ARP Head Stud Install

[GSTinCO]

I'm in the middle of a head stud install w/o removal of head. The first bolt has been unscrewed all the way, the only thing needed is to pull the bolt from its shaft.

The problem arises when I try to pull the bolt out. It seems/feels as if the bolt as 'expanded' on the block side of the threads, yet I could screw it back down on the block. The bolt will not come out of its barrel as if its stuck on something. Has anybody experienced this problem before, if so, what did you do?

The block was a 7bolt? rebuilt block by a mitsu dealership when I got it.

From what I was told by everyone that's done it already, this should of been a easy install...

I had this same problem when removing my bolts but I was removing the head as well and just took the head off with 2 bolts still in it. When the head was off the block I had no problem removing the bolts. It was a very odd situation and could never really figure out what was happening. I did have some bolts that seemed stuck but with some wiggling around the eventually came out.

 

[maximumbob]

Same thing happened to me as GSTinCo. I removed it with two bolts still in the head then pushed them out with a screwdriver. I have no idea why they would come out and couldn't replicate the problem when I stuck them back in.

Bob

 

[Mr96GSX408]

Is there any way to remedy this problem without having the head removed? I'm still on my very first bolt.

 

[pneumo]

Any advantage of the 12mm over the 11mm kit?

11mm fits 7 bolt blocks, 12mm fits 6 bolt blocks.

Mr96GSX408, it's possible the threads are hung up on a lip on the headgasket. Sometimes the OEM HG will slide over slightly and push up against a headbolt. Try pulling up on the bolt while unscrewing it. HTH

 

[GSTinCO]

11mm fits 7 bolt blocks, 12mm fits 6 bolt blocks.

Mr96GSX408, it's possible the threads are hung up on a lip on the headgasket. Sometimes the OEM HG will slide over slightly and push up against a headbolt. Try pulling up on the bolt while unscrewing it. HTH

Pulling up while unscrewing the bolt is a very good idea. I put some needle nosed pliers right underneath the bolts and had a friend unscrew it and that worked for some of my bolts.

 

[Mr96GSX408]

I finally got the bolt out by using something to displace the washer, then *pop* it went out. As far as torquing it down doing the "one by one" method (w/o removing the head), which method is the one to use:

Method 1:
After removing the first bolt, replace with headstud and torque the nut onto the stud to full spec (75ft-lbs.). Move onto the next bolt, and repeat the process.

Method 2:
Remove the first bolt, but instead of torquing it down to full spec, torque to a preload setting of less than 75ft-lbs. Move onto next bolt, with the same preload - continue for the rest of the bolts. Come back later with the full torque spec (75ft-lbs.) and redo the pattern.

I'm thinking the first method is the way to go about it, but opinions are helpful as well.

 

[BISHILVR]

I'm gonna say method one as long as you follow the tightening sequence when you replace the bolts, aka: replace the first bolt that would be the first bolt you would normally tighten if you just did a new head install, tighten it up using full torque, then move to number two in the sequence and so on. If you do it this way you should'nt warp the head or block from the wrong sequence. (I hope)

 

[Korndogg]

hey guys

i'm interested in moving to ARP studs and didn't realize that this could be done without removing the head until tonight

i was wondering though...
is it possible for something to go wrong? .. by that i mean... i have the worst luck with breaking bolts off and shit.. anybody ever have a head bolt not come out easily?

thanks guys

 

[Mr96GSX408]

Well, I finished my install and other than the problem of the bolts getting stuck, it wasn't too bad.

As for the question stated above my post, I'm going to have to say that the stock head bolts were designed to be really strong, so you will not have any problems unscrewing it with a proper breaker bar. You will need a 12mm 12-point socket to remove the stock headbolts. You will also need a 13mm 12-point deep socket, 5/16'' hex key, extension, and a torque wrench to install the new studs.

One trick that I could hand down to you is that you should have a wire hanger handy. Cut a foot of the straight section of the hanger off and bend 1/4'' of the end to a 90* angle. This will be a hook to help you get the washers undone from being stuck. Next, pull the bolt out of the block until it can go no further, and try to get the hook directly under the washer, give the washer a slight pull up, and the bolt should pop out.

That is all. -Bao

 

[daren_p]

So what does everyone agree is the best method? It looks like take the stock bolts out one by one & replace it with a stud and torque it to the correct spec. Someone told me they thought you should crack all the stock bolts lose, then replace them one by one with the studs, but not torque them to their full spec. Repalce them in the proper torque sequence obviously and do 2 or 3 steps untill your at the proper torque spec.

 

[Korndogg]

So what does everyone agree is the best method? It looks like take the stock bolts out one by one & replace it with a stud and torque it to the correct spec. Someone told me they thought you should crack all the stock bolts lose, then replace them one by one with the studs, but not torque them to their full spec. Repalce them in the proper torque sequence obviously and do 2 or 3 steps untill your at the proper torque spec.

replace them one by one and torque to factory specs first.. do not crack them all loose as you may break the gasket seal.. once you have them all back to factory spec then move them up to the ARP's torque gradually... that's what seems to be the safest to me

 

[bullettdsm]

replace them one by one and torque to factory specs first.. do not crack them all loose as you may break the gasket seal.. once you have them all back to factory spec then move them up to the ARP's torque gradually... that's what seems to be the safest to me

Agreed. Less chance of warping head or losing pressure on head gasket IMO.
MB

 

[RedEyeBanDiT]

Just wondering who else has done this and what their outcomes where with longevity ??

 

[BoostFrenzy]

Just wondering who else has done this and what their outcomes where with longevity ??

There are cobwebs on this thread dude....

But to answer, STM has done it on 2 of their cars with success. First was the "Ricer" Evo and then that black Talon. But, do so as the post above you states and as long as your HG is in good shape you should be fine.

 

[pboglio]

Blowing off the cobwebs Yep, holding up just fine. Best $89 or whatever I ever spent on my car, alternative was pulling the head which wasn't an option. One of the easier mods I've ever done to my car, just a little harder than pulling the spark plugs. You will probably need a new valve cover gasket kit (valve cover gasket, 4x spark plug gaskets, half moon rubber plug, etc) though while your in there.

 

[Dyesuperman]

Bringing this back from the dead again, but did you install them with the engine warm or did you let it sit a certain amount of time to relieve any pressure on the headgasket?

 

[BigBeans]

Bringing this back from the dead again, but did you install them with the engine warm or did you let it sit a certain amount of time to relieve any pressure on the headgasket?

Head studs should be done with the engine completely cooled.

 

[Dyesuperman]

Head studs should be done with the engine completely cooled.

Awesome I will be doing this later today and hopefully wont fill my reservoir and run at 213 degrees anymore when boosting...40 lbs/min does that I guess

 

[jeff24680]

I am also going to be doing this shortly with valve covers gaskets and what not. I am hoping this will allow me to run 25psi on my HX 35 safely instead of my current 20-22. How many other people have had similiar results and what were you trying to accomplish by doing this modification.

 

[jeff24680]

To all who think this is a complicated task.

It is not.


I recently took this on during my oil change yesturday. Let me tell you that it is not complicated at all. I don't really see how anyone would have any trouble.


List of Tools Used:

• Braker Bar
• Torque Wrench
• 12 Point 12MM Socket(for stock head bolts)
• 12 Point 1/2" Socket(For ARP Studs)
• ARP Lube
• 4" Drive extension
• Allen Wrench's(Dont Remember SIze)

Order of Installation

1. Drain Oil
2. Remove Valve Cover
3. Remove Stock Head Bolts(Breaker Bar, 12 Point 12mm Socket, 4" Drive Extension)
4. Lube Head Stud, Nut and washer.
5. Thread nut on to stud slightly and put the washer under hold the washer while you drop the stud into the hole.
6. Use Allen Wrench to get the Head Stud hand tight.
7. Once the stud is hand tight than grab your torque wrench, 4" drive, 12 point 1/2" socket. Set torque to 75ft/lbs. Then torque the nut/stud down.
8. Do the same for all 10 studs!
9. If you want after torquing them all down to 75ft/lbs I upped my torque wrench to 80ft/lbs and retorqued them in the order i installed them for good measure. I did not use loctite or anything of that sorts. Just the ARP lube.
10. Refill Oil

Side Notes
2 of the 10 stock bolts got stuck just before they came out of their hole. I wiggled them for about 3-5 minutes while turning them and they eventually came out, nothing crazy hard.