adding a new vacume line

[VIGILART]

I was wondering if it would be a good or bad idea to drill a hole in egr blockoff plate (removed of course) and add a nipple to it to add an additional vacume source. I'm wanting an isolated vacume source for my map sensor. I have seen that on a 1g throttle body you can use the (P) nipple for a vacume source for a boost gauge also. how well will this work for a map sensor?

 

[210 dsm]

Ok, if i understand u right your asking if you can tap into the egr hole for a vacuum feed? . . . if so, no it would not work. the port in the intake manifold for the egr isn't open to the rest of the air in the manifold that go's into the engine. you need a direct vac/boost source such as the intake mani or the intercooler piping. it has been quite a while since Ive popped a hood on a DSM ,but if i remember there's at least 4 or 5 good spots to tap from on the throttle body and manifold alone. if your deleting the egr system anyway then that should free up some nipples on the TB.

 

[dented_coffee]

I was wondering if it would be a good or bad idea to drill a hole in egr blockoff plate (removed of course) and add a nipple to it to add an additional vacume source. I'm wanting an isolated vacume source for my map sensor. I have seen that on a 1g throttle body you can use the (P) nipple for a vacume source for a boost gauge also. how well will this work for a map sensor?

I have a OEM factory steel block off plate that I drilled a hole in it and threaded to use a spare nipple off of an intake manni. I have used it on my 1990 and now my 1994 to control my BOV and its been working great.

My reasoning for the extra port was because I have a bonehead performance extrusion honed intake manni from my 1993 eclipse and it's a NT manni . I had to make due with what I had so I put it to good use while I was deleting the EGR that was causing a boost leak.

Just make sure that you get the threaded hole in the center of the left hole in the EGR mounting spot.

 

[TSi Kid]

My reasoning for the extra port was because I have a bonehead performance extrusion honed intake manni from my 1993 eclipse and it's a NT manni . I had to make due with what I had so I put it to good use while I was deleting the EGR that was causing a boost leak.

So sketchy but if it works then no complaints. Just don't mess up or else you'll need a new block off plate .

 

[VIGILART]

Just make sure that you get the threaded hole in the center of the left hole in the EGR mounting spot.

couldn't I just drill and tap a hole in the center of the egr block off plate?
It sounds like you tapped the left side mounting hole of block off plate were it bolts on to mani? Is there a difference or reason for doing that?

 

[99gst_racer]

couldn't I just drill and tap a hole in the center of the egr block off plate?
It sounds like you tapped the left side mounting hole of block off plate were it bolts on to mani? Is there a difference or reason for doing that?

You can't drill through the center, because there's two holes behind there and neither are centered. You'll see what he's talking about once you remove the EGR. The left hole goes to the intake manifold, and the right hole goes to the exhaust manifold.

 

[VIGILART]

thank you everyone for your help.

 

[dented_coffee]

So sketchy but if it works then no complaints. Just don't mess up or else you'll need a new block off plate .

It's only risky if you jump in on the this mod wiout a care in the world or do it backwards. I showed my uncle this and he uses it on every one of his DSM's but he uses a welded on fitting on the EGR plate to go to a vacume distribution block. He's never had a problem with it on all 3 of his daily driven DSM's and I have never had a problem with it on 2 different DSM's that I have had and still have as a daily driver. Thanks for the concerns thow

You can't drill through the center, because there's two holes behind there and neither are centered. You'll see what he's talking about once you remove the EGR. The left hole goes to the intake manifold, and the right hole goes to the exhaust manifold.

Thats for the support on that Paul . I wasn't here to reply back as fast as I usually do. I still wanna see more of your 1G . I need some ideas and tips for weight reduction but still stock appearing in the front so it will be a really safe daily driver (its auto now and she weighs alot more now) .

thank you everyone for your help.

I can get a picture of it tomarrow if you would like me to. I'm not at home right now and I have pictures of when I was installing it and when I made it. Make sure that you get a nice gasket and not one of them crappy composit ones for that plate. You might have to be carful with some of the EGR plates as they are really thin. Use thread sealant on the nipple you put into the EGR plate or you will have a boost leak. I had a hard time with a cheap composit gasket and had to cut a new one out of a sheet of FELPRO gasket material and used permatex hard setting gasket sealant.

That area is a common area for boost leaks and when you remove the old metal gasket from the flange there will be a bunch of exhaust creasode in both holes. I took a shop vac and held it at the opening of the passage to the EGR inside the intake plenium to catch anything from falling into the head. I then too a long flexable steel braded handle stainless steel brush and cleaned out the passage leading into the plenium from the EGR port. (I DIDNT WANT ANYTHING CLOGGING THE VAC HOSE FOR THE BOV or getting into the BOV). Don't use a razor blade to clean the gaskets surface it can cause goudges. Just use some emery cloth or fine scotch brite just to remove dirt, creasode, gunk. Wipe it clean to remove grease and your ready to install the EGR plate and gasket.