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Almost got my new sub setup finished

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bryceorbiter

15+ Year Contributor
55
0
Jan 14, 2008
Freeland, Michigan
I came to terms with my 420a not being fast quite a while ago, so now I'm just making a fun car to commute in, I decided I wanted to do a nice setup for my system so I can blast my music and what not. This is what me and my friend came up with so far, though I am ordering a new 15 because the JL is on the way out.

I am running a Pioneer mono block putting out 600 RMS at 2 ohms, nothing to crazy but with the way the box is setup it is disgusting loud. In the pic you can see my JL 15w3 centered in the Box, then at the sides are two Alpine 10" type Rs. I still have to carpet the box, which I'll do when I get a new 15 in a few weeks here. I am also debating getting a huge 15 and another amp then just run the 10s off my Pioneer.


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Good start, but you shouldn't run subs of different sizes and brands/specs.
 
Yah, that's why I am figuring ill pick up a new amp when i replace my 15, that way the 10s are on a separate amp. When I put the JL in one coil was already blown, I just threw it in so that i didn't have a big empty hole until i get a new sub.
 
what kind of amp are you gonna use to push them and did you put walls in between each chamber if you dont then your subs will all move at different times
 
Yah we walled each sub into its own chamber, wanted to keep them at the ideal space for each sub, the amp is a pioneer 1000 watt mono block putting out 400rms at 4oh, and 600 at ohm. We wanted the 15 sealed so the ports go to each individual 10.
 
nice its looking good but id get either 2 jl 10s or a 15 type r just to keep everything the same im deciding if i wanna run 2 10s or 1 12 or 1 15 in my 95 talon
 
I think im replacing the 15 with a Type R, the two tens were considerably better to listen to when compared to the JL.
 
If you want to do it right, buy a nice sub instead of junk ass alpine type r's...


Want loud with decent quality on a budget, Fi SSD's are good.

Want quality, still pretty loud, but SQ oriented. Fi Q

Want LOUD without sounding like crap. Fi BL

Want ignorantly loud to the point where quality doesn't exist. Fi BTL.
 
I think i need to lengthen my ports out on the 10s, the bass is their, but it doesn't hit at all.
 
Iv got 6 brand new boss speakers 2 in the little hatch thingy in the trunk and two 12in subs and i always have it at -6 bass, i think your going way into too much detail LOL something simple works great, just saying.
 
I think i need to lengthen my ports out on the 10s, the bass is their, but it doesn't hit at all.

RE Enclosure Calculator

Design the box correctly and you will experience 10x's better performance.

My DD Cavalier has 1 12" sub on 300w RMS that people tell me I'm at at least 1k rms on 2 12's.

And it's some 10 year old Phoenix Gold sub I got for $20..
 
Iv got 6 brand new boss speakers 2 in the little hatch thingy in the trunk and two 12in subs and i always have it at -6 bass, i think your going way into too much detail LOL something simple works great, just saying.

I like having bass that punches you in the back of the head when it hits, I'm a huge metal fan so volume and double bass make me a happy man.

RE Enclosure Calculator

Design the box correctly and you will experience 10x's better performance.

My DD Cavalier has 1 12" sub on 300w RMS that people tell me I'm at at least 1k rms on 2 12's.

And it's some 10 year old Phoenix Gold sub I got for $20..


I don't have the space to use the boxes it recommends, plus because of the weird dimensions i have a square port would be hard as hell to get cut and set up.
 
Mine feels like im getting hit by a baseball bat LOL thats why i keep it as far negative on bass as possible!
 
Ok just re-did all the ports, sounds a million times better, probably helped to use longer ports. Now I just am waiting for a new 15 and amp then I will be either carpeting the whole box or fiber-glassing the whole trunk as I had to remove one of the trim pieces for it to fit snugly.

We also might take a heat gun and push all the panels in until they are flush with the body so it maintains a stock look while giving me maximum trunk space.
 
RE Enclosure Calculator

Design the box correctly and you will experience 10x's better performance.

My DD Cavalier has 1 12" sub on 300w RMS that people tell me I'm at at least 1k rms on 2 12's.

And it's some 10 year old Phoenix Gold sub I got for $20..

Quoted For truth.

I have heard a single JL 12" W3 outhit dual and triple W3 setups based on box design. Also heard it out hit a dual W7, and dual Sony Kicker 12s.

Jus sayin, a if you put half as much money, or at least some know how or reasearch in building your own box you can make a single sub out perform, with less power.

I prefer a 1 amp 1 sub setup in car as small as ours. Especially if its a 1g awd. You dont exactly have much trunk room to begin with.

However, to the OP. That is a nice looking setup :thumb: cant wait to see it finished.
 
RE Enclosure Calculator

Design the box correctly and you will experience 10x's better performance.

My DD Cavalier has 1 12" sub on 300w RMS that people tell me I'm at at least 1k rms on 2 12's.

And it's some 10 year old Phoenix Gold sub I got for $20..

This post is very true. Designing a good enclosure is as important as anything when building an audio system. It's not just about the total volume. The size and shape of any enclosure make a huge difference. I went the route of the OP once when I was building my first system. I had 2 10's and 2 12's in one box that was designed with nothing in mind other then fitting it in the trunk of the car I was putting it in. They were all MTX subs, but the 10's and 12's weren't the same model. Needless to say when I blew the voice coil on one of the 12's I decided to build a proper box and run only the 10's. This yielded a system that sounded louder and much cleaner. My advice it to stick to a simple set-up with 1 or 2 of the same sub in an enclosure that is a proven shape.
 
Looks good, but as mentioned I don't know how I feel about running different subs. Keep the progress pictures coming
 
Ok, so tonight im tightening up the airspace for the two 10s, I'm curious if you guys think i should modify my ports to face towards the back of the car to get them to punch more. Sound quality wise it is great right now, but its really quiet to the point where some songs it just sounds like i have a nice set of door speakers. I think that once i lower the airspace down to a little under a cubic foot its gonna hit alot better too.

I also started shopping for a new 15 and I think I might go with a Fi BTL because I now feel the need to blow my cousins new system out of the water. Hes running a Kicker L7 with maybe 900 rms going to it tops. I was thinking getting the Fi and a 1 ohm stable amp running 1500 RMS so I don't have to do full gain to be slamming. Then once I actually get money I plan to replace the type Rs with Fi 10s, not sure which line I'm going to go with on those yet though.

Progress is gonna be slow though as I'm in school right now and work at a gas station, so money is tight.
 
If you want to do it right, buy a nice sub instead of junk ass alpine type r's...


Want loud with decent quality on a budget, Fi SSD's are good.

Want quality, still pretty loud, but SQ oriented. Fi Q

Want LOUD without sounding like crap. Fi BL

Want ignorantly loud to the point where quality doesn't exist. Fi BTL.

QFT, Here is my brother's Blazer with 2 15" Fully loaded BLs with 2 RF T1000.1s, DC Power 260amp Alt. hes an audio nut.

YouTube - 2 15" Fi BL on 3kwrms Flexing My Friends Civic W/ The Blazer

YouTube - Breaking my roof with 2 15" Fi BLs on 3kwrms of Rockford Power pt. 1

YouTube - 2 15" Fi BL on 3kwrms Flexing My Doors

YouTube - 2 15" Fi BL 3kwrms+ Hair Trick
 
Hey, man. Why use 10" with bass reflex and a 15" in a selaed box? I would do it all the way around. Have the 10" sealed to provide a really nice kick bass, and open the 15 to complement the 10's with the lower sub bass frequencies. What you've done now is trying to push the 10's lower and the 15 higher...doesn't sound right
 
I did it the way I did because if I port both the 15 will drown out the 10s, this way I still get the responsiveness I want for metal from the 10s and the lows for hip hop from the 15.
 
Having two different types of sub playing in the same frequency range is surely causing some phase cancellation. If you want that rig to work well you need to run a very high quality 3-way crossover with 24db/octave slopes or better and let the 15 run extreme sub bass 40hz and under and let the 10's run 40hz-80hz. Otherwise your subs are fighting each other.
 
RE Enclosure Calculator

Design the box correctly and you will experience 10x's better performance.

My DD Cavalier has 1 12" sub on 300w RMS that people tell me I'm at at least 1k rms on 2 12's.

And it's some 10 year old Phoenix Gold sub I got for $20..

+1 to this. Building a box that's designed correctly for the sub can help just as much as adding subs or wattage, and it will sound better too
 
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