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Arp head studs

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ninjadave

10+ Year Contributor
59
0
Jan 26, 2012
Port Charlotte, Florida
Hey everyone, so I'm a little nervous here. I installed my arp head studs, used the lube that came with it and did the whole hand tightening. But, all the studs arnt leveled even after fully torquing down. Will that be a problem or do I need to take them out and retry again. And they were brand new first time installed. Thanks.
 
I tried that, but I guess ill have to keep doing it. Will I have to get a new head gasket again since I already torqued them down on it? It was a mls type.
 
You should be ok your supposed to torque down lossen and torque again anyway. But air and the grease cause to much pressure under the stud. So lossen them until you hear the air escape then tighten again. I know when I did mine some took longer than others to get all the way down.
 
Okay I understand now. Thanks definitely helped calm the nervous a bit LOL. I'm building everything new pretty much, the whole motor. Just wanna make sure it's all right.
 
Did you run a tap into all the block stud holes? If not there might be some debis oil or coolant preventing the studs from seating all the way in the block. Once you know they are clean bottom the studs out and turn then out each 1/2 turn for proper torquing. then apply your lube and torque in sequence. 30/60/90 or what ever you final torque may be.
 
No I didn't do that. Do you know what size it is? I can go to the parts store tomorrow to finish the job. Thanks
 
I'm not sure on the tapping size but i'd invest in a good metric tap set (both a coarse and fine set). Even though you don't live by salted roads you still never know when you might need it elsewhere on your car. Very helpful for someone that always wrenching.
 
While running a tap through the threads is a good idea, it's not always necessary. I usually spray some carb cleaner into the holes and then dry them out with compressed air. Then put a small dab of grease on the threads, use an allen wrench to get them snug, and back out 1/2 a turn or so.

I wouldn't worry too much about them being perfectly level. As long as all the threads are engaged (none sticking out above the deck) then you'll be fine.
 
Last edited:
Its a 12 mm tap I dont know the thread pitch of hand. Just match up the tap and the stud threads together.. if its correct they should fit in with one another perfectly side by side. Use wd 40 or some kind of light oil on the tap then blow out the block hole with compressed air and a rag to cover it then put the stud in the block DRY using an allen key. Like one of the guys said above as long as you see the stud is bottomed on the deck and you see no threads your good to go.
 
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