Anyone Have Oil Filter That Comes Loose? [Merged 7-8]

[RacerXXX]

Anyone have oil filter that comes loose on 2nd gen AWD.

I was thinking If a safety wire, on the oil filter will keep it from coming loose.




Thanks,
Jim

 

[i1nk83]

another thing to look at if you still have balance shafts and have had a t.belt replacement recently. the balance shaft could be 180' out causing excess vibration. buddy had this happen to him. cost him him a motor....

 

[MrPikolo]

Mine was doing that to me as well. Here is what I did.

Drained the oil and took the filter off.

Took the center peice out of the filter housing.

Cleaned up the treads on both the center peice and the filter house(made sure there was no oil on it)

Applied a decent amount of locktite to the center peice

Installed it at the recommened torque(I can't remember the foot pounds)

Put filter back on and refilled oil.

That worked great for me, no more problems after that.

 

[hopwoodp]

I have been having some problems lately with my car - head gasket leak, signs of CW , etc. Well, I had my boost set at 8 psi and did everything I could to take things easy on my car.

I had to go downtown for a little while and on my way back I stop at this light on my base. It turns green, I go and went into second gear and boom! next thing you know a 50ft cloud of black smoke trailing behind me. My low oil light came on and I knew the motor was done for. I made it back to my shop and saw oil trailing where I drove and the engine commenced to puking its guts out.

I am about to go ahead and do a 6 bolt swap and do things properly on this one. What I dont understand is why I just changed my filter and oil(w royal purple!) and this happens again. Could an exhaust leak cause this? Too much head to the oil pump and filter or just internal engine problems? I am not too sure but, what I am sure about is a 6 bolt swap happening here very soon.

 

[SuperSlowGST]

I had this problem also. About 5 times. The hollow threaded pipe that the oil filter screws onto has a bolt on the middle of the thread (15/16" deepwell socket I believe will fit it). I called the Mitsubishi service dept and got a torque rating to tighen it to. Very low torque. At every oil change I just snug it back up because it seems loose just about every time. Be sure not to overtighten it. Hope this helps.

 

[trebornash]

Worked for me.Pulled my filter off and the threaded/spindle the filter screws onto was indeed loose.Was EZ to retighten.Haven't had any problems since.

 

[hopwoodp]

I feel you on that one but, Before it would leak from the mating surface of the filter to the housing. I have a greddy oil cooler as well. Like I said earlier, I think the heat from my exhaust has caused the housing to warp.

However, I will look into it and hope that this will solve any future issues I may have.
Thanks for the info guys!

 

[hopwoodp]

Well, heres what happened. I took the filter all the way off and torqued down the loose threaded fitting for the oil filter, checked the threads of both the filter and the housing and saw that they were both good to go to include no warping. I securly tightened down the filter and put 4 qts of oil in. As soon as I started that sucker up - oil shot out everywhere. I shut off the motor , tightened the filter nice and snug again - started it up - POP! again.... I am not entirely certain but, I am guessing that there is a problem with the oil pump itself (internal failure). Any inputs will help.

 

[arash15]

i recently went through the same situation. heres the solution:
1- drain the oil and remove the oil filter.
2- remove the stud
3- make sure you remove all the oil from the stud and clean it with brake cleaner. do the same with the threads that go into the oil filter housing. MAKE SURE THERE IS NO OIL ON THE THREADED SECTION! AT ALL! BONE DRY!
4- place red loctite on the stud and replace the gasket if its going bad (like 5 bucks from the dealer)
5- notice there is a small tab on the oil cooler. make sure this tab rests against the block.
6- now re-assemble everything and torque the stud to 33 foot pounds
7- allow the loctite to cure for 24 hours. (thats fully cured)
8- after the loctite is cured, refill the engine with oil and throw a oil filter back on.
9- start the car and feel happy that your car wont be sick anymore

 

[hopwoodp]

Thanks. =) I will give it a shot. Will this work the same way with the greddy oil cooler kit? When I ran the motor I heard what sounded like belts squealing. I know my belts are fine so what could it be?

 

[1SloColt]

i recently went through the same situation. heres the solution:
1- drain the oil and remove the oil filter.
2- remove the stud
3- make sure you remove all the oil from the stud and clean it with brake cleaner. do the same with the threads that go into the oil filter housing. MAKE SURE THERE IS NO OIL ON THE THREADED SECTION! AT ALL! BONE DRY!
4- place red loctite on the stud and replace the gasket if its going bad (like 5 bucks from the dealer)
5- notice there is a small tab on the oil cooler. make sure this tab rests against the block.
6- now re-assemble everything and torque the stud to 33 foot pounds
7- allow the loctite to cure for 24 hours. (thats fully cured)
8- after the loctite is cured, refill the engine with oil and throw a oil filter back on.
9- start the car and feel happy that your car wont be sick anymore

I've seen this work at times but DO NOT be rest assured that the filter won't back off again, cause I have seen this method done with the same problem as before. To FULLY cure the problem go to a 90 housing, or call up mitsugraveyard and go with a mighty max housing as my friend just did for like $30. His filter has come loose three times, loctited it twice.

 

[arash15]

I've seen this work at times but DO NOT be rest assured that the filter won't back off again, cause I have seen this method done with the same problem as before. To FULLY cure the problem go to a 90 housing, or call up mitsugraveyard and go with a mighty max housing as my friend just did for like $30. His filter has come loose three times, loctited it twice.

but the most common mistake i have seen with the method ive explained is that the threaded section still had oil residue on it which thus doesnt allow the loctite to work and completely defeats the purpsose of the entire procedure. thats why i was emphasisiing that the threaded section and the stud need to be BONE DRY, for this to work. the other solution would be to go for an air oil cooler. like the 1g setup, or go for an oil relocation kit as well

 

[destruckeclipse]

i recently went through the same situation. heres the solution:
1- drain the oil and remove the oil filter.
2- remove the stud
3- make sure you remove all the oil from the stud and clean it with brake cleaner. do the same with the threads that go into the oil filter housing. MAKE SURE THERE IS NO OIL ON THE THREADED SECTION! AT ALL! BONE DRY!
4- place red loctite on the stud and replace the gasket if its going bad (like 5 bucks from the dealer)
5- notice there is a small tab on the oil cooler. make sure this tab rests against the block.
6- now re-assemble everything and torque the stud to 33 foot pounds
7- allow the loctite to cure for 24 hours. (thats fully cured)
8- after the loctite is cured, refill the engine with oil and throw a oil filter back on.
9- start the car and feel happy that your car wont be sick anymore

I'll have to try this method. Seems my problem won't go away, but I have never done this to it.

 

[Ryan95tsiAWD]

I'll have to try this method. Seems my problem won't go away, but I have never done this to it.

I just kept tightening the oil filter back on until one day doing a 3rd gear pull at 6k when the oil light came on...pulled over and no filter to be found.

If you clean both pieces VERY well and use the blue loctite...it should hold. Did this over 2 years ago and still no problems. (of course the car has been down a while )

7- allow the loctite to cure for 24 hours. (thats fully cured)

this step is just as important as cleaning it!!!

 

[hopwoodp]

90 oil cooler.... Ok, well, I got the greddy oil cooler already. Could someone explain the difference between the two? I have a feeling that the oil pump itself if messed up. Not to mention that my crank is crawling and getting ready to start walking. So, yeah, I found a 6 bolt longblock for not too much and I am just going to swap that sucker over and replace some components and make sure things are done correctly on the install just to make sure I wont have these kind of problems.

So! If you guys would be able to tell me what many things could cause this problem and what parts usually fail before and due to this I think it would be helpful, not to just me but other people .

Here is one theary I have been told by some engineer budies I worked with:

1. The filter over time may become warped due to "excesive" heat causing the filter to "break" the seal to the filter housing in turn causing the leak. Now excesive heat could be from a bad downpipe gastket or just a crack in the pipe.

I think that this is least common to filter failer but, this would (in my opinion) affect the filters that have been on for awhile but, had some exhaust components leak causing heat to warp the filter housing. Besides, we all know how freaking hot it gets it that area.

If you agree or dont agree let me know.

 

[2GeNTSi]

Ah I thought I was the only one this happened to. Anyways today when I got back from San Jose, I took a look under my car to find the filter loose of course. I noticed oil on the pavement last week but didn't think anything of it. The car has been running fine though it was in that condition for at least a week because I checked it last Thursday. So I just tightened the filter back up, hopefully it doesn't undo itself.

Now that I think about it though, I do recall having to use a filter wrench last oil change so I might've tightened it too much the oil change before that. I never had to use a wrench to remove my filter so that might be the culprit. I'll just keep an eye on the pavement and hopefully it doesn't leak again while I'm in San Jose.

 

[krisj144]

or call up mitsugraveyard and go with a mighty max housing as my friend just did for like $30

what is this mighty max housing that you speak of? does it look like this?

 

[mopardwh]

My first DSM was a 2G GSX. Shortly after an oil change, I noticed the oil filter was leaking.
I tightened it and went about my way. A month or so later, my oil pressure dropped, and when I got out and checked I noticed the oil filter was backed off. I then realized it was a problem beyond just the oil filter gasket.

The oil filter bolt is known for coming loose on 2G turbo DSM's. This bolt also connects the oil cooler to the base plate. I have noticed several questions on this subject in the forums here. So since this issue can lead to serious damage, I will explain the easy fix. No matter if yours has leaked or not, I would address this issue before it is too late.

First, remove the oil filter and the oil filter bolt. This will dismount the oil cooler as well. Remove oil cooler hoses in order to clean cooler inside and out. Spray thoroughly with brake/parts cleaner. Replace oil cooler o-ring and install, pre-lubing the o-ring with bearing grease. Apply a generous coat of thread lock to the oil cooler side of the bolt. (NOT THE FILTER SIDE). Torque the bolt to specefications (29-33 ft. lbs.). Apply coat of oil to the filter gasket, and HAND TIGHTEN. Use 1/4 of a turn with a proper filter wrench ONLY if you feel you are that weak.

This will solve the problem with the oil filter coming loose.

 

[95EclipseGST]

I recently did an oil change and when i pulled the Oil filter off that 24mm bolt that is behind there was very loose. I then noticed that i had oil in my coolant bottle. I just had brand new heads and head gasket put on with ARP head studs less than 2,000 miles ago. Im flippin out over this, but i had heard of the overtightening of the oil filter causing oil in coolant. So im wondering if by that bolt being very loose, would that have caused this oil in the coolant problem?
The only other thing to mention is that my turbo doesnt spool for sh*t until 4700 rpm. My turbo doesnt have shaft play though, so im wondering if like a cracked turbo housing can be the cause of my problems, introducing oil into my coolant. Sorry for the seemingly newbie questions. Thanks for any help. This is on a 1g 1990 6 bolt engine.

 

[diablos991]

I have heard of the oil filter housing causing oil and coolant to mix. There is a good chance that could be your problem.

However, any time you are experiencing lack of power issues or you notice the fluids mixing, a compression test is never a bad idea. Especially since they are so simple and quick to perform.

As to your turbo spooling up late, there are a few things to check out. I would examine your exhaust manifold for cracks and make sure that it is bolted up tightly. Then i would examine that the turbine and compressor housings are in good condition with no visible cracks. Finally, I would perform a boost leak test and fix the leaks to ensure that things are in proper working condition.

 

[95EclipseGST]

The oil cooler problems i have heard of are from overtightening the oil filter and crushing the small honeycomb inside. But im wondering if that big bolt coming loose would cause the oil in coolant problem as well. Thanks for the inputs.

 

[BUCK]

"The 24mm bolt that is behind oil filter. If it came loose, can this cause oil in my.. ??"

NO - absolutely not - I don't see how the Oil Filter Bolt being loose can get Oil in Coolant because when you tightened the Oil Filter all was snug - The POS Water to Oil Cooler is an independent 'spool" that slides over that Bolt - That said there's NO WAY you should'nt have shitcanned that POS Oil to Water Cooler when you put the 6 Bolt in because that POS Water to Oil Cooler WILL DEFINITELY put Oil in your Coolant - At the very least shitcan the POS Water to Oil Cooler - Cut the Oil Filter Bolt off just long enough to mate properly with the Oil Filter & hard loctite it into Oil Filter Housing - Then BLANK OFF the damned Coolant Lines - & VERY soon get a REAL Air to Oil Cooler.

 

[95EclipseGST]

Thanks for the reply. I guess now i will be doing some research on where to get Air to oil cooler and vfaq on how its done. Thanks

 

[BUCK]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=220259

the Big Mavisky speaks...

& without the profanity - Until you get Air Cooler - Remove the OF Bolt & Cut it off short enough to mount Oil Filter STRAIGHT to the OFH - Loctite OF Bolt into the OFH - Remove the Water Cooler & just let it hang there by the coolant lines & when you restart car you may see the Coolant leak, then just jumper out or blank off the Coolant Lines & delete Water Cooler.

 

[95EclipseGST]

Ok, I do have a 1990 oil cooler. This link says use the 1990 version oil cooler and get the other parts for the install. The only thing is, How do i know if my 1990 oil cooler is not crushed from the oil filter being overtightened? My car is at the dealership right now to have the oil in coolant problem fixed. The only reason for that is that i had them install brand new heads and head gasket not more than 2000 miles ago, so i sent it back to them since its under warranty for that repair. This dealership sucks though being that since hurricane Katrina, all of the good mechanics left the area and were replaced by retards. I had them try and fix my boost leak while it was in the shop the first time and they didnt even know what a boost leak test was. Anyway, So let me get this straight. Should i just go buy a brand new 1990 oil cooler and then get all the air to oil cooler supplies just to be on the safe side? I know if i buy a brand new 1990 oil cooler from satan it will cost quite a bit. I have even called buschur racing and am thinking of driving it way up there from louisiana just to get my 6 bolt fixed. I have offered for any dsm wiseman to drive to new orleans and fix my car as well as posted on the street racing forums in my area for a good mechanic. I am completely at the end of the rope and have a ton of money wrapped up in my big brakes, suspension, etc etc...I would love to just have it fixed but dont know what else to do.

 

[aero_sallee]

Ok, I do have a 1990 oil cooler. This link says use the 1990 version oil cooler and get the other parts for the install. The only thing is, How do i know if my 1990 oil cooler is not crushed from the oil filter being overtightened? My car is at the dealership right now to have the oil in coolant problem fixed. The only reason for that is that i had them install brand new heads and head gasket not more than 2000 miles ago, so i sent it back to them since its under warranty for that repair. This dealership sucks though being that since hurricane Katrina, all of the good mechanics left the area and were replaced by retards. I had them try and fix my boost leak while it was in the shop the first time and they didnt even know what a boost leak test was. Anyway, So let me get this straight. Should i just go buy a brand new 1990 oil cooler and then get all the air to oil cooler supplies just to be on the safe side? I know if i buy a brand new 1990 oil cooler from satan it will cost quite a bit. I have even called buschur racing and am thinking of driving it way up there from louisiana just to get my 6 bolt fixed. I have offered for any dsm wiseman to drive to new orleans and fix my car as well as posted on the street racing forums in my area for a good mechanic. I am completely at the end of the rope and have a ton of money wrapped up in my big brakes, suspension, etc etc...I would love to just have it fixed but dont know what else to do.

The 1990 oil cooler can't be crushed by overtightening since its not even part of the OFH(oil filter housing). The 1990 OFH just has ports to allow the external oir/oil cooler to be plumbed in. You will have to have the air/oil cooler, lines, and the 1990 OFH.
Here is the vfaq with pics of the 1991+ cooler. http://vfaq.com/mods/oilcool.html