alternator going? i need help..

[BabyTurbo_GST]

ok everyone i'm new to the site but i owned my dsm for about a year .. i'm not sure if this is my alternator going but some help on to finding my problem will be appreciated. well the other day i had to stop at a few places and when i was about to go home i went to start my car and nothing was on. accessories did not go on and the car would not start. before this my belt off my alternator would squeak constantly after i replaced the belt because my old one used to squeak and it eventually snapped on me while driving home and i lost my ps, battery light came on and such so i bought a new belt n it went away after i tightened it up again and the squeaking stopped for about 2 weeks than started to come back and would stop squeaking after the car warmed up? but its weird my car wouldnt start that day, i had someone jump start me and now it starts no problem but the belt squeaks for a quick second when i start it and then it seems fine? im worried to drive it because i just don't want it to die out on me when im not somewhere close to home. i read somewhere if your leaking power steering fluid that can cause an alternator to go is that true? i have a small ps fluid leak but i dont think its a big deal.. someone help im so confused thanks

 

[92AWDHX40]

Sounds like its too loose, the belt and its not charging your battery.

 

[BabyTurbo_GST]

but every time i tighten it, it somehow gets loose again? i was close to ordering an alternator from dsm graveyard but i wanted to see if you guys know what it could be.. that sounds like it could be it though

 

[M5talon]

Ok here's a quick an easy way to find out your alternato is bad. Turn on your car go into the engine bay and disconect the positive side or your battery. If your car shuts off then you have a bad alternator. Or you have you checked the Fuses by the battery it might be blown.

 

[BabyTurbo_GST]

i was actually going to do that today but its crazy weather with snow by me right now.. i actually just replaced one on the fuses on the battery because the older one was bad i did this when i got the new battery.. but i will try that as soon as the weather lightens up.. i just wanna get all the possible things that can be causing this to happen and try em out to see whats wrong. i appreciate all your help

would there be anything else that can possibly be causing this?

 

[M5talon]

You can also check the bolt that you use to tighten the alternator to the little bracket and make sure its not stripped that might be the reason it keeps on comming loose, i now cause this happened to.

 

[BabyTurbo_GST]

thanks for the help, i also read if your leaking power steering fluid that can cause an alternator to drain? is that true?

 

[viprez586]

i was actually going to do that today but its crazy weather with snow by me right now.. i actually just replaced one on the fuses on the battery because the older one was bad i did this when i got the new battery.. but i will try that as soon as the weather lightens up.. i just wanna get all the possible things that can be causing this to happen and try em out to see whats wrong. i appreciate all your help

There is no fuse on the battery. Unless you mean the alternator fuse...then yes, if that is blown then its physically impossible for your alternator to charge your battery.

There are three bolts on the alternator. There is a through bolt that is on the bottom side, this is what the alternator pivots on. Next there is the brace/lock bolt that allows the alternator to slide along the bracket. Finally there is the tension bolt- self explanatory.

Loosen all three.
First tighten the alternator brace/lock nut while putting some(not all just enough) tension on belt with it being aligned and ready to go.
Next tighten your pivot bolt on the bottom.
Finally adjust the tension bolt.
With all this being said the brace bolt and pivot bolt do not need to be REALLY tight initially, you want the alternator to move with the tension your applying to the belt.
Once you have gotten the proper tension, tighten the pivot bolt and brace bolt to your likings, run the engine for 5 minutes, then re-check tension.

Just so you know what tight is here is the factory torque specs.
Pivot bolt(bottom)= 15-18Ft. Lbs.
Brace/lock bolt= 9-11Ft. Lbs.
Honestly mine are probably tighter then this, but it's all how you feel about it.

 

[92AWDHX40]

Have you called around for one in youre area, you get lifetime warranties with new ones. Even though jon is my buddy at the graveyard.

 

[viprez586]

thanks for the help, i also read if your leaking power steering fluid that can cause an alternator to drain? is that true?

Yes. I had some leak on mine, maybe like 1/4 of a quart. I sprayed it down with brake clean and let it sit for a while and it still killed my alternator.

If you decide to replace it, Order the O-rings from your dealership (it will be a kit), or goto napa with the fitting + O-rings and replace them all. I went to napa and did this, works great.
Just don't break that fitting cause it sucks! If it still leaks, search about it, i saw a thread floating around about some guys using crush washers...but really all you need is those four O-rings in that fitting on top of the pump.

DO this is you get a new alternator and while your at it, order one from a Galant VR4 that is a 90amp and replace your alternator fuse with a 100amp fuse.

I just noticed your 2g...well I'm sure some 2g guru will chime in to help you out, but this will get you started with ideas.

 

[VETTE_50_TH]

The best thing to do, without going any taking anything apart, is verify the battery has 12V off, and the terminals are clean. Then tighten down the through bolt and make sure the alternator bracket is not able to move. Finally, start the car, and verify the alternator is putting out 14V or so and the battery has 14V. Thats the easiest way to test that the alternator is giving the charge, the car is not be grounded somewhere, and the battery is charging. Try that FIRST, and then take stuff apart.

James

 

[beyondspexj]

Yes. I had some leak on mine, maybe like 1/4 of a quart. I sprayed it down with brake clean and let it sit for a while and it still killed my alternator.

If you decide to replace it, Order the O-rings from your dealership (it will be a kit), or goto napa with the fitting + O-rings and replace them all. I went to napa and did this, works great.
Just don't break that fitting cause it sucks! If it still leaks, search about it, i saw a thread floating around about some guys using crush washers...but really all you need is those four O-rings in that fitting on top of the pump.

DO this is you get a new alternator and while your at it, order one from a Galant VR4 that is a 90amp and replace your alternator fuse with a 100amp fuse.

I just noticed your 2g...well I'm sure some 2g guru will chime in to help you out, but this will get you started with ideas.

im glad i read this! my alt just died on my earlier this week and my power steering pump is leaking as well. do you have the part number for the o-rings??

 

[BabyTurbo_GST]

ok, i know you have to put it to the battery to check its volts.. but how do i check how many volts the alternator is putting up? the same way? thanks

 

[delta448]

This may not apply to your car, but one common problem these cars seem to have is the stock crank pulley/damper separating.

The crank pulley has a layer of heavy rubber between the outer grooved area and the inner section which bolts to the crank. This rubber layer, which is primarily for dampening purposes, eventually fails and the pulley becomes two metal pieces with a little rubber in between on each piece. When this happens the accessories driven by the pulley don't work until the friction between the two halves is enough to create heat and soften the rubber so that it grabs and starts partially driving the accessories. It however still slips -almost like a burnt clutch, and the accessories aren't driven as well at speed (because it cools off) or under hard engine acceleration, where the rapid change in engine speed is too much for the failed pulley to keep up with.

It's worth checking out, if the pulley has indeed failed, replace it soon whether it's the main issue or not. The engine relies on it to dampen the crank, lose its function and the bearings will be taking a much harsher punishment.

 

[VETTE_50_TH]

ok, i know you have to put it to the battery to check its volts.. but how do i check how many volts the alternator is putting up? the same way? thanks

Positive end goes to the output of the alternator, negative connects by touching ground-aka, the chassis.

James

 

[BabyTurbo_GST]

This may not apply to your car, but one common problem these cars seem to have is the stock crank pulley/damper separating.

The crank pulley has a layer of heavy rubber between the outer grooved area and the inner section which bolts to the crank. This rubber layer, which is primarily for dampening purposes, eventually fails and the pulley becomes two metal pieces with a little rubber in between on each piece. When this happens the accessories driven by the pulley don't work until the friction between the two halves is enough to create heat and soften the rubber so that it grabs and starts partially driving the accessories. It however still slips -almost like a burnt clutch, and the accessories aren't driven as well at speed (because it cools off) or under hard engine acceleration, where the rapid change in engine speed is too much for the failed pulley to keep up with.

It's worth checking out, if the pulley has indeed failed, replace it soon whether it's the main issue or not. The engine relies on it to dampen the crank, lose its function and the bearings will be taking a much harsher punishment.

umm i dont think it maybe that for me, because my car never turned off while i was driving or ripping the car

 

[BabyTurbo_GST]

Positive end goes to the output of the alternator, negative connects by touching ground-aka, the chassis.

James

thanks

 

[delta448]

It wouldn't shut off as long as your battery was still hooked up.

The alternator and power steering pump not working are things you might not realize, the battery would compensate for the alternator and power steering isn't even missed unless you're crawling at low speed through a parking lot making sharp turns.

But still, as I said, it may not be your problem -just something to consider and check out.

 

[BabyTurbo_GST]

It wouldn't shut off as long as your battery was still hooked up.

The alternator and power steering pump not working are things you might not realize, the battery would compensate for the alternator and power steering isn't even missed unless you're crawling at low speed through a parking lot making sharp turns.

But still, as I said, it may not be your problem -just something to consider and check out.

i will check it out, thanks for the help everyone

 

[viprez586]

im glad i read this! my alt just died on my earlier this week and my power steering pump is leaking as well. do you have the part number for the o-rings??

I had to dig through my receipts .
Just to clarify what fitting im taking about.

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I replaced all of the O-rings on the fitting because it is the pressure hose. I believe you need something like a 1-1/16th" socket to remove the entire fitting if i remember correctly.

Napa O-ring Part #s Manufactuer is BK, I don't have OEM # but it's called a P/S pump seal kit i believe.
727 2614
727 2613
727 2612
727 2610
727 2607
Some O-rings will seem a little big, but they worked great. But DO NOT overtighten that fitting to stop the leak. Use crush washers if it still leaks. If you happen to break that fitting the only place i could find one was from thedsmgraveyard - i ordered a used P/S pump and removed it from the pump for $25.

This will fix your P/S leak IF its coming from THAT fitting. So if you ever have to remove it for any reason, it WILL leak. Best bet is to spray brake clean all over the pump and clean it off. Then start up the car and watch for the leak.