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ARP head stud install questions

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dsm_dan

20+ Year Contributor
31
0
Oct 20, 2002
Blackwood_NewJersey
I checked vfaq but it didnt have what i was looking for. One end of the studs has a shoulder. Now what side goes into teh head? I would think the NON shoulder side does. and how tight should i screw them into the head?

also how should i apply the moly lube? Evenly on all threads?

last but not least... what should i torques the nuts at? 80 - 100 in stock sequence 20 ft lbs at a time??

Just checking up with you guys so i do not have to do tis again.

(its a decked block (1990 6 bolt) and head, cometic 3 layer 85.5 mm .054 mls head gasket and 8.5:1 compression )
 
the side with the longer threads goes into the head. unless they are old they should also have an allen head side. that goes on top:)
 
Originally posted by peregrine
the side with the longer threads goes into the head. unless they are old they should also have an allen head side. that goes on top:)

allen head side... ARP STUDS, not stock head bolts. There is no "HEX" side.

(dsm Dan = 1gturd)
 
This is how I was told to do mine.

After the block is clean, screw a stud into each hole, then remove it and wipe it off. Spray some break cleaner down there as well, and repeat until no more dirt comes out with the stud. Once the holes are clean and dry, moly lube all over the threads that go into the block. Screw all of them in as tight as you can with your hands. THen lay a level across the top of the first row. Use an allen key to tighten the "taller" ones until they are all even. Repeat for second row. Set the HG/head on, and lube up the threads, washers, and nuts. tighten them down in increasing steps until the specified torque is reached, remembering to follow the torque sequence. once they are all torqued, you are done.
 
The MLS headgaskets are reusable. I reused my Mitsu MLS HG and the compresion was within 5 psi + or - before and after.
 
1gTURD said:
allen head side... ARP STUDS, not stock head bolts. There is no "HEX" side.

(dsm Dan = 1gturd)

Newer ARP headstuds have a hex in the end of the stud to ease installation of them into the block.
 

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First make sure that you cut the engine mount so you can drop the head on(www.vfaq.com shows you how). Also make sure u put the lubed washers into the head b4 dropping it on. You can reuse multi layer head gaskets just make sure that they are perfectly clean in every layer. sometimes coolant comes out when you pop the head and gets in the gasket.
 
This is how I do mine. I meticulously clean the mating surfaces (block and head) as well as the stud bores with a very volatile cleaner and make sure there's absolutely no debris and liquid in there. :) Screw the studs in there hand tight. Spray the HG with sealant set it on there then lube the threads. I then set the head on the block (with the washers already in place in the head) and install and tighten the nuts. I torque them in three steps: 20-40-82ft-lbs. After a few heat cycles I come back and torque everything to 100ft-lbs. I have never had any problems and my compression is always dead on. :thumb:

Here's a picture. --> http://mke7isiaho.com/Dsc00517.jpg

You can easily notice where I shaved off the mount flush so the head will sit on the block with ease. Don't forget to do this. ;)
 
To clean the head surface and piston tops I use the 3M "paint and rust stripper" wheel that can be installed on any drill. It pretty much removes any debris left by the old HG and leaves a nice surface for the new HG to bite. Make sure it's not the metal one. ;) For the cleaner, I don't recall the brand name but just go to your autostore and buy any decent surface cleaner. If it's not volatile that's fine just use an air compressor to blow that stuff out of the bores or invest in clean cotton rags to clean the bores. It just takes longer this way. I also use Copper permatex between the HG and head and block. This combination with the stock HG works very well. It was recommended to me by a more experienced DSM'er and he was dead on the money. :)
 
I was told by John at PSI to use acetone as it is the only cleaner that does not leave a residue. then just use a razorblade and a fine wire brush and have at it.
 
Scrymerr said:
I was told by John at PSI to use acetone as it is the only cleaner that does not leave a residue. then just use a razorblade and a fine wire brush and have at it.

Any inorganic solvent will work really. Acetone is just more preferable due to it's volatility.
 
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