the car is running a 2g mas and i did the wiring. It ran great after this mod way back when so i have faith wiring is still right. the car would still run i believe if the cas was bad tho just not very well.

any thoughts, advice, suggestions welcomed. ty[DOUBLEPOST=1408954277][/DOUBLEPOST]finally checked fuel pressure, and it hits a wall at 10psi. So low fuel pressure for sure. went to check fuel pump pressure output at the pump but couldnt attempt due to no adapter bolt for output line to gauge.

I will recap on what i know now for fuel system.. the pump is new walboro 255, the mpi fuse works fine, there are no fuel leaks, the relay hasnt been tested besides doing the jumper cable test and listening for whirrling from open gas door. This test was inconclusive as i was the only one working and had to turn key and run to door to listen, which btw i didnt hear anything.. possible bad relay but test inconclusive. lastly I know now there is a low fuel pressure problem.[DOUBLEPOST=1408960678][/DOUBLEPOST]***********UPDATE SOLVED************


good news got the car running just need to fine tweak some idle settings now. The culprit was the fuel pump o-ring wasnt seated correctly, and it would of helped to have the adapter installed too! LOL. put adapter on and reseated oring, and its up and running. To bad the weekends over already! til next time! :]
 
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Okay now that car is running with right at ~40 psi fuel pressure it wont idle correctly.. it will only run if i keep giving gas.. what could be the issue here? i did a boost leak test and had a couple small leaks that i sealed up, but that didnt seem to help. Only thing i could think of is that with the 2g maf and 2g injectors on my 1g tuning is required?? I know that a 2g maf on 1g requires some tuning but i also remember i ran this setup fine years ago although unsafe levels of knock at boost.
 
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