AEM AEM V1 users- Help needed

[Insane Performa]

Please NO why/anything Link!

I have my car up and idling on AEM V1 1.19. It has a horrible tip in on throttle. Can anyone help with the load accel or throttle accel values that have worked?

My build...G4CS block, 2g head, pump gas, BC 280 cams and valve train, Stock iginition with triggerdisc disc, Omni 4bar and GM iat, FIC 1450s, Ported 1g throttle body, JMF intake, divided HX35, and ETS race front mount.

Everything is setup....IE SD sensors, tps, timing, injector battery offset table, I just have no idea where to start with the accel tables or Accel dTPS Trigger, Accel Limit, Accel Pump Sustain and Accel Sensitivity. I figured a mix of both would offer the best effect.

Any help would be much appreciated.


https://www.facebook.com/jason.hakala.3/videos/vb.551270385/10155465820305386/?type=2&theater

Link for idle video.

 

[twicks69]

Have you calibrated your TPS voltage range and recalibrated throttle position range?

The dTPS trigger is at 13
Accel limit is at 59%
Accel pump sustain is at 12.89%
Accel Sensitivity is at 82.81%

Do you have your speed density table (boost fuel correct table graph) linear from -100% to +300% ?
What does your fuel and timing maps look like?

 

[Insane Performa]

I ran the throttle wizard, outside of that I changed the min. voltage so it was never 0% (stays around 0.58) and when I push it to the floor about 99%.

Those values are close to mine and what I have tired, besides accel limit, mine si 100.

The speed density table you are talking about was at flat 0 all the way across.
Going to change it and see what it does.

Fuel (Raw) and timing maps I'll attach. My plan is to change the timing map to reflect the 2g timing map to start.

I have only tuned the idle portion. I can slowly raise the throttle up to about 20% and it will rev all the way to 8k but anything over 20% or close to it has a "bad miss or bogs down/leans out." Less than 20% and the afr are in the high 11s low 12s all the way up to 6-8k.

 

[YZFR1]

I've actually had very similar issue with my car whenever i tried to adjust throttle voltage manually. When i use throttle wizard and just leave it at that the problem goes away and i've never had any issues just leaving it like that. I know everyone usually says you should tinker with it after running the wizard but that only gave me bad tip-in problems.

Another thing worth taking a look at if the above doesn't help is injector phasing. When i had it adjusted for 550cc's and later switched to 2200cc it gave me a very horrible drivability. The car could barely pull out on to the freeway, it was not safe driving it like that. The last thing i tried was phasing the injectors for 2200's and it drives beautiful again like it should

 

[Insane Performa]

YZFR1- were you running the stock trigger disc? I used the phasing setting that came with the triggerdisc. You wouldn't happen to have your old cal and mod list?

On a good note I switched from the Omni 4 bar to an AEM 5bar last night and it cleared up some. I could raise the throttle till about 35-40% and it would rev to about 4k then would cut out and miss. If I slowly raised it and then opened it all the way it would try to build boost like it the timing was off. So I am going to recheck base timing and see if I have any timing drift or I might switch back to a stock cas and see if it changes.

After switching to the 5bar, and it cleared up some. I tired adjusting the boost comp table to twicks recommendation of -100% to +300% linear from left to right but it died and wouldn't start back. Changed it back to 0 straight across and it started back. I going to do some reading up on the boost comp table and see what all it does.

Twicks- was your recommended settings of -100% at the -14.69 area and the 300% at the far right of the graph? That's what I did and it died and wouldn't start back. It died so fast that I couldn't see why.

 

[Mello]

You only use the BoostComp table if your doing your tuning to use boost compensation. There are some good & long threads on the AEM forum on how to tune with boost comp. The -100%/300% is a linear scaler that is set to match how you did the Load break point setup settings. If you are use the full range of the 5 bar MAP these values would be -100% at full vacuum & +400% at 5 bar (100% for each bar). I personally use boost comp tuning because is extremely quick to tune your fuel map for all load conditions.

 

[Insane Performa]

Thanks for the info. But I'm not that far yet. I'm still stuck on the tip in issue. I am definitely going to look at all the boostcomp info I can find bc after the little research I have found, it looks like the route I will take after I can even pull it out of the garage.

 

[Mello]

With out being there it's hard to tell. My thoughts are your tip in problem is the outcome of other things not tuned correctly yet. What are you using for the start point of your "calibration"? All the things mentioned above I call modifier parameters that are used to tweak the base tune to adjust to changing conditions (except the TPS cal stuff. TPS is more a trigger type input to the ECU). I would turn these modifier things off and check that the base ignition & fuel is optimized and verified at steady state conditions then work on these modifier tweaking. With this said, you need to decide on the boost comp tuning because this is the bases for your chosen fuel mapping strategy. A good base map shouldn't need much accel fuel for very long & injector phasing only does much at idle & becomes negligible as rpms increase. Consider injector phasing as something to tweak that effects emissions & combustion quality.

 

[Insane Performa]

I started with the map base cal and then when through all the wizards for tps, map, injectors, ect. Got it started synced timing and tuned idle with O2 feed back off. That's been it so far. I was going to adjust for timing drift but I can't rev it up with the tip in issues I'm having. That's when I started to look at the throttle accel stuff but not much has helped it or its not where I need to be looking.

If the throttle is cracked all the way it sucks in all the air and dies. Leans all the way off the guage.

 

[Mello]

Okay, I think I know where your at. The base cal are "conservative" meaning AEM pulled a lot of ignition & your fuel is way, way rich. Leave ignition alone & get your fuel/AFR's cleaned up. You do have a WB? Your tip in problems are fuel map related (chock, chock; cough, cough). The ignition drift is something messed with after you get to where you can DD without any issues; stalling, idle hunting, accel stumbling, etc. Remember AEM tells you, the start up cal is only provide to start; not drive, to only get your engine started so you can begin to tune. Base tuning is fuel & spark, nothing fancy or elaborate. You should be able to adjust base fuel & base timing so that DD & cruising is almost like stock OEM without messing with anything else in the startup cal. (you'll just be leaving a lot of potential power untapped).

 

[YZFR1]

OP, yes i'm still using stock trigger disc but in aem there are two phasing settings. One is for ignition and the other one is for injectors. Go under Fuel and somewhere there should be a window called Injector Phasing. Look up online how to set it up without using a dyno. Start with factory settings and go from there.

I found this table makes a drastic difference in drivability when using large injectors.

 

[Mello]

I wouldn't mess with injector phasing yet. Set it back to the startup cal and work on your fuel map.

 

[Insane Performa]

I have a 24 tooth trigger disc. My injector phasing is aligned with the settings on it.

Mello- I've worked on the fuel map. I can slowly rev it up and it stay between 11.0 and 15.0. But if I open the throttle all the way it leans out off the guage. I'll see what double the fuel in the next couple of cells after idle does.

 

[YZFR1]

If you are still having tip-in issues after trying everything that Mello suggested i would advise trying a stock trigger. I have heard some people having weird issues with aftermarket ones. That's the main reason i never bothered with one.

Btw, injector phasing is not just idle and emission it's also very low load and rpm, right where you would tip-in

 

[twicks69]

Being that you are now using an AEM 5-bar instead of a 4-bar Omni, then you will have to change the map sensor wizard as well as the boost compensation table to -100% to 400% (1 bar vacuum, 4 bars boost). Your tune is likely the cause of the throttle tip in issues.

 

[twicks69]

Here's some quick and dirty images from one of my tunes. image 1 is your advanced fuel trims, please also take note to the MicroSec/Bit as that is your resolution. the higher the number the coarser your resolution, the lower the number will be finer resolution. This will make a major difference on the fuel tuning for fine-tuning it to your injectors. Image 2 is your boost fuel correction table for an AEM 5-bar MAP sensor. Image 3 is a boost comp fuel map shown in AEM Pro V1.19. Image 4 is a fuel map in raw value and ignition timing table shown in AEM Pro Tuner V3.2.

Again, use this as a direction, your tune may look quite different, but keep it open to the idea of what it can look like. With that said, this is one of my 1000AWHP dyno tunes on my car at 48psi from 2013.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[Insane Performa]

Thanks very much. This is what I figured out over the weekend. First when I got it up to running temp Saturday night, I noticed something was off, when I pushed the throttle the load value went all the way to the top. Reloaded the map and still the same thing. A quick look and it was operating load by tps, changed it to map voltage and was much better.

After figuring that out I went back through some settings to try and see if anything else was off.

Instead of trying again on that cal with all the changes that I don't want to go back through and readjust.

I'm starting fresh on the startup cal and just going to go through it all again and know exactly where everything is.

I should be done with the base cal wizards and timing sync tonight and will post results.

On one note. It was night and day between the Omni and 5bar.

 

[Insane Performa]

I got a new base cal are ironed out and by far does it run better. I took it down the road, YAY, just to see what everything looked like and how it was doing. Oh course it was pig rich, 10.0afr, with the boost comp map as described about, so some fuel tuning needs to be done. Nothing more than what I expected. On wastegate pressure I seen a max of 16psi.

From here, Wheres the best place to start? Keep in mind I'm not a total newbie.

Should I start with a timing map that looks like the 2g's just more on the conservative side to start dialing fuel back some at my wastegate pressure? Or is there a better way to go about dialing it in and turning up the boost.

Thanks for all the help so far guys.

 

[bling5tatus]

WIthout being experienced with the AEM I'd say to try to mimic the stock map as a starting point. Once you have that you could adjust beyond there, but I'd work to get the oem timing map as close to copied into the AEM as possible.

 

[familyMAN]

I got a new base cal are ironed out and by far does it run better. I took it down the road, YAY, just to see what everything looked like and how it was doing. Oh course it was pig rich, 10.0afr, with the boost comp map as described about, so some fuel tuning needs to be done. Nothing more than what I expected. On wastegate pressure I seen a max of 16psi.

From here, Wheres the best place to start? Keep in mind I'm not a total newbie.

Should I start with a timing map that looks like the 2g's just more on the conservative side to start dialing fuel back some at my wastegate pressure? Or is there a better way to go about dialing it in and turning up the boost.

Thanks for all the help so far guys.

Start with conservative timing.

For fueling, you can use o2 feedback correction and in the beginning, give it a wide range of correction to help you get some tuning passes. (+-20%). Then use the logs and correction factor to pull out or add the fuel needed at that portion of the map. After a pull or two, you should be able to bring the correction down to +-5% and refine further from there.

With boost comp, you can tune your 16psi rows and apply the same numbers in the fuel map for above 16psi and it will be really close to your target AFR when you raise the boost.

Before doing anything...go back to make sure everything is still in sync since you started with a new map...timing, TPS and wideband. Also with TPS on a Series 1, the wizard isn't perfect, so you may need to adjust the min and max voltage. You don't want min to go down to 0 or max to 100. You want them around 1% and 98-99%.

 

[taylork057]

just add fuel to the main map for easy fix. specially off idle.

 

[gsx4g64]

Is anyone using series 1 with Fic 2150 injectors? I'd so, what did select from the injector wizard?

 

[bling5tatus]

Thank you Twicks for posting those pictures. I've always wondered what someone's tuned 3d fuel map looks like on a graph..... and now I know that the way I tuned mine is roughly the same shape as what you've got. I was only giving the car what it wanted to get the map that way though so it makes sense.

 

[twicks69]

Thai, with 2150's I would contact FIC and get a battery voltage offset table so you can manually enter the information, and then just do your fuel map with a fine enough microseconds/bit resolution to be easy to tune.