About to finish thing belt, opinions appreciated

[juntjoo]

...as u can see by the pics. Does this mean the the exhaust sprocket is installed a little off or ...

Ultimately, do I want both cams in the same rested position like in the pic with both sets of cams pointed upwards before installing belt, BUT exhaust sprocket timing mark off a bit counter clockwise as shown or....

Do I install the belt while timing marks are aligned, BUT, exhaust cam slightly over CLOCKWISE, but then once belt tension applied the exhaust (and exhaust only?) sprocket will adjust back counter clockwise a bit putting cam shafts back in sync?

Thanks

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[SkyGrowsCold]

I stripped mine down sent it to the machine shop to get cleaned, pressure tested and resurfaced. One business day and $80 later I get my cylinder head back and reassembled but the head I sent them did not have any cracked valve guides so if you bent valves and cracked guides it will probably be longer and of course more expensive.

Note: They did not reassemble it for me.

 

[juntjoo]

Currently just waiting on my timing belt kit to arrive the head is all back together and in the car. As for where to look for information looks like you found it in the tech section. There is a lot of good information there so start with your leakdown test then decide which direction you need to go. If you need to take the head off and want all the information you can, like mentioned, read the tech section BogusSVO has some great articles and I used this as an excellent guideline in my rebuild http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/185236-head-removal-mini-engine-rebuild.html have fun and keep learning.

You did your head on your own? What did you so basically?

 

[Calan]

U did your head on your own? What did u so basically?

When it comes to the head, there is a lot that you can do, and certain things a machine shop has to do (or should do). Here's how I would break it down:

Jobs you can do with common tools and one or two specialty tools (i.e. valve spring compressor, straight edge, feeler guages):

1. remove/replace the cams and rockers
2. remove/clean/bleed/replace the lifters
3. remove/replace the valve springs and retainers (with the same springs; otherwise seat pressure needs to be checked if a new type of spring is installed)
4. remove and inspect the valves
5. replace valve stem seals
6. check the head for warp and obvious cracks
7. check for leaking valves

Jobs that a machine shop must or should do:

1. surfacing
2. pressure test
3. valve guide replacement
4. valve seat grinding/replacement
5. install new valves (grind, lap, check stem height, etc.)

I didn't include porting because it only needs to be done on top-end high HP builds, and very few people know how to do it correctly.

 

[SkyGrowsCold]

I'm guessing your "so" is meant to be a "do" so I'll answer as if that is the case. Let me start by saying I have two cylinder heads, one from the car and one that I managed to pick up that was laying around on someones shelf. The head on the car is the one that the belt jumped on, obviously, and what I did was pull the valve cover off and I saw that a rocker had removed itself from the lifter and valve stem so there was no need for a leak down test for me I knew I bent at least one valve. Next I began removing anything necessary to pull the head off of the block and once it was off I set it aside to examine it and saw it cracked at least one valve guide. Since I had a spare that I was told only needed valve seals I began to further look it over by pulling the cams off and made a valve spring compressor (there are a few articles on how to make them or other ways to get the keepers off of the valve to pull the springs) and stripped it down. The valves and guides all checked out so this one went to the machine shop to get further checked over and resurfaced since I didn't know its condition like I mentioned above. After it was back from the machine shop I reassembled everything back together and now I'm just waiting to order the timing belt kit to get it running again.

A little trick I used to get the keepers out was to take a semi powerful magnet and stuck it to a paint can opener which magnetized it and took them out after compressing the springs that way. I also put them back in using the same method along with a sandwich stick to hold them in place while pulling off the magnetized paint opener. Yes this is very backyard and low budget but works.

If you have anything else you want to know just ask.

 

[Calan]

I'm guessing your "so" is meant to be a "do" so I'll answer as if that is the case. Let me start by saying I have two cylinder heads, one from the car and one that I managed to pick up that was laying around on someones shelf. The head on the car is the one that the belt jumped on, obviously, and what I did was pull the valve cover off and I saw that a rocker had removed itself from the lifter and valve stem so there was no need for a leak down test for me I knew I bent at least one valve. Next I began removing anything necessary to pull the head off of the block and once it was off I set it aside to examine it and saw it cracked at least one valve guide. Since I had a spare that I was told only needed valve seals I began to further look it over by pulling the cams off and made a valve spring compressor (there are a few articles on how to make them or other ways to get the keepers off of the valve to pull the springs) and stripped it down. The valves and guides all checked out so this one went to the machine shop to get further checked over and resurfaced since I didn't know its condition like I mentioned above. After it was back from the machine shop I reassembled everything back together and now I'm just waiting to order the timing belt kit to get it running again.

A little trick I used to get the keepers out was to take a semi powerful magnet and stuck it to a paint can opener which magnetized it and took them out after compressing the springs that way. I also put them back in using the same method along with a sandwich stick to hold them in place while pulling off the magnetized paint opener. Yes this is very backyard and low budget but works.

If you have anything else you want to know just ask.

You really need to start your own thread instead of thread-jacking the OP. Nothing wrong with sharing your experience though and helping him out.

 

[SLIDER121]

You are making this way to complex. Use 2 wrenches so that both pins on the cam are at 12 o'clock(the painted marks on the cam gears will also line up). use zip ties , clamps or whatever makes you happy to hold the belt in place. install over the rest of the pully's set the adjuster. After you do that rotate the motor a 1/4 turn counter clockwise, then turn clockwise and line up the paint marks on the cams. Check your marks on the balance shaft if have one and crank. If it is all good put it together drive and enjoy. Yes it is so it is all timed or (synced) or you will be taking it apart again and replacing valves and possibly more.

 

[SkyGrowsCold]

You really need to start your own thread instead of thread-jacking the OP. Nothing wrong with sharing your experience though and helping him out.

No thread jacking intended. I guess I just took post #127 as a direct question as to how I handled my situation since I was quoted in it. My apologies for possibly reading too much into that one.

 

[juntjoo]

When it comes to the head, there is a lot that you can do, and certain things a machine shop has to do (or should do). Here's how I would break it down:

Jobs you can do with common tools and one or two specialty tools (i.e. valve spring compressor, straight edge, feeler guages):

1. remove/replace the cams and rockers
2. remove/clean/bleed/replace the lifters
3. remove/replace the valve springs and retainers (with the same springs; otherwise seat pressure needs to be checked if a new type of spring is installed)
4. remove and inspect the valves
5. replace valve stem seals
6. check the head for warp and obvious cracks
7. check for leaking valves

Jobs that a machine shop must or should do:

1. surfacing
2. pressure test
3. valve guide replacement
4. valve seat grinding/replacement
5. install new valves (grind, lap, check stem height, etc.)

I didn't include porting because it only needs to be done on top-end high HP builds, and very few people know how to do it correctly.

Awesome. Thank u calan. Very informative.

 

[juntjoo]

I'm guessing your "so" is meant to be a "do" so I'll answer as if that is the case. Let me start by saying I have two cylinder heads, one from the car and one that I managed to pick up that was laying around on someones shelf. The head on the car is the one that the belt jumped on, obviously, and what I did was pull the valve cover off and I saw that a rocker had removed itself from the lifter and valve stem so there was no need for a leak down test for me I knew I bent at least one valve. Next I began removing anything necessary to pull the head off of the block and once it was off I set it aside to examine it and saw it cracked at least one valve guide. Since I had a spare that I was told only needed valve seals I began to further look it over by pulling the cams off and made a valve spring compressor (there are a few articles on how to make them or other ways to get the keepers off of the valve to pull the springs) and stripped it down. The valves and guides all checked out so this one went to the machine shop to get further checked over and resurfaced since I didn't know its condition like I mentioned above. After it was back from the machine shop I reassembled everything back together and now I'm just waiting to order the timing belt kit to get it running again.

A little trick I used to get the keepers out was to take a semi powerful magnet and stuck it to a paint can opener which magnetized it and took them out after compressing the springs that way. I also put them back in using the same method along with a sandwich stick to hold them in place while pulling off the magnetized paint opener. Yes this is very backyard and low budget but works.

If you have anything else you want to know just ask.

Cool dude. Sounds fun. Most of it was a bit over my head but I guarantee down the road a bit once I get my civic in reliable shape (it's running now but still needs a lot of work before I can come back to my eclipse) I'll be referring back to this thread to check on all of the useful info you've all provided. Yeah, I put way too much into my dsm to abandon at this point to do anything but getting it running. I owe it that much. We have a bit of a relationship now. And I'm curious to feel how it runs after the tune up and b shaft-ectomy I gave it. Thanks again for the help.

 

[juntjoo]

Currently just waiting on my timing belt kit to arrive the head is all back together and in the car. As for where to look for information looks like you found it in the tech section. There is a lot of good information there so start with your leakdown test then decide which direction you need to go. If you need to take the head off and want all the information you can, like mentioned, read the tech section BogusSVO has some great articles and I used this as an excellent guideline in my rebuild http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/185236-head-removal-mini-engine-rebuild.html have fun and keep learning.

Wow, that's some deep s#$! I'm gonna have to just collect a bunch of resources such as this and read em to death while trying to visualize what I'm getting into before I even remove a bolt, what I did with the timing belt and BSE(saw how that went), then slowly start taking stuff apart. Again, lots of stuff to replace once you're in there. Should be fun as long as I don't pressure myself to finish b4 my other car breaks down again.