ARP head stud install

[91-gsx]

I am about to put in a full t3 setup and want the insurance of the ARP head studs that I already bought. I do not have any of the lubricant that they provide when you buy the studs new. The questions I have are:

1) What size is the allen key that I have to use to remove the head studs?
2) How do I clean the oil from the hole of the stud, I'm very worried about trapping oil in between the stud and the block? I heard it could crack the block or something if trapped.
3) Should I use loctite to keep the head studs in the block? Or just tighten them in without loctite?
4) I do not have the ARP moly assembly lubricant, or arp thread sealer. They say to use 30wt. motor oil if you do not have their type of lubricant, but they say it is not as accurate when it comes to torquing. What should I use for the lubricant?
5) ARP's directions say to torque the the nuts down to 80ft. lbs with their moly lube or 120 ft. lbs with 30wt. motor oil. Should the difference be as great as 40 ft. lbs? What have some of you torqued it too?

Sorry about the list of questions, but I'll straight up say I'm kinda paranoid sense I do not have the engine out. I do not want anything to go wrong. Feel free to add anything that I have overlooked. Also, it might be easier just to pick up some ARP moly lube, do you guys know were I could buy some?
Thanks for all the help.

 

[project_tsi]

I am about to put in a full t3 setup and want the insurance of the ARP head studs that I already bought. I do not have any of the lubricant that they provide when you buy the studs new. The questions I have are:

1) What size is the allen key that I have to use to remove the head studs?
2) How do I clean the oil from the hole of the stud, I'm very worried about trapping oil in between the stud and the block? I heard it could crack the block or something if trapped.
3) Should I use loctite to keep the head studs in the block? Or just tighten them in without loctite?
4) I do not have the ARP moly assembly lubricant, or arp thread sealer. They say to use 30wt. motor oil if you do not have their type of lubricant, but they say it is not as accurate when it comes to torquing. What should I use for the lubricant?
5) ARP's directions say to torque the the nuts down to 80ft. lbs with their moly lube or 120 ft. lbs with 30wt. motor oil. Should the difference be as great as 40 ft. lbs? What have some of you torqued it too?

Sorry about the list of questions, but I'll straight up say I'm kinda paranoid sense I do not have the engine out. I do not want anything to go wrong. Feel free to add anything that I have overlooked. Also, it might be easier just to pick up some ARP moly lube, do you guys know were I could buy some?
Thanks for all the help.

1. 5mm IIRC

2. Blow it out with an air gun or suck it out with a shop vac.

3. Its your choice. If you use loctite, you must finish the install very soon before the loctite sets up fully. I do not use loctite. My method is to drive the studs all the down into the block, then back them off about 1/4 to 1/2 turn.

4. If you don't have the lube, then use the 30wt. like stated. Or call up ARP or go down to a local ARP dealer and pick up a 1oz. tube of arp assembly lube.

5. Yes, if your not using the ARP lube, do as the direction say and torque to 120 ft. lbs.

 

[1stGenRocks]

extremepsi sells the arp lube. not sure if its on their site but they do sell it.

 

[91-gsx]

1. 5mm IIRC

2. Blow it out with an air gun or suck it out with a shop vac.

3. Its your choice. If you use loctite, you must finish the install very soon before the loctite sets up fully. I do not use loctite. My method is to drive the studs all the down into the block, then back them off about 1/4 to 1/2 turn.

4. If you don't have the lube, then use the 30wt. like stated. Or call up ARP or go down to a local ARP dealer and pick up a 1oz. tube of arp assembly lube.

5. Yes, if your not using the ARP lube, do as the direction say and torque to 120 ft. lbs.

Why do you back the stud out 1/4 to 1/2 a turn? Do you use the arp lube or the motor oil?
thanks for the help man

 

[1stGenRocks]

If you read the ARP directions they are supposed to be mounted finger tight not bottomed out. This is to let the whole thing expand and contract with heat changes I would assume, but for whatever reason they are very clear on NOT tightening them down the whole way. Chase the threads in the block with a tap or thread chaser to clean them out then use the arp lube and bolt it together.

 

[daren_p]

I believe if you torque the studs down first you can get inaccurate torque readings on the nuts. They do tell you not to tighten them down in the instructions & like Dan said, when I did mine I ran my down with an allen key then back then off about 1/4 turn.

 

[2gAWDTalon]

Go to your local auto parts store, buy some 'Moly Lube', coat up the studs and torque the bolts to 95 ft. lbs. That is what I did.
In regards to installing the studs into the block: I installed them finger tight and then gave a extra turn with a allen key.
I just pulled my head (again, urghhhh) yesterday and I noticed 2 of them were loose, I snuged them back down.

 

[hereitcomes]

You should be tourqing your studs down in stages. If you tourque them to 90, or 120 right away that is the incorrect way to do that. I did 5 stages ( 25, 35, 55, 75, 95) Depending on how much boost you want to run and your other mods, you can do different. Stages are key for even displacement of pressure on the block and head contact.

 

[Module Unknown]

If you're looking for ARP moly lube locally, I'd try Speed Merchant in San Jose, or possibly even Full Funtion in Union City since they had ARP head studs in stock for my car when I was searching for them. There's also Vic Hubbard across the bay, they might have it... or just call ARP and ask.

 

[Module Unknown]

ARP's directions say to torque the the nuts down to 80ft. lbs with their moly lube or 120 ft. lbs with 30wt. motor oil. Should the difference be as great as 40 ft. lbs? What have some of you torqued it too?

Yes, the lubricant makes that much of a difference.

As far as what to torque the nuts down to, I'd go with what's listed on the box and on ARP's website. I know others say to go higher. In fact it would seem that most people on this site say they went higher than ARP recommends. I struggled with this question myself, but in the end, after calling ARP a couple of times (just to hear an answer from a couple people) I ended up going just slightly higher than what was listed on the box. I'm sure the values are probably a little different between the 1G and 2G studs, but I seem to remember using only 75 to 80lb ft. and being told by ARP that the yield of the bolts were 90lb ft. ...of course that's for 2G hardware. It doesn't hurt to call ARP and ask.

 

[boostdog]

i torqued mine to 90lbs....no issue with it at that setting.