ARP Head Bolts or Studs

[Tanro]

Does ARP Make head bolts for our cars?

If not is there a reliable company that makes head bolts?

Or should I got with studs? I really efing hate studs because there a pain in my ass to mess with.

Edit:

Also pretaining to connectors. I am getting the OEM flywheel set from SBR but I was wondering about exhuast bolts.

I am looking on ssstuds.com should I be getting a kit that matches my manifold or my head?

Looking to put my 2g turbo mani onto the 1g head.

 

[Cassera]

Just get studs. They will be enough for most hi hp cars. Once you have Head studs, I would start looking for main bolts once you reach the 450-500hp range IMO (and that's being on the safe side), unless your running an INSANE amount of boost on a "small" turbo with high compression. But ay, if you have the money than get both for extra insurance.

What hp goals are you aiming for? With what set-up?

Yes ARP does make Main studs for our cars

 

[pboglio]

A bolt is inferior to a stud/nut combo. I'm not sure how installing a head stud kit can be a pain in the ass, its about as hard as swapping an airfilter.

 

[Tanro]

Not all what I was asking about. Horse power goals is 275-350. Starting at one getting to the other.

Its just gonna be a quick street car.

I want good strong head BOLTS. Cause I ####ing hate studs with a burning passion. There a pain in the ass to #### with.

Edit:

So back to my question

Does ARP or another company make a stronger bolt?

 

[Cassera]

ARP Head Bolts or Studs

Not all what I was asking about.
Its just gonna be a quick street car.

I want good strong head BOLTS. Cause I ####ing hate studs with a burning passion. There a pain in the ass to #### with.

Your confusing me along with other people . The name of the thread is ARP Head Bolts or Studs but your saying your not getting studs.

Well I guess the only option left is Head bolts! Ok, Damn that was easy!

Edit: Arp bolts OR head studs WILL be more than strong enough for your application.

 

[Tanro]

I was wanting to know if I need to get studs because no one makes bolts.

I can tell you how many times I have a broken stud in a block and no way to remove it.

Or a broken exhaust stud in a head and no way to remove it.

My Daily has 2 broken exhaust studs in the head because I got it with one, and when I finally found an OEM header I broke another off in there removing it OEM Cast Iron Manifold.

 

[Cassera]

ARP DSM Main Studs#-#DSM Internal Engine Parts#-#Engine#-#DSMparts.com - DSM Performance Parts

Than try those out

 

[pboglio]

You aren't breaking an ARP head stud, there is no way if you use a torque wrench. You would rip the head off a headbolt MUCH faster than you would snap a head stud. The studs are "broached" with a female hex for easy install and removal. They are also going into an iron block, not an aluminum head. You aren't going to be snapping or breaking anything during install unless you use a 5 foot breaker bar to install them.

If you cannot handle this, stay away from modifying a DSM cause you are in for a rude awakening on things that will truely cause you a pain in the ass. Installing headstuds is mindlessly easy.

 

[Tanro]

Ugh I dont need main studs dude I didnt even ask about them.

I dont want studs K? Nufsaid going with oem head bolts.

 

[burkgonzo]

Haha that just happened.

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

I am looking on ssstuds.com should I be getting a kit that matches my manifold or my head?

Looking to put my 2g turbo mani onto the 1g head.

Then get the 1g kit unless you want to drill and tap the head for 10 mm studs as opposed to the 1g's 8 mm.

As far as your factory head bolts, if you are going to reuse them it is recommended that you at least replace them with new OEM as they tend to stretch, which is the reason most people upgrade to ARP studs. But like pboglio said, you are more likely to strip the head of an OEM bolt then break an ARP stud.

Hoe this helps, good luck!

 

[viperlp01]

Just get studs. They will be enough for most hi hp cars. Once you have Head studs, I would start looking for main bolts once you reach the 450-500hp range IMO (and that's being on the safe side), unless your running an INSANE amount of boost on a "small" turbo with high compression. But ay, if you have the money than get both for extra insurance.

What hp goals are you aiming for? With what set-up?

Yes ARP does make Main studs for our cars

Are you being serious about the mains?? They have went deep into the 10s for a fact and maybe 9s. Im using stock mains in my build..

Also just for your information when you install ARP mains you should do an align hone to the girdle.. Its just not worth it dude.. You sound you personally profit from someone using ARP MAINs..



To the OP.. OEM head bolts are fine.. I know alot of guys that have never changed there headgasket or bolts that run alot of boost and go very fast..

 

[2gdsm_nc]

207-3900 arp head "bolts" 2g 4g63

 

[jrohner]

If you're stock like your profile shows, just get new head BOLTS; Felpro makes them and you can get them at any parts store.

I don't see what you think is such a pain about studs. You screw them in; you drop the washers on and screw the nuts on. Why is that SOOO time consuming?

The point of studs is to save on the threads in your block and for more accurate torquing.

I am looking on ssstuds.com should I be getting a kit that matches my manifold or my head?

The head, unless you're going to drill and tap the 1G head for two larger studs that 2G's have.


Cassera: where in the world did the main stud talk come from anyways

 

[Cassera]

Oh crap, For some reason I thought he was talking about Main studs...hahaha Silly me

 

[Tanro]

You have to have a special tool to put studs in. I have bought two or three stud tools and loose them in about halfway through and engine build Have to wait a week or two for a new one.

Also I dont like dealing with studs. I have studs I broken probably 20 or 30 exhausts studs in the 5 years I have been working on cars. Then you either have to spend hours drilling out the rest of the stud and then rethread the hole or you can throw the head away.

W/E I dont care. I am using OEM headbolts unless some one makes head bolts that are not torque to yield

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

You have to have a special tool to put studs in. I have bought two or three stud tools and loose them in about halfway through and engine build Have to wait a week or two for a new one.

Also I dont like dealing with studs. I have studs I broken probably 20 or 30 exhausts studs in the 5 years I have been working on cars. Then you either have to spend hours drilling out the rest of the stud and then rethread the hole or you can throw the head away.

W/E I dont care. I am using OEM headbolts unless some one makes head bolts that are not torque to yield

A special tool?!?! The only special tool you need is a torque wrench and you will need that for studs or bolts, OEM or otherwise.

I have the instructions for the APR headstuds in my hand. This is what they say:
Step 1: Clean the threads in the block.
Step 2: Screw in Studs "HAND TIGHT ONLY"
Step 3: Install head.
Step 4: Torque to 80 ft. lbs with ARP molly lube (120 ft. lbs w/ 30 wt motor oil)

No special tool required. I could care less if you use ARPs or any other stud. It's you car. I'm just clearing up some fallacies and misinformation in your post.

Also we are talking about head studs here, not exhaust studs. Exhaust studs are subjected to intense amounts of heat over long periods of time. They are heated and cooled day after day and should be replaced whenever you change the manifold because they are know for breaking. That is not the case with head studs, although the OEM's should also be replaced due to their tendency to stretch.

Hope this clear up some issues. Good luck with your build.

 

[Tanro]

Every Stud I have ever seen has that bulge you need a Stud Removal Installation tool for.

I didn't know ARPs need to only be hand tightened into the block. Yeah I have never broken a stud in the block. Allways been afraid of it though.

OEM Bolts are Torque to Yield. That is you torque them to the point they stretch.

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

I was wanting to know if I need to get studs because no one makes bolts.

I can tell you how many times I have a broken stud in a block and no way to remove it.

Or a broken exhaust stud in a head and no way to remove it.

My Daily has 2 broken exhaust studs in the head because I got it with one, and when I finally found an OEM header I broke another off in there removing it OEM Cast Iron Manifold.

Every Stud I have ever seen has that bulge you need a Stud Removal Installation tool for.

I didn't know ARPs need to only be hand tightened into the block. Yeah I have never broken a stud in the block. Allways been afraid of it though.

OEM Bolts are Torque to Yield. That is you torque them to the point they stretch.

Good luck with your build

 

[Tanro]

Meant Head in the first one. The only way I know of removing it usually ends up effing up the threads.

In the head its not as big of a deal because you can allways use a bolt onesize bigger and use a thread die according to your bolt thread pattern.

Block I see lot bigger issues with a broken stud inside it.

 

[crimsondragon]

Wow, this thread amazes me. I have broken both studs and bolts. Trust me, there's no difference. Guess what a broken bolt is? Equivalent to a broken stud in most cases except where the bolt had actual grip (unthreaded) length. I have never heard of anyone breaking an ARP headstud in the block. Those that have either had a faulty stud or they overtorqued it. It would be no different if it was a bolt. As for special tools, torque wrench is all I used. Installed them with the head on and was fine till I tore the car apart.

 

[jrohner]

I like how you compare a head stud to an exhaust stud. The reason the exhaust studs break off is because they're in the exhaust, a bolt would be more apt to break off not less. The most trouble I have is with the manifold to turbo BOLTS; it seems like at least one always breaks off if the car hasn't been run hard right before to heat them up. I don't think I've ever broke an exhaust manifold stud off in the head, and if I did it's not hard to get out anyways once the manifold is off.

Oh, and is there ANYONE else here who considers an allen wrench a special tool?


Also, you DO NOT torque the head stud into the block, so if you overtorque the stud and break it off, you can just screw it out like nothing. If you break off a head stud, I guarantee you would've broke the stock head bolt off. The reason people use them is because they're stronger, not weaker.

 

[Tanro]

WTF.. have you people never heard of a stud removal tool?

It fits down onto the bulge below the nut side threads to unscrew the stud when you can't get a nut to stay on it.