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Mike98GS-T

Mike98GS-T

10+ Year Contributor
98
0
May 22, 2008
Holland, Michigan
I just got the car to Michigan. I drove it 800+ miles before this happened.



7/14/09-

The car made the trip from Fredricktown Ohio to Holland Michigan no problem on Saturday evening. I left from Fredricktown about 8:30 and got to Holland around 12:30, so I made good time. The car ran like a top, the engine sounded perfect. Although I do have an exhaust leak and the car was not tuned, it was a good trip.




7/13/09-
The car has been running decent. It has not been tuned and the exhaust leak is getting worse. I ordered a new 7cm Manifold to Turbo gasket and plan on replacing it as soon as it get's to my house. I met up with a friend of mine here in Michigan and he agreed to meet me and try to tune my car. I got to Grand Rapids, turned the car off and I was waiting for a call from him to know exactly where we were going to meet up. He called me up and told me to get to a certain street, I went to try and start the car up and it wouldn't start. The car IS getting spark and it IS getting fuel. I am highly doubtful that it jumped time because I was not even rev'ving the car over 3,000 RPM's, kinda just "puttin'" it around. He came to where I was stranded in Grand Rapids and we hooked his laptop up to my car and what do ya know... It connected right now and I uploaded my tune to my ECU. Obviously leading me to believe that my DSMLink adapter and cable are probably bad. Tried to start the car up, still no start. I went over to AutoZone and grabbed new spark plugs because I had pulled out the old ones and they looked pretty bad, full of carbon, most likely fouled out. AutoZone did not have NGK BPR7ES plugs... apparently they do not make them anymore? So I got these "Autolight Platinum AP63" plugs. The lady that was working at AutoZone said they come "pre-gaped" out of the box, so I pop'ed them right in the car and it STILL wouldn't fire. I don't think they are gaped correctly and I could have SWORN that someone once said that "our car's won't even run without the correct plug" once before. I checked everything, under hood fuses, under dash fuses, things plugged in correctly, spark and fuel. Also, would a big enough exhaust leak cause the car not to start? Because when I was driving to Grand Rapids (which is about a 35 minute drive) like I said, the exhaust leak got worse. It got the point where the car was kinda "bogging out/jerking around". It's hard to explain, if I tried to use and boost, or got close to 5 vacuum the car would bog and stutter, if I let of the gas and eased it up to speed then the car was fine. I'm lost on the situation, I don't really know what to do. Now that I moved up to Michigan, I don't have my dad to help me with the car. So I'm really relying on the help that is provided from other users on this forum. Help me get this car back running again guys, I really need my car. :down:

Thanks
 
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Mike98GS-T said:
I just got the car to Michigan. I drove it 800+ miles before this happened.



7/14/09-

The car made the trip from Fredricktown Ohio to Holland Michigan no problem on Saturday evening. I left from Fredricktown about 8:30 and got to Holland around 12:30, so I made good time. The car ran like a top, the engine sounded perfect. Although I do have an exhaust leak and the car was not tuned, it was a good trip.




7/13/09-
The car has been running decent. It has not been tuned and the exhaust leak is getting worse. I ordered a new 7cm Manifold to Turbo gasket and plan on replacing it as soon as it get's to my house. I met up with a friend of mine here in Michigan and he agreed to meet me and try to tune my car. I got to Grand Rapids, turned the car off and I was waiting for a call from him to know exactly where we were going to meet up. He called me up and told me to get to a certain street, I went to try and start the car up and it wouldn't start. The car IS getting spark and it IS getting fuel. I am highly doubtful that it jumped time because I was not even rev'ving the car over 3,000 RPM's, kinda just "puttin'" it around. He came to where I was stranded in Grand Rapids and we hooked his laptop up to my car and what do ya know... It connected right now and I uploaded my tune to my ECU. Obviously leading me to believe that my DSMLink adapter and cable are probably bad. Tried to start the car up, still no start. I went over to AutoZone and grabbed new spark plugs because I had pulled out the old ones and they looked pretty bad, full of carbon, most likely fouled out. AutoZone did not have NGK BPR7ES plugs... apparently they do not make them anymore? So I got these "Autolight Platinum AP63" plugs. The lady that was working at AutoZone said they come "pre-gaped" out of the box, so I pop'ed them right in the car and it STILL wouldn't fire. I don't think they are gaped correctly and I could have SWORN that someone once said that "our car's won't even run without the correct plug" once before. I checked everything, under hood fuses, under dash fuses, things plugged in correctly, spark and fuel. Also, would a big enough exhaust leak cause the car not to start? Because when I was driving to Grand Rapids (which is about a 35 minute drive) like I said, the exhaust leak got worse. It got the point where the car was kinda "bogging out/jerking around". It's hard to explain, if I tried to use and boost, or got close to 5 vacuum the car would bog and stutter, if I let of the gas and eased it up to speed then the car was fine. I'm lost on the situation, I don't really know what to do. Now that I moved up to Michigan, I don't have my dad to help me with the car. So I'm really relying on the help that is provided from other users on this forum. Help me get this car back running again guys, I really need my car. :down:

Thanks
Click to expand...

800 miles? Nice. Ok, are you sure it's leaking from the exhaust manifold turbo gasket?
Are you sure it's a pre turbo exhaust leak?

And you need to run NGK BPR6's gapped @ .028. Get rid of the Autolite plugs. NGK's are the way to go on DSM's.
 
Upvote0
do a compression test, you would be amazed at how these cars can jump time in a matter of seconds, i had a 90 gst drove good parked it next day went to start it, nothing what was the result, bent exhaust valves, try some starting fluid spray it directly into the t-body and try, it should fire off.
 
Upvote0
mindset said:
800 miles? Nice. Ok, are you sure it's leaking from the exhaust manifold turbo gasket?
Are you sure it's a pre turbo exhaust leak?

And you need to run NGK BPR6's gapped @ .028. Get rid of the Autolite plugs. NGK's are the way to go on DSM's.
Click to expand...

Ya. At night time I had the hood pop'ed open and I could see faint flames coming from that gasket. BPR6's? I was using 7's before.
 
Upvote0
mindset said:
Yes, get 6's! And really? Are your turbo bolts tightened down all the way and torqued to spec?
Click to expand...

Yes they are. I bought a PaceSetter manifold and it came with these like... Cardboard gaskets that for some reason we used. I was thinking that maybe that leak was just so bad that the car won't start, but I doubt that's the problem.
 
Upvote0
Mike98GS-T said:
Yes they are. I bought a PaceSetter manifold and it came with these like... Cardboard gaskets that for some reason we used. I was thinking that maybe that leak was just so bad that the car won't start, but I doubt that's the problem.
Click to expand...

Oh I see. Are you hitting full boost and at what RPM?
 
Upvote0
mindset said:
Oh I see. Are you hitting full boost and at what RPM?
Click to expand...

Nope. The car has barely seen 5 psi since I put the new crank in 1000+ miles ago. When the car wasen't tuned, it would not allow me to go above 4,000 RPM's. Almost like it was in "limp mode" or something. Most of my shifts recently have been 3,000/3,500 RPM's, pretty much babying it until it's tuned.
 
Upvote0
Mike98GS-T said:
Nope. The car has barely seen 5 psi since I put the new crank in 1000+ miles ago. When the car wasen't tuned, it would not allow me to go above 4,000 RPM's. Almost like it was in "limp mode" or something. Most of my shifts recently have been 3,000/3,500 RPM's, pretty much babying it until it's tuned.
Click to expand...

Oh ok, about the not starting thing, I would definitely check the timing.
 
Upvote0
I'm going to get new plugs, gap them correctly and try it. Maybe some intercooler piping came out somewhere so I will check that as well. It's probably going to come down to timing.
 
Upvote0
Got some NGK BPR6ES Plugs. They came out of the box like .035, so I grabbed a spark plug gap tool from NAPA while I was there and some starting fluid. The battery was almost completely dead last night after I spent time trying to crank it over in the parking lot I was stranded in, so it's on the battery charger right now. I'll pull those old plugs out in a little bit, spray some starting fluid in there and put the new plugs in. My guess is the car won't start because the belt probably jumped a tooth or something of that sort.

BTW: NAPA is the only Auto parts store that now has NGK Plugs. I tried AutoZone and Advanced Auto and neither have NGK Plugs. Just a little FYI.
 
Upvote0
I pulled the old Autolight plugs and they were gaped to like .36. I gaped the NGK's to .28 like I was told, sprayed some starting fluid in the cylinders, put the new plugs in and it still didn't start.

Timing is most likely off.
 
Upvote0
I reset the mechanical timing and it still didn't fire. When we go to turn it over, it turns over real slow. I'm thinking that maybe the battery is going bad, or already is bad. I really don't know what to do now. I had my doubts about the timing, but in the back of my head I was thinking that maybe, just maybe it'd start up.

Dunno what to do now.
 
Upvote0
There is NO set specific spark plug for a 4G63. Ive run all kinds and had the 2nd best results using a HOTTER Motorcraft plug. The best ones ive ever used were from China and did not have the traditional electrode for the spark to jump across. The spark traveled all the way to the side of the plug and MAN did these make a HUGE difference in power. The major drawbacks were, they fouled out easily (you had to get them really hot to self clean) and they only came from China and could not be bought anywhere else.
 
Upvote0
What about the crank positioning sensor? Do they go bad? And as a result, will it make the car not start?
 
Upvote0
Mike98GS-T said:
What about the crank positioning sensor? Do they go bad? And as a result, will it make the car not start?
Click to expand...

Highly unlikely, only time ive heard of one failing is when the disc takes it out when the crank walks. See if you get a CEL with the key in the run position (wait a few mins for it to go off, then come back on, that would indicate if sensors are bad).

Also, get that battery charged or replaced.
 
Upvote0
only thing i can say is, pull the plugs out, plug the spark plugs back into the boots and drop them into the plug holes, but dont screw them in, and crank the car, they should jump if you have compression.

disconnect the ptu and coil first.
 
Upvote0
Mr PopUps said:
Highly unlikely, only time ive heard of one failing is when the disc takes it out when the crank walks. See if you get a CEL with the key in the run position (wait a few mins for it to go off, then come back on, that would indicate if sensors are bad).

Also, get that battery charged or replaced.
Click to expand...

Interesting. I guess I could buy one, see if it does anything and if not, just return it. I was leaning on the battery. Even after I let the car sit with a charger on it, it cranks over weak. I tried to use jumper cables and with those connected it cranks over weak, or slow, as well. I did a compression test two weeks ago before all this happened and the numbers were 145 across the board. I was not beating the car, I don't think I did any damage to the motor.
 
Upvote0
Upvote0
OK, I just checked the compression using that method you told me to try. All the plugs pop'ed up as soon as my friend started cranking the car. So I take it I have compression. So I have fuel, spark, timing and compression. The battery has to be bad.
 
Upvote0
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