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Anyone gone 9's w/ stock trans?

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Doug118

Proven Member
147
19
Aug 9, 2015
providence, Rhode Island
Has anyone been that quick with a stock 5 speed transmission and tcase? If not, who are some of the quickest? And what clutch setup are they running? I'm trying to figure out how to make my stock gearbox last as long as possible with 700+whp.

Don't jump down my throat either. I know it'll only be a matter of time before it explodes but the longer it lasts, the better, especially since auto parts are getting more and more expensive by the minute
 
Doubtful. 700Whp is quite a bit of power and I would think even baby launches would kill the trans. My advice would be to put the LEAST amount of shock through your drivetrain. Meaning slipping the clutch on hard launches and easing into the power band while in gear.

Your clutch will depend on how much torque you are putting down however if you slip the clutch on hard launches enough times, it won't last very long. Twin disk setups are popular once achieving a certain number.
 
I would look into south bend for a clutch. If you make one little mistake launching or shifting that thing will be toast. I would start saving up for a built trans and t-case from tre or my buddy Brian Terhune, or whoever else maybe building dsm trans still. I know Richard33 pushed his stock fwd 5-speed pretty far like 600+ hp and 10's.
 
We have made over 800hp on two cars. The big difference is they are FWD. both cars are full time land speed cars, so there is no launching involved anymore. One car especially does a good job at spinning the power away.
 
Unless you're running a PPG/PAR gear set, we're all on stock transmissions. A "built" transmission is just a rebuilt transmission using the best available OEM parts.
 
The awd 5speed trans will strip teeth while in 3rd or 4th gear at that power level. There was recently a thread about beefier gears to run when your making 600+whp. Most agree the 90 and early 91 gears seem to be pretty strong but people making 700whp will for sure have the gears shot peened, detailed, ect. The transmission parts are getting difficult to find, If you have enough money to build a 9sec car you have the money to build a trans just wait a bit.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/jacks-trans-super-hd-gears-and-durability-s.493495/

It's frustrating watching all the people going out and destroying awd driveline parts....
 
The awd 5speed trans will strip teeth while in 3rd or 4th gear at that power level. There was recently a thread about beefier gears to run when your making 600+whp. Most agree the 90 and early 91 gears seem to be pretty strong but people making 700whp will for sure have the gears shot peened, detailed, ect. The transmission parts are getting difficult to find, If you have enough money to build a 9sec car you have the money to build a trans just wait a bit.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/jacks-trans-super-hd-gears-and-durability-s.493495/

It's frustrating watching all the people going out and destroying awd driveline parts....

That last part is not true having the money to go 9's so I can afford a trans. I'll have less than 5k into the car and it'll make 700. It helps to be able to fab stuff
 
What do you do instead of the 2-step? Do you just bring the Rpms up to launch and slip and go or? Do you not leave with any boost built? I know for my gst the 2-step helped cuz I could build boost and launch with about 10psi. I'm just starting out with my gvr4 and have a new trans coming. Curious to see what's the best method. Before I had link for the gvr4 I took it to the track. I launched at 6k and just slipped the clutch alittle and used the ebrake to hold me back. Seemed to launch really smooth that way :) shoot after sitting for 9 years in the bush and crap tires I still cut 1.8 60's and ran 13.7! Lol
 
Dang! 700 for less than 5k is really awesome, it seems usually that would cost around 10k. A built trans is gonna cost at least 2k so I see where your coming from. It still pains me to see these transmission straight up destroyed. I'm not moving away from these cars anytime soon so I hope I can still find driveline parts in another 10years. In 10years some of the awd transmission parts are gonna be worth a small fortune unless aftermarket support steps in.

If you fab you can at least weld your own center diff. Jacks and tre will do a build on just your gear sets pretty reasonable(or do a total teardown and have the gears treated separately). Then all you would need to do is tear down the trans and then shim for new bearings, just an idea.
 
Before the car gets tuned, I'll be installing a Magnus launch control device. I don't mind slipping the clutch by foot but it seems like a no-brainer to spend the $250 and not have to worry about it
 
Has anyone been that quick with a stock 5 speed transmission and tcase? If not, who are some of the quickest? And what clutch setup are they running? I'm trying to figure out how to make my stock gearbox last as long as possible with 700+whp.

Don't jump down my throat either. I know it'll only be a matter of time before it explodes but the longer it lasts, the better, especially since auto parts are getting more and more expensive by the minute

Yes. Back in the day Sean Glazer (Extreme Motorsports) was running 9s @150ish with the Talon he campaigned. IIRC, the car was in the 7xx hp range and weighed 2500lbs. They were destroying the factory (1G) trans & Tcase every few passes—that was for sure. And this was in an era when low-mileage unabused drivetrain parts were much more readily available.

Some relevant questions: What car do you have? How heavy is your car? What clutch? What suspension and is it dialed in for the launch? What tire? Peak torque and rpm? Mileage/cond. and year of stock trans being used? What kind of longevity are you looking for? What is your budget? These are factors that come into play here and some that you will want to give consideration to. There are great posts by bastarddsm and twicks69 (among others) on this forum that will give you insight on this subject matter.

Personally I would advise that you open up your case tighten the preloads and weld the center diff at the minimum as this will address some weakness while being effective from a cost/time/longevity standpoint. Also use high-quality trans fluid with frequent change intervals. Your driving characteristics will play a large role...you will find out, quickly I would imagine, how many passes it will last.
 
Yes. Back in the day Sean Glazer (Extreme Motorsports) was running 9s @150ish with the Talon he campaigned. IIRC, the car was in the 7xx hp range and weighed 2500lbs. They were destroying the factory (1G) trans & Tcase every few passes—that was for sure. And this was in an era when low-mileage unabused drivetrain parts were much more readily available.

Some relevant questions: What car do you have? How heavy is your car? What clutch? What suspension and is it dialed in for the launch? What tire? Peak torque and rpm? Mileage/cond. and year of stock trans being used? What kind of longevity are you looking for? What is your budget? These are factors that come into play here and some that you will want to give consideration to. There are great posts by bastarddsm and twicks69 (among others) on this forum that will give you insight on this subject matter.

Car is a 91 Eclipse with 101k miles. Won't know the exact weight until I finish building the car. At that point, I'll determine how much weight I will start removing. So far I've removed roughly 150lbs. That doesn't include 11lb wheels, 18lb Hoosier QTP tires, and lexan rear window. Trying to decide if I want to take a risk on running an ACT 2600 with 6 puck or just go straight to a twin disc. I'm waiting on the fuel setup before it gets tuned and I start testing. Longevity, well as long as possible obviously. It'll get more street time than it will track time (not street racing)
 
South bend bro!! Blows act away!

I looked into them. They're roughly $200 more than a act 2600 and the same price as a used twin disc. I'm sure they are a great product but I can't justify the price unless a bunch of people are making over 600whp with them

Edit: just discovered the TMZ Performance website and they're significantly cheaper than what I originally found. Kind of confusing since there are so many options but all have the same torque handling
 
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Most on here making big power are south bend or twin disc, or joining the auto craze LOL. Plus you can get the disc realigned for $100 when it wears out. I love mine and will only be using them on all my mitsu's from now on.:) and yes tmz is the place bro email them and see what they recommend to you. I guarantee you won't be disappointed with there products and customer Service. I'm using the b-series disc and ss/x pp with a act flywheel on my gvr4. Planning to push its to the limits soon :)
 
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Wants to go 9s... worried about money. Ugh. :ohdamn:

Answer to your question, yes, people have gone 9s with a bone stock manual trans. We have a local here in the Maryland area that was going 9.5s in his AWD Mirage with a bone stock 1G AWD transmission and Quartermaster twin-disk. But, like others have said, the transmissions didn't last long at all. He finally went PPG dogbox and went 9.2 his first event with it and 9.0 last weekend.
 
Wants to go 9s... worried about money. Ugh. :ohdamn:

Answer to your question, yes, people have gone 9s with a bone stock manual trans. We have a local here in the Maryland area that was going 9.5s in his AWD Mirage with a bone stock 1G AWD transmission and Quartermaster twin-disk. But, like others have said, the transmissions didn't last long at all. He finally went PPG dogbox and went 9.2 his first event with it and 9.0 last weekend.

No where did I say I was worried about money. I said I couldn't justify spending twin disc money on a single disc clutch. Being cheap and spending money wisely are 2 very different things

And yes the car will get a 9 second pass for $5k. The running and driving 91 gsx stands me $500 after I parted out all of the aftermarket turbo stuff that the car came with
 
I know everyone is all twin disc this and twin disc that these days, but back in the day shep went 8s on a street disc, glazer did it on a 6 puck, Todd m and mike rizz went 10.0 on a 2900/street disc, ect. The twin goes from nothing to locked up real quick. I broke a bunch of stuff with it, and have gone faster and broke nothing without it.

The Magnus device is a neat idea, but it's way way to sensitive. plus it will be super sensitive to temperature changes. I played with it, before I did a clutch tamer. At one setting it could be anywhere from best 60' Ever to broken shit. All based on how long you set on the 2 step, and the temp of the clutch fluid, and a million other things.
 
Car is a 91 Eclipse with 101k miles. Won't know the exact weight until I finish building the car. At that point, I'll determine how much weight I will start removing. So far I've removed roughly 150lbs. That doesn't include 11lb wheels, 18lb Hoosier QTP tires, and lexan rear window. Trying to decide if I want to take a risk on running an ACT 2600 with 6 puck or just go straight to a twin disc. I'm waiting on the fuel setup before it gets tuned and I start testing. Longevity, well as long as possible obviously. It'll get more street time than it will track time (not street racing)

When I ask about what kind of longevity you are looking for…what I am getting at is the realistic timeframe that is acceptable to you (cost/benefit over time) regarding replacement. In the end, you need to decide whether you want to change out transmissions much more frequently than you do engine oil with a 9 sec 700+awhp setup.

The Achilles heel of this platform has always been the vulnerable driveline and while the trans gears, for one example, can take a lot more than any Mitsu engineer ever thought they could, there are aftermarket parts, OEM combinations and modifications that can be done to make them much more durable than what was inside your now tired trans and Tcase from the factory.

Understand with your setup the lifespan of the untouched 101k stock trans/Tcase will likely be measured in seconds at the strip. Once you get your car running, one good pass on those QTPs going for a 9sec slip is all it takes—even when slipping the clutch and modulating properly like Shep did. When looking at Shep & Glazer this is evident, their drivetrain was ‘reasonably’ holding together when they were in the 10s but when they dipped into the 9s, issues with the trans and Tcase began to surface and as a result only lasted a few passes at best.

You may be ok with this. But I wouldn’t know, so I asked you about longevity. It’s important to note that these failures are largely fully-catastrophic due to being severely overloaded. Don’t expect to simply replace your Tcase output shaft or 3rd gear or put in a new thrust washer on the Cdiff when it lets go—they will be a total loss. A solid hub twin disk or pucked clutch will magnify the stresses involved and diminish lifespan further. Street miles are quite tough on these components too, ask me how I know.

Once you figure out your setup in general and decide on what you want out of your transmission in particular, members on this forum can assist you further. Good luck with your build and I hope you get what you want out of it and enjoy driving it when it’s done.
 
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