ARP Head Studs question

[TSITurbo95]

Ok, so I want to swap out my stock head studs for my arp head studs. My question is what is how many times can arp's be torqued? Also to what torque? I have a stock 7 bolt and am wanting to change to arp's for some quality assurance. Also, my motor is healthy with perfect compression across the board. Stating so, do you all think it is safe to run 20psi with my afr being 10.5-11? Thanks.

 

[Eeeeky]

I have my ARP's torqued to 90 ft lbs, but im soon to be running 40+ PSI. Youd be wise to torque to at least 75, or 80 ft lbs, unless you want your head as tight as 90. As far as how many times it can be torqued, im not too sure. I have a set that are still running today, and have probably been torqued over 5 times. 20 PSI shouldnt be a problem, Just make sure you Torque the head to decent spec.

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

Check out this thread: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/371925-arp-head-stud-torque-6-bolt.html.

The instructions say: With ARP molly lube 80 ft. lbs., with 30 weight oil 120 ft. lbs.

I tightened mine to 85 ft. lbs. with the ARP molly Lube.

ARP 100-9908 - ARP Ultra Torque Assembly Lubricant - Overview - SummitRacing.com


Do not torque regular ARPs to 100+ ft/lbs, regardless of what anyone else says. It's 80-85 ft/lbs with moly lube and 120 ft/lbs with 30wt oil.

An ARP studs torque value is actually typically 75% of the yield strength. But ARP's torque recommendations are usually a little on the conservative side, so you can usually exceed their recommendations by a little bit, but not much. If 80 ft/lbs is 75% of it's yield strength, then 100% would put it at around 107 ft/lbs. That's why it pains me to see guys torquing standard ARPs to 105 ft/lbs (with moly) thinking that it's better, when in reality they're ruining their studs before they even use them.

The reason for the higher value with motor oil is due to friction. The threads will drag and create friction and that will "inflate" the torque value. 120 ft/lbs with motor oil is basically 80 ft/lbs of torque and 40 ft/lbs of friction drag. In the end, the nut will be equally tight with either method, but using moly lube will yield a more accurate clamp force across the board.

Hope this helps!

 

[TSITurbo95]

Yes, exactly what I was looking for, thanks!

 

[TalonEsi_96]

ExtremePsi has some for $6.95

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

Yes, exactly what I was looking for, thanks!

You got it man!

ExtremePsi has some for $6.95

Has what for $6.95

 

[TSITurbo95]

The arp lube. But ExtremePSI wants 7.50 just to handle it, not worth it in my book . I just contacted Josh at JNZ, he's taking care of me. Thanks.

 

[TalonEsi_96]

He said he was looking for arp moly lube

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

The arp lube. But ExtremePSI wants 7.50 just to handle it, not worth it in my book . I just contacted Josh at JNZ, he's taking care of me. Thanks.

If you are buying a new set of ARP's they come with a package of moly lube.

By the way... JNZ rocks!!!

He said he was looking for arp moly lube

Oh I missed that part, sorry.

 

[TSITurbo95]

Ok so one last question. I plan on taking out one head stud at a time, then replacing it with the new arp ones. Do I just torque it down to 80ft pounds after putting it in, or do I torque it a little at a time?

 

[92AWDHX40]

You need to follow the steps of the arps its a sequence arp install.

 

[TSITurbo95]

I don't have the instructions in which why I am asking. And I did not know they still applied since I am installing one at a time with the head still on the car.

So after I take the old head stud out, and put the new arp in, just torque it to 80 ft pounds in one try?

 

[burkgonzo]

No there is a certain to do it, search for it on google. Look for ARP torque procedure.

 

[BigBeans]

I don't have the instructions in which why I am asking. And I did not know they still applied since I am installing one at a time with the head still on the car.

So after I take the old head stud out, and put the new arp in, just torque it to 80 ft pounds in one try?

You can do that, just do it in sequence.

It sucks to do with the head on because it's going to be a PITA to put the studs in, and you can't clean the holes in the block, but i'm sure it'll work just fine.

BTW, you should only put the studs in finger tight. You might have to put 2 nuts on the stud to get it into the block, but make sure you don't put it in too tight, it can damage the block.

 

[TSITurbo95]

Perfect, just what i needed to know. Thank you.

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

Usually do do it in 3 sequences, 30, 60, 85. Since you are only doing 1 at a time you should be fine going straight to 85.

 

[BigBeans]

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[99gst_racer]

It's worth noting that the torque specs listed above are for the larger 6-bolt (12mm) studs. The 7-bolt (11mm) studs have a slightly lower torque number. I recommend 75-80 ft/lbs for the standard 11mm ARPs.

My question is what is how many times can arp's be torqued?

There is no limit on how many times they can be torqued down. As long as they aren't ever overtorqued, you can continue to use them over and over again. Actually, it's worth noting that the level of friction of the threads changes slightly each time it's torqued down. Friction is at it's highest level the first time it's tightened. As you cycle torquing and loosening, the level of friction will continue to reduce itself and eventually level out at a constant. ARP recommends 5 cycles to reduce their fasteners to a lesser and constant friction value using their moly lube. So, technically, a used set of ARPs can provide more accurate cylinder head clamping than a brand new set.

 

[TSITurbo95]

Sweet, thanks for the new info

 

[tturbolife1]

I've torqued mine 4 times, next week will be 5 times. I always apply molly lube that i buy from the local autopart store $5.95. Also, I've used my cometic HG 3 times, im running 25 psi daily and I've never had a problem, its been 5000 miles so far.