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Any way to find out actual availability of OEM parts?

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XC92

Proven Member
1,570
357
Jul 22, 2020
Queens, New_York
I'm ready to place an order for several dozen OEM parts I'll need to rebuild my trans and other assemblies on my Talon, and while they're all listed as available on several Mitsubishi dealers' web sites, from experience I know that some of these items are no longer available. I sent them all emails with a list of all the parts using Mitsubishi part #'s, and followed them up with calls to their parts departments. But I've yet to hear back from most of them.

So I'm wondering if there are other ways of finding out, such as that program you used to be able to download and install on your PC that's basically an online parts catalog. Is it still available and working and does it have current pricing and availability, or is it literally just a parts catalog that has nothing to do with current availability?

Or am I just going to have to place an order and wait till they get back to me to find out? After several weeks of tearing things apart, cleaning parts, consulting with site experts and figuring out what parts I need to replace, while my Talon's on jack stands and unusable, I'm hoping to start putting everything back together and am starting to get antsy.

Btw are some Mitsubishi shadier than others? I've read Google reviews of some of the ones I'm thinking of ordering from and there are comments that claim that they got charged for wrong parts and they had to pay return shipping and a restocking fee. I can name these dealers here but am not sure if it's appropriate.

And yes, I know, I should order to the extent possible from site supporting vendors, and intend to do so, but some of these parts are kind of obscure and I'm not sure that vendors carry them, like say a trans select lever bushing or exhaust bolt.
 
Tim, I just sent you a parts list to your business email. Thanks.

Two more questions though.

One, about choosing between the thick and shallow 1st gear synchro, it looks like I have the shallow one, MD742419, so I’ll probably get that. But I see that while it has 3 groupings of teeth going around with gaps in-between, the thicker one, MD745477, has teeth going around the entire circumference with no gaps. Why have it either way, what are the pros and cons of each style, and does it matter for my situation? I only just now noticed this. Is the no-gap style "tougher" or more "forgiving" of bad shifts?

And two, stupid question, but should I replace the original release bearing clip? It's just a $2 part so it's not about money, just curious if these are supposed to be replaced when replacing a clutch as the original still seems in decent shape.

Oh, and do any of the trans internal, case, pressure plate, flywheel or other drivetrain bolts need to be replaced if they otherwise look ok, or just clean and use threadlock when putting things back together?
 
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Regarding the synchros, and the number of teeth on them, I think the reason they tried lower synchro tooth counts was to try and get faster shifts but I haven't seen one outperform another really with it.

With the MD706185 TOB clip, well, look closely at the friction areas for wear, like you said, it is a $2.00 part that I have seen fail numerous times. Do you want to pull a trans to replace that for a failure?

For fasteners to replace:
*Pressure plate and flywheel bolts if used showing any wear. I have a race car making 6x the power and replace them every time because it is part of my service interval program. For a stock car and not showing damage or any sort of wear, just reuse them.
*End shaft nuts are replaced every time.
*Roll pins are replaced every time.
*Crush washers replaced if deformed for reverse idler rail retainer bolt and shift selector cage retainer bolt, and then replaced every time for reverse lockout and reverse sensor switches, fill and drain plugs. That's what I do.

Only bolts I use threadlocker on are the front diff, center diff, and flywheel bolts. I use a wicking threadlocker on the detent plugs.
 
So I'll get the shallow synchro since that's what I have in there now, and I was going to replace the TOB clip but was just curious if it's an occasional fail point.

I was going to replace the staked nuts (in fact I already bought them last year), roll pins, fill/drain plug, reverse switch & restrict ball bolt crush washers (already got 'em) and interlock plate bolt and washer, along with the reverse bolt washer (I assume the current bolt can stay, it looks fine). So I'm good there.

The FW/PP bolts look ok so I'll just reuse.

No need to replace case bolts if they look ok? No threadlocker either, just clean them & RTV between case sections, properly applied?

Last thing, poppet bolts, springs & balls. If they look ok, clean & reuse?
 
The case bolts are fine to reuse if they are not severely corroded and structurally compromised. No threadlocker. Use permatex ultra grey or ultra black RTV. 29ft/lbs for case section bolts.

The detent plugs, springs and balls should be reused, there should be nothing wrong with yours as there nearly never are issues with those components, especially on a functional transmission like yours.
 
Thanks. I think the springs are discontinued anyway, just checking.

The case bolts have some old RTV and minor rust and aluminum oxide but nothing out of the ordinary so I think they can be cleaned and reused, and if not, I'll get replacements.
 
Clean the corrosion from the case section bolt holes. I use a metal bristle brush attachment on my drill.
 
I started doing just that, using a cheap HF hand brush that just fits, plus cleaning the case sections themselves, inside and out, and the flat mating parts as well.

I'll probably paint the exterior. I know you use Aluma-Blast (or whatever it's called), but I cheaped out and got Duplicolor engine spray paint in aluminum color. It's not like I'll see the trans that much once it's in.

I'll bolt the case together w/o parts in it, seal up all the holes, and paint the whole thing. I assume that it's ok to paint the bellhousing part where the clutch & fork go, so long as I cover all openings to the inside of the case?

Should I prime or is just the paint ok? If I prime, is engine primer ok, like Rustoleum? Got some already.

Try and let me know those parts availability & prices. I'd like to place an order ASAP so I can get started on the rebuild hopefully next week. Thanks again.
 
I am waiting on Mitsu for availability. They sent me prices, but no availability or ETA.
 
Do you have anything in stock and ready to ship? I can always order the parts you need to get from Mitsu directly, which I assume would get to me faster.

Btw that mod you do on center diffs so they can accept Torrington bearings, not something I really need for my stock situation, right?
 
I need quantities from you for all the part numbers you sent over.

see your email.
 
Emailing my business is the easiest. [email protected]

Instead of MD742614, just use MD746435 which is the updated double synchro for 2nd gear.

The MD747643 has none in USA PDC's (parts distribution center) and is a Japan order. MD747643 for people not knowing what it is; it is the 1/2 hub and slider with thick MD745477 1st synchro and MD746435 2nd double synchro, no springs, no keys.

MD742419 is the shallow 1st gear synchro. The MD745477 is the thicker 1st gear synchro. The difference between them is when using additional springs in the hub and slider, you can only fit one spring on the MD745477 side, while you can fit double springs with the MD742419 synchro. The double synchro MD746435 can fit two springs if you are doubling them up.

For the 1/2 hub and slider just use MD749414 and order the synchros, then MD742445 springs (x2 are typically used in stock applications, x4 can be used when wanting to put more spring pressure on the keys in conjunction with the MD742419 synchro), then MD742775 keys (x3)
Hi, I`ve bought a GSX 93 and I need to change the 2nd, 3rd and 4th synchros.
I`ve added photos of my parts, the 2nd is the MD742614 and the 3rd and 4th are MD742536, with 3 groupings of 8 teeths going around with gaps in-between.
You said that is possible to change 2nd for MD746435 and 3rd/4th for MD745479, but it has teeth going around the entire circumference with no gaps.

Is it realy possible to use? Is it necessary to do any adptation or change any other part?

I thank you and I apologize, I'm from Brazil and my English is not so good. There are very few Eclipse GSX here and the parts are very hard to find. If you have a good site to indicate where to buy the parts, I would also like to.

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Hi, I`ve bought a GSX 93 and I need to change the 2nd, 3rd and 4th synchros.
I`ve added photos of my parts, the 2nd is the MD742614 and the 3rd and 4th are MD742536, with 3 groupings of 8 teeths going around with gaps in-between.
You said that is possible to change 2nd for MD746435 and 3rd/4th for MD745479, but it has teeth going around the entire circumference with no gaps.

Is it realy possible to use? Is it necessary to do any adptation or change any other part?

I thank you and I apologize, I'm from Brazil and my English is not so good. There are very few Eclipse GSX here and the parts are very hard to find. If you have a good site to indicate where to buy the parts, I would also like to.

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Yes, it is completely interchangeable with no modification.

If you want the parts, just email me at [email protected] and I can give a quote and order and ship the parts.

Do you have anything in stock and ready to ship? I can always order the parts you need to get from Mitsu directly, which I assume would get to me faster.

Btw that mod you do on center diffs so they can accept Torrington bearings, not something I really need for my stock situation, right?
I'm assuming you purchased elsewhere since you never responded with quantities needed to order after I gave you the parts quote.
 
Sorry for not getting back sooner. Yes, I ended up buying most of the parts from an online dealer based in Tallahassee, FL, mostly because the car's been on the street on stands for over a month now and I really need to get this all done and the car back on the ground and operable again, and they had a really fast turnaround.

I ordered on Monday and should have them tomorrow or Friday. I solicited several vendors and local and online dealers and they were faster by over a week.

I was starting to get nervous about the car being in the same spot on the street for so long and not moveable, with nosy neighbors and young hot modders continually checking it out (and the entire exhaust pipe on the ground with the cat just asking to be cut out and stolen), and a long overdue street repaving that they never announce more than a day or two in advance, requiring all vehicles to be moved.

They didn't have everything I need so I still need to place another order or two elsewhere, e.g. Competition Clutch fork/fulcrum, SS clutch line, shifter base and trans select and shift lever bushings, etc., and some non-driveline parts I need. And, most likely, new shims and lock rings if the ones I have aren't the right thickness.

But vendors, yourself included, generally have those in stock so getting them to me shouldn't take that long compared to ordering OEM parts from a dealer, waiting for them to get them, shipping them to you, then shipping them to me, etc. I'm hoping to get the stacks pressed back together and do the solder thing this weekend, and know which if any shims and lock rings I need and be ready to order them.
 
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