Advice for engine rebuild

[CDgr97GSX]

Hi guys...i have a 97 gsx and so far i bought some parts like Fp 3582HTA, Fp race manifold ,ETS 10'' intercooler and DSMLink v3 and now i want to rebuild the engine but i don't know witch way to go...keep it 2.0 or make it 2.1 or 2.3...what brand the parts should be and most important...if i should do it myself or buy it from a vendor. The problem is that i'm not from US and because of this i have to do it once and do it right...is no returning or refund in my case once i bought the parts. Thanks for any future help!

 

[2GbTalonGuy]

I would keep it 2.0 7 bolt. Internals depend on how much horses you plan on making. For anything up to 450HP I would just rebuild with stock internals

As for advice, bag and tag EVERYTHING! Every little bold, screw, clip, and washer. Also take your time and make sure everything is done right.

 

[92AWDHX40]

Find stock parts for your engine or even do a full rebuild, so many options, and your goals.

 

[CDgr97GSX]

I want a full rebuild that's for sure and i don't have any goals...i will be happy to make over 400whp. It is important for me to not be restricted by some parts if i want to maximize the turbo setup. This turbo have a 75lbs flow if i'm not wrong so in theory is capable of making 750whp...then i want a full rebuild engine that can hold this power even if i'll never gonna make so much. It is important to be reliable...because i don't want to fix the engine all the time and i'm using the car for daily driven with some weekends on race track. Thanks

 

[mrfister11]

good used eagle rods are cheap... seams to be the weakest point in the rotating assembly.. if this is a budget and you dont want to be limited like you said.. just upgrade rods at minimum.. pistons. then.. replace hardware with arp.. should be good to go.. people usually dont have problems with lower end if its done right

 

[CDgr97GSX]

good used eagle rods are cheap... seams to be the weakest point in the rotating assembly.. if this is a budget and you dont want to be limited like you said.. just upgrade rods at minimum.. pistons. then.. replace hardware with arp.. should be good to go.. people usually dont have problems with lower end if its done right

I want everything new on my engine to be sure i don't have problems later. This is what i was thinking to have on the engine head rebuild:
-Fp 4R cams
-Ferrea or Supertech Valve Guides
-Ferrea valve seals
-Ferrea / Supertech / valves 1mm over
-Manley dual / Supertech dual high tension valve springs/Retainers

I'm not sure about what brand should i chose and aslo what to do with the hydraulic lifters and rocker arms

As for the bottom end i was thinking to use a Manley rotary assembly with forged crank and I beam rods. Any input will be appreciated. Thanks!

 

[BogusSVO]

I want everything new on my engine to be sure i don't have problems later. This is what i was thinking to have on the engine head rebuild:
-Fp 4R cams
-Ferrea or Supertech Valve Guides
-Ferrea valve seals
-Ferrea / Supertech / valves 1mm over
-Manley dual / Supertech dual high tension valve springs/Retainers

I'm not sure about what brand should i chose and aslo what to do with the hydraulic lifters and rocker arms

As for the bottom end i was thinking to use a Manley rotary assembly with forged crank and I beam rods. Any input will be appreciated. Thanks!

Go to ebay, look up Engnbldr, Get his bronze guides, and +1mm valves, and 3G Hla's
This set up is great, and will save you money.

Get a set of Viton Blue valve stem seals.

I have not looked at the FP 4R cams, so I can not point you at what valve springs to use.

The rocker ares, or roller followers you have now will be fine, as long as you inspect them and the rollers spin freely.

Your stock crank will be fine as long as you have it cleaned and inspected. There are builds on here with stock cranks and 500hp

Forged pistons and H beam rods of your choice.
Been some reports about some wiseco pistons and CP pistons, so you will want to reaserch that some more.

A good machine shop is what you need to look for and use. NOT all shops are equiped the same and can do the work you will need.

 

[TSITurbo95]

^ Great post as always. . .

OP, follow the post above, get some forged rods/pistons and crank inspected.

 

[CDgr97GSX]

^ Great post as always. . .

OP, follow the post above, get some forged rods/pistons and crank inspected.

I will...thanks. As for the crack inspected...i don't think i can find a work shop around my area here in Europe that can be as good as one from US in the 4g63 engine...so is better to buy a new crank then to use my old one...in this way i can be sure that nothing can go wrong with my new rebuild engine.

Go to ebay, look up Engnbldr, Get his bronze guides, and +1mm valves, and 3G Hla's
This set up is great, and will save you money.

Get a set of Viton Blue valve stem seals.

I have not looked at the FP 4R cams, so I can not point you at what valve springs to use.

The rocker ares, or roller followers you have now will be fine, as long as you inspect them and the rollers spin freely.

Your stock crank will be fine as long as you have it cleaned and inspected. There are builds on here with stock cranks and 500hp

Forged pistons and H beam rods of your choice.
Been some reports about some wiseco pistons and CP pistons, so you will want to reaserch that some more.

A good machine shop is what you need to look for and use. NOT all shops are equiped the same and can do the work you will need.

Thanks for this tip. I will have a look on ebay and see what i can find. On the other hand i prefer to order all the parts for a single company to be much easier to shipped in Europe. For this reason i was thinking to not buy separate parts and use a complete rotary assembly from Manley in 2.0 or 2.1...with forged crank and pistons and H beam or I beam rods. In this way the machine shop that will work on my engine block and head will have the rotary assembly already balanced and they don't have to do it them self.

 

[TSITurbo95]

Its up to you on the crank. Just be sure to get the crank magna fluxed, inspected, and balanced.

 

[lil corb]

I will...thanks. As for the crack inspected...i don't think i can find a work shop around my area here in Europe that can be as good as one from US in the 4g63 engine...so is better to buy a new crank then to use my old one...in this way i can be sure that nothing can go wrong with my new rebuild engine.



Thanks for this tip. I will have a look on ebay and see what i can find. On the other hand i prefer to order all the parts for a single company to be much easier to shipped in Europe. For this reason i was thinking to not buy separate parts and use a complete rotary assembly from Manley in 2.0 or 2.1...with forged crank and pistons and H beam or I beam rods. In this way the machine shop that will work on my engine block and head will have the rotary assembly already balanced and they don't have to do it them self.

That's understandable...

look into Welcome to Jackson Auto Machine and talk to Tony. Very knowledgeable and maybe then can work with you to get a longblock shipped to you fully installed from Oil pan to valvecover with all the upgrades installed!

Goodluck!

 

[CDgr97GSX]

One update. In my first post i said i have FP 3582 HTA but actually is a FP HTA Dsm82 so is coming with a FP30 turbine housing. After reading some posts and talking with a member who offer his help i'm still not sure i should go 2.3...it seems this turbo will work better in 2.0. Jackson Auto Machine offer me an invoice for a 2.3 engine and Maperformance is not building 7 bolts engine. Any thoughts?

 

[Tfitch90]

That's understandable...

look into Welcome to Jackson Auto Machine and talk to Tony. Very knowledgeable and maybe then can work with you to get a longblock shipped to you fully installed from Oil pan to valvecover with all the upgrades installed!

Goodluck!

Tony did my machine work on my block and head. Great work! Bogus refered me to use him and I did. I will be using him again.

 

[crazytsiawd]

One update. In my first post i said i have FP 3582 HTA but actually is a FP HTA Dsm82 so is coming with a FP30 turbine housing. After reading some posts and talking with a member who offer his help i'm still not sure i should go 2.3...it seems this turbo will work better in 2.0. Jackson Auto Machine offer me an invoice for a 2.3 engine and Maperformance is not building 7 bolts engine. Any thoughts?

I currently have a 2.3 and the dsm82 and i just had a very light street tune done and i was seeing full boost by about 41-4200 rpm, id post some logs but car is currently at dyno shop getting some minor things done, that i couldn't.

my advice, stick with the 2.3, you gain some extra torque/faster spooling turbo, and if you plan on having a little fun on the streets then yeah 2.3 is the way to go.

 

[1983gsp]

Whomever you have do your machine work needs to set your clearances for the horsepower level you are going to run. The correct clearances for 400hp are way different for 750hp. You need to research and pick the brain of your machinest and if he doesn't seem knowledgeable enough, find someone else.
The term "loose lives" holds true in a high horsepower situation. That means more clearance for the piston to wall, ring end gap, main and rod bearings. You can build it tight "small clearances" and it will be fine to 400+HP but you start gambling after that threshold.
If you build it yourself get familiar with micrometers other measuring instruments. And always, cleanliness is next to godliness when assembling your engine. Clean, clean, clean, and when you think its clean enough, clean it once more. Oil galleys, baffle plate in the valve cover, drains from the head, oil cooler and lines, and anyplace else you can think of.
Good luck on your journey and may the dsm gods bless you.

 

[CDgr97GSX]

I currently have a 2.3 and the dsm82 and i just had a very light street tune done and i was seeing full boost by about 41-4200 rpm, id post some logs but car is currently at dyno shop getting some minor things done, that i couldn't.

my advice, stick with the 2.3, you gain some extra torque/faster spooling turbo, and if you plan on having a little fun on the streets then yeah 2.3 is the way to go.

If i'll have the engine build by some shop in US was thinking to have it 2.3 and keep my old one 2.0...in case one day i want to build a 2.0 engine. I had a look at your profile and you have almost the same setup as i have plus many other parts and i was curios about your power and your time. Did you test the new turbo or everything in your profile is with the old one?

Whomever you have do your machine work needs to set your clearances for the horsepower level you are going to run. The correct clearances for 400hp are way different for 750hp. You need to research and pick the brain of your machinest and if he doesn't seem knowledgeable enough, find someone else.
The term "loose lives" holds true in a high horsepower situation. That means more clearance for the piston to wall, ring end gap, main and rod bearings. You can build it tight "small clearances" and it will be fine to 400+HP but you start gambling after that threshold.
If you build it yourself get familiar with micrometers other measuring instruments. And always, cleanliness is next to godliness when assembling your engine. Clean, clean, clean, and when you think its clean enough, clean it once more. Oil galleys, baffle plate in the valve cover, drains from the head, oil cooler and lines, and anyplace else you can think of.
Good luck on your journey and may the dsm gods bless you.

I know building a high HP engine is serious stuff and if i will have the engine build in my town it will be done in a workshop but even like this i'm not 100% sure it will be like it should because the experience they have with this kind of engine. The facts are like this...pay 5-6k $ and get one from US and be sure it's bullet proof or buy the parts for 3.5-4k $ and rebuild mine. Depends of the parts used the difference it will be around 2k $ between them...and it's a hard choice :d

 

[tron2119]

If I were in your situation I would pay the extra for complete peace of mind. These guuys build great,RELIABLE engines everyday. Pay the extra and never look back!

 

[crazytsiawd]

If i'll have the engine build by some shop in US was thinking to have it 2.3 and keep my old one 2.0...in case one day i want to build a 2.0 engine. I had a look at your profile and you have almost the same setup as i have plus many other parts and i was curios about your power and your time. Did you test the new turbo or everything in your profile is with the old one?

Ill have numbers for the dsm82 in about a month or so just waiting for dyno time, as for my track time that was on an hx40 with dsmlink. After the 3rd rebuild on it, I got tired of reliability issues so I got the dsm82. Everything is the same in my profile just minus dsmlink and a few other minor things, I have yet to take this new setup out to the track.

 

[SPYDERGSTTUNER]

A 2k+ difference in my opinion is quite a bit considering all the fun and everything about owning dsms is doing alot of your own work(besides machine work obviously) so you know exactly what's in it, what to expect,and all the experience you will gain for anything needed down the road. This way if anything goes wrong you have no one to blame but yourself instead of later reading a thread about how a shop/vendor screwed your 5-6k setup.