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ECMlink Almost able to idle. New 2.4l build. Mechanically sound

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93xsg

10+ Year Contributor
245
55
Jul 3, 2011
Sequim, Washington
Alrighty guys,

I've almost got my new 2.4l g4cs build to idle on its own. Car is same setup that worked before, save for a completely new engine top and bottom. All accessories, turbo, throttle body etc is the same.

Anywho last time around, I fixed all the mechanical issues like boost leaks, exhaust leaks etc and the car idled, and I was then able to set ignition timing and the airflow/rev with the throttle body.

This go around, I've spent months fixing boost leaks, exhaust leaks, etc and it's sooooooo close it idling on its own. But she won't stay running on its own without gas input for more that 3-5 seconds or so. Its ran better and better with each fix.

I know what to do once it runs just could use some help!

I recently found a random post to change loadfactor from 100% to 83% for the 2.4l and that helped a lot. I'm hoping there is something else I'm missing that's easy.

Log ATTACHED

Car
1993 Eagle Talon TSI AWD 5 SPD
20g turbo, External Tial gate, ported 2g mani
950 FIC at 43.5psi, set with aeromotive afpr, hardwired external pump, fuel cell
2g MAF with OHM conversion cable, FMIC, greddy BOV
S90 no ISC or FIAV with chinese SMIM
2.4l G4CS, 9.0:1 compression, forged rods/pistons, girdle, ARPS
Ported/polished head, oversize valves, 272s, beehives
ECMLINK, PLX Wideband tapped into EGR





1). No boost, vac, or exhaust leaks.

Test up to 15 psi on my boost gauge, no hisses or air

2). Verify mechanical timing.

2.4l g4cs with the long 4g64 belt. Set to the 3rd option on the post linked below in my response. (post #3 on this thread)

3). Verify base timing

Haven't been able to get it to idle for this

4). Ignition system

New ngks gapped at 0.28, spark on all 4 is healthy

5). Motor health

Compression was 145psi all 4 cylinders but the battery was weak that day and cranking slow.
Leak down test 72psi down to 70psi consistent all 4 cylinders

6). Basic throttle body adjustments.

s90 throttle body with no ISC and no FIAV.
I can't get her to idle yet, so I haven't been able to do this fully

7). Compression ratio

2.4l stroker with 9.0:1 wiseco 4g64/4g63 head pistons

8). Wiring and sensors

Nothing unusual here

9). No DTC/CEL codes

Nothing on ECMLINK

10). Electrical system

New battery and alternator works

11). Base fuel pressure and injector values

43.5psi
950cc FIC
I used ECM calculator built in and looked up the deadtime value

12). Properly calibrated and configured wideband sensor

PLX in the EGR spot, it worked as it should for narrowband and closed loop on last motor

13). Type of fuel

92 octane chevron

14). ECMlink how-to videos

yessirrr
 

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Last edited:
Maybe the engine is not getting enough air to keep running.
I would make sure if the mechanical valve timing is set correctly. And then try to open the throttle plate more little by little by screwing in the stop bolt to allow more air into the engine at idle.
 
Thanks. Ill give that a try tonight. I did see that on another post. With everything deleted, the s90 can only get air thru the throttle stop, or the BISS screw. It does smell rich to me.

I guess that makes sense, Id open the throttle a bit, readjust the ecmlink throttle position, and it should get that extra air without adding fuel of throttle.

I did go thru and recheck the valve timing, according the post I'll try to find. I even used my 2 plane laser level. Set the horizontal plane even thru the cam bolts, and the 90 degree to that lined up with where the cam needed to be.

I believe the leakdown test also verified successful timing as thats done at TDC on each cylinder??

I used the 3rd picture for timing.
 
Last edited:
Maybe the engine is not getting enough air to keep running.
I would make sure if the mechanical valve timing is set correctly. And then try to open the throttle plate more little by little by screwing in the stop bolt to allow more air into the engine at idle.
Brother thank you! I was able to get it idling and it's going into closed loop!!!

I started adjusting the throttle stop like you said and it got close. But I'd adjusted to like -40% MAF adjustment on ecm previously trying to get it to run. Felt like I was getting no where going back and forth between ECU and throttle after a bit.

So I 0d the MAF all the way across and went back to the throttle body. First try idled for a about a minute barely chugging lean. I did 180 degree turns at a time adjustment back and forth.

Got it idling on its own for good....

I checked the log and it was lean so I added 20% on the first 5 on the MAF sliders and boom right around stoich and going into closed loop.


Thank you sooo much I'm stoked!
 
Last edited:
Brother thank you! I was able to get it idling and it's going into closed loop!!!

I started adjusting the throttle stop like you said and it got close. But I'd adjusted to like -40% MAF adjustment on ecm. Felt like I was getting no where going back and forth after a bit.

So I 0d the MAF all the way across and went back to the throttle body. First try idled for a out a minute. 180 degree turns at a time adjustment back and forth.

Got it idling for good....

I checked the log it was lean so I added 20% on the first 5 on the MAF sliders and boom right around stoich and going into closed loop.


Thank you sooo much I'm stoked!
I'm glad to hear that :thumb:
 
I'm glad to hear that :thumb:
Well, here's some visual and audial candy for you for helping! (Next Post sorry)

Some more tweaking with the throttle stop and air screw on the s90 (and eventually minor MAF changes on ecmlink) and she's not surging anymore and idling and revving proper in closed loop. Moved under its own power for first time in 4 years or so!
 
Here's my car loping and idling now!

++++Bro I also just noticed you were the original poster of the post that helped me time my motor 🤣(the post I linked to)

man I was so lost there for a bit. Even after I had the motor In the car I didn't understand it yet..it wasn't till diagnosis and really digging into it trying to figure out my no idle issue that I fully understood what was going on with the different timing combos

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
Last edited:
Well, here's some visual and audial candy for you for helping! (Next Post sorry)

Some more tweaking with the throttle stop and air screw on the s90 (and eventually minor MAF changes on ecmlink) and she's not surging anymore and idling and revving proper in closed loop. Moved under its own power for first time in 4 years or so!
Sounds great!

Actually many people miss that how important the stop screw position to have stable idle is. It's not only for stopping the plate to prevent the throttle plate being stuck. Our engine still requires some air through the throttle plate to have stable idle. For instance, the factory stop screw position on 2g/early EVO style throttle body is set at 1-1/4 turn and painted from factory not to change the position. This is nearly equal 2~3% throttle opening and this opening amount would make some hundreds RPM difference at idle. We should consider this position as throttle position 0%. Then start to adjust the idle from here. You can make the engine run without it but the engine may have more chance to stall in many circumstances.

++++Bro I also just noticed you were the original poster of the post that helped me time my motor 🤣(the post I linked to)

man I was so lost there for a bit. Even after I had the motor In the car I didn't understand it yet..it wasn't till diagnosis and really digging into it trying to figure out my no idle issue that I fully understood what was going on with the different timing combos

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
haha yeah that was me😂 I'm happy if that helped you.
 
Sounds great!

Actually many people miss that how important the stop screw position to have stable idle is. It's not only for stopping the plate to prevent the throttle plate being stuck. Our engine still requires some air through the throttle plate to have stable idle. For instance, the factory stop screw position on 2g/early EVO style throttle body is set at 1-1/4 turn and painted from factory not to change the position. This is nearly equal 2~3% throttle opening and this opening amount would make some hundreds RPM difference at idle. We should consider this position as throttle position 0%. Then start to adjust the idle from here. You can make the engine run without it but the engine may have more chance to stall in many circumstances.


haha yeah that was me😂 I'm happy if that helped you.
The post really helped. Not too much 100% clear information out there.
And thanks! My first cammed motor man I love the pig sound.

Definitely learned a lot the last few days about throttle bodies and air and idle and fuel trims thanks to all of this. It's cool to understand how things work and then diagnosis is way easier. Appreciate the help man. Love these forums
 
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