Act 2600 vs. Centerforce dual friction

[JeanDSM]

This month i will be instaling a new clutch kit for my 2g GST. I will be looking for 350 to 450 whp with the new setup i will install this month. I was thinking on buying the act 2600 kit like most people do in this forum but i found a great deal on a center force dualfriction kit.

What is the pros and cons on this kit over the other one?

Note:
i will also install fidanza flywheel and FP flywheel bolt kit and OEM Throu out bearing.

 

[98gst62]

Go with the 2600 you wont be dissapointed. It will hold the power you want to throw at it. I wouldnt reccomend the CDF with your goals, my boss has a 350whp spyder and used a CDF and it just wouldn't hold. So now he has a 2600 and it has not let him down. I also have a 2600 with xact flywheel and I love it!

 

[JeanDSM]

thanks, i think ill chose act but ....

i read that act will hold 58% over stock and CF 90% over stock

 

[YiNYaNg]

My buddy used a ACT pressure plate and CDF disc and made 380whp and it holds fine.

 

[GVR4592]

A 2600 will hold a lot more than a CFDF. The ACT 2600 with a street disc will hold around 400 lb/ft of torque, that's almost double the stock torque.

 

[YiNYaNg]

I'll always keep saying.... Get twin disc FTW...

 

[PieEyedPiper]

I'll always keep saying.... Get twin disc FTW...

Surely you can provide some basis for that statement though, right?

 

[daren_p]

Most people that have issues with the CFDF are becasue they either didn't break it in or have the inproper step height, both which are really important with this clutch. Will the CFDF clutch hold as much as the 2600 no probably not but it offers light pedal pressure for the daily driver & puts much less pressure on the thrust bearing, if your still running a 7 bolt. RRE tested the CFDF clutch at 2500 lbs. Fwd's don't have traction like the awds so they are much easier on clutches. I have ran mine for this past summer & its held up perfectly, so about 10K miles & ~330whp. I know a couple fwd's that running this clutch in the power range your looking for & think their great. Next summer I should be in the 350+ range & I don't expect to have any issues.

 

[YiNYaNg]

Surely you can provide some basis for that statement though, right?

More surface area so it needs less clamping force to hold more power.
Less stress on the thust bearings also = less chance of crankwalk.
Discs life last longer since there's more surface area.
Less pedal effort.
Holds more tq than any single disc!

It's late and I'm getting sleepy.... who else cares to go on more be my guest...

 

[YiNYaNg]

Here's what I'm using....

http://www.devotuning.com/drivetrain.html

 

[daren_p]

More surface area so it needs less clamping force to hold more power.

Not sure how true that is, while yes multiple disks are usually designed to hold more power, more surface area doesn't need less clamping force, its the exact opposite. If you have 2 disks used with the exact same clamping force, the one with less surface area will hold more power as the same amount of force through a smaller area will increase the holding ability. Think about the single disk clutches designed for higher HP, usually the more power they can handle, the less the surface area, 6 puck, 4 puck etc. Now compare that to a stocker or one designed as a next step up, they are usually full face.

 

[YiNYaNg]

Like tires.... more surface area means more traction

 

[daren_p]

Like tires.... more surface area means more traction

Tires are different story, they aren't clamping force. Same pressure over a smaller surface equals more pounds per square inch of pressure, in turn giving you greater holding ability. If more surface area is better in a clutch, why does the surface area decrease as the holding ability goes up

Take for example a 2600 lb pressure plate, now lets say a full face disk has 26sg in area, that equals 100 psi clamping force, now take a seqment disk such as the CFDF that has half the surface area, so 13 sq in. You effectively doubled the clamping force to 200 psi, which do you think will be able to hold more power?

 

[nightspeed87]

Ive had the cfdf and its good , but i dont think i broke mines in correctly I started getting on it to early so mines never felt too grippy.

 

[illeffekt vr-4]

my centerforce has about 30k miles on it (20k from the previous owner and 10k from me). i dont know how the guy before me drove it but i launch it every chance i get and so far its holding up just fine and it hasnt caused any problems like the act2600 i had on my 91gsx.
on the gsx once i installed the 2600 the clutch fork broke, then the slave, then the master. then the clutch started slipping with not even 10k miles on it, and it was properly broken in by the way.
when the centerforce goes i'm going with a twin disk.

 

[airFS]

Believe it or not I'm actually looking at these clutches also and I'm leaning towards the cfdf b/c it seems more streetable than the 2600. Is there anything else I should know I mean I'll be replaceing the clutch/pressure plate, flywheel(fidanza too), TO bearing, new fork and ball, stainless steel line, but what do I need to know about measurements/step height?? I'm taking it to a shop so I want to take every precausion possible so the wont screw any thing up...

 

[flinguist]

If you get a CFDF there are very specific instructions for installation, and break in included with it. It tells you the step height required. If you get one and break it in properly it will hold plenty of power. Doug's Dynopower has some 11 sec. cars that use this clutch.

 

[airFS]

Ya, I read some of the stuff on RRE's site and I think there is like a 500-600mi. break in period and you shouldn't go full throttle until you reach that point...I mean how stupid can you be to drop all that money then just destroy it in just a few months because you didn't follow some simple directions

 

[YiNYaNg]

So let me get this straight.... you're trying to tell me that this clutch (6 puck twin disc) doesn't hold as much power as a single 6 puck disc.

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Get your facts straight.....

Tires are different story, they aren't clamping force. Same pressure over a smaller surface equals more pounds per square inch of pressure, in turn giving you greater holding ability. If more surface area is better in a clutch, why does the surface area decrease as the holding ability goes up

Take for example a 2600 lb pressure plate, now lets say a full face disk has 26sg in area, that equals 100 psi clamping force, now take a seqment disk such as the CFDF that has half the surface area, so 13 sq in. You effectively doubled the clamping force to 200 psi, which do you think will be able to hold more power?

 

[daren_p]

So let me get this straight.... you're trying to tell me that this clutch (6 puck twin disc) doesn't hold as much power as a single 6 puck disc.

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Get your facts straight.....

Well you didn't get it straight, you complertely miss read my post, I didn't state anything about a multiple disk holding less then a single disk. I was only refering to a single disk & their friction surfaces, which I clearly stated. I was compairing a single disk to a single disk, one with a full face & one with a segmented face or puck style, if you took the time to read my post Its common knowledge that multiple disks are designed to hold more power & these were not included in any of my references.

When replaceing the clutch its always a good idea to replace the TOB (Mitsu OEM, plastic sleeved), clutch fork & pivot. Also a very good idea to replace the flywheel bolts and the crank shaft seal. Might as well do it all when you have everything apart, that wasy you know it will last till your next clutch & everything will be in spec when you put it back together. SS clutch line helps pedal feel & are pretty cheep. As for breaking it in I think CF recommends something like 450 miles, I went about 600 miles with maybe seeing 5 psi max a couple times when I had to. Try your best not to boost at all, the nicer you treat it on break in, the nicer it will treat you Also remember 450 miles of break in doesn't mean get on the highway & drive across country till the milage is up. This does nothing to break the clutch in, it needs to be stop & go or city traffic etc. Thats why I did an extra 100 miles or so, since all my driving isn't stop & go.

 

[JeanDSM]

daren p are you some kind of mechanical engineer or something??? nice info...

i dont think i will be having a twin disk setup anytime soon but i think i will get de 2600. I will be replacing the crankshaft and cv seals. I will get the Force Performance bolt kit they sell and the extended slave. My other question is that what if i could build a -4an braided line, but a large one, from the master pump to the slave pump. not just from the reseirvor? will it work?

 

[daren_p]

Basically the extended slave rod is a bandaid fix for when other components are out of spec. If you replace the pivot ball & fork like you should & the salve & master are in good shape, there is no need for the extended rod. For the braded line I would just stick to the line they sell, usually around $20. This replaces the stupied factory resevoir thingy & the rubber line. The rest of the line to the master is metal tubeing, places such as SBR have kits that go all the way to the master but I believe they are $100 or so. Personally I think there are alot better areas to spend that money. Just the short line will give you a better pedal feel & it will be more responsive. If the action still isn't quick enough, there is also a restrictor in the slave where the bango bolt attaches to. This will make the action even quicker (less smooth), Im not sure if it reversable once you take it out, so its best to try it with it in first. As for the flywheel step height you want .608" to .610".

PS I had a lot better & more detailed post but I accidently closed the window I was typing in with this dame new internet explorer

 

[JeanDSM]

thanks but.. whats the pivot ball & fork ?
sorry, im from Puerto Rico and english is my second lenguage and i dont know what you mean.. maybe i know what you mean but can you show me a pic or someting to identify it?can i buy it new or better if a could find it aftermarket, better an oem?

 

[Eagle18g]

The Slave Cylinder pushes on the Fork and the Pivot ball sits in the middle and acts like a fulcrum. Then the other end of the fork disengages the clutch. As for which clutch to get I cant tell you what to get because I wouldn’t know. I’m looking at a new clutch too ad al I know is everyone has a different opinion. All the clutches will probably hold just fine some people just don’t know how to launch!

 

[LordZed]

If you get a CFDF there are very specific instructions for installation, and break in included with it. It tells you the step height required. If you get one and break it in properly it will hold plenty of power. Doug's Dynopower has some 11 sec. cars that use this clutch.

You can't really stress enough the importance of following the directions for this clutch. I have a CFDF and absolutly love it. I properly stepped the flywheel and broke it in for 500 miles. It feels a lot like my WRX's stock clutch as far as pedal feel, but hold's all day long unlike the stock subi clutch. Mind you, I'm running a very streetable car though.