98 GSX Time Trial build

[gsxitement]

Got the parts pile adding up. Too cold here in NYC to do anything. So I just stock pile parts for now . Got some turbo gaskets, the new stage 8 fasteners and the fittings to convert to manual brakes.

 

[95eclipser]

interested in seeing how the manual brakes feels.

a lot of people have told me its so bad on the streets.

 

[gsxitement]

interested in seeing how the manual brakes feels.

a lot of people have told me its so bad on the streets.

I will admit, thats something I don't have to worry about. But. Talking with the folks at Chase Bay's, and they were saying the pedal ratio is what really gives you the effort, so when people depower their stock brakes and use the stock master the effort is terrible. I'll let you know my impressions.

 

[gsxitement]

Gonna start laying out the manual brake lines tomorrow. Apparently the weather is supposed to start rainy and kinda warm and then the temps are supposed to fall quickly. Gonna try and bang out at much as possible.

 

[gsxitement]

Rings came in. Rod bearings come in tomorrow. Hopefully get the bottom end together on Sunday.

 

[gsxitement]

Sundays looking good for getting the bottom end built.

 

[Black95TSIawd]

Keep on... I need some of your motivation...

 

[gsxitement]

Keep on... I need some of your motivation...

Trying man. It's been so f***ing cold and I was sick for a week or so, so I haven't been able to get anything done. Hoping to make some good headway this weekend. Get on it!!!! Gotta get that thing out!

 

[95eclipser]

More updatessssssss!!!!

 

[gsxitement]

Ok. Had a decent day yesterday. Got the cylinders honed. Got the crank spec'd. Started filling the rings. Over gapped the second ring in one the ring packs. My own fault. Just didn't check my filling often enough and over gapped by a ton. .005" OVER the recommended ring gap. So I'm hoping to get just a single piston ring pack instead of buying an entire set of rings. Also my buddy was by and ran the brake lines for the manual brakes.

And we had a little confusion with the crank measurements. When I built this motor in '13, I ran .001"-.0015" bearing clearance on the mains and rods. When I ordered the King bearings, I ordered them +.001" over standard and figured that would be .002".0025" clearance. We measured with the plastigage and came up with .003". So, after scratching our heads for a couple minutes, we started the take measurements with my dial bore gauge, and somehow came up with .005" clearance!!! After doing some research, we found that .003" is the correct clearance for these bearings. So somehow our math was off or the calibration of my gauge was off. So hopefully next weekend I can get the bottom end together.

 

[95eclipser]

I'm assuming you just used a drill and honing stone for the cylinder walls?

If so what is your impression of it? This home grown rebuild is pretty awesome!

 

[gsxitement]

I'm assuming you just used a drill and honing stone for the cylinder walls?

If so what is your impression of it? This home grown rebuild is pretty awesome!

Yeah man. Electric drill with a 3.5" ball hone. I have my technique down pretty good with it. High speed on the drill with slow strokes to start, then to finish, low speed on the drill with fast strokes. Gives you a really nice cross hatch at the end. Just hope I can get a single ring pack to correct my f*** up.

 

[95eclipser]

send me the part# for the ring pack. Text me.

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Great progress minus the cock up but it happens, did you warm the block up before honing it? I have read before some do for expansion reasons, i guess this is also taken up in the rings gapping or can be to an extent, not to clued up on the heating process vs machining etc

 

[gsxitement]

Great progress minus the cock up but it happens, did you warm the block up before honing it? I have read before some do for expansion reasons, i guess this is also taken up in the rings gapping or can be to an extent, not to clued up on the heating process vs machining etc

I didn't heat up the block, but all the parts were the same temp.

 

[gsxitement]

Got the bottom end together yeaterday. Had the Rolex 24 hour from Daytona on IMSA radio. It was pretty warm here, so I had a nice cold beer while I worked. Endgaps set to .023" top and bottom as per Manley's spec. Mains and rods set to .003" clearance. Endplay was at .003"-.004". Gonna order new headstuds and all the seals and gaskets I need. Trying to get the motor together soon.

 

[gsxitement]

More parts. Got a few more things that aren't in the pic. New valve seals on the way. Assorted gaskets. A few other things. Gonna try and get to the garage on Sunday and put some more work in.

 

[gsxitement]

After cleaning the shop up a bit, got a little bit of work done today. Got the cams out in preparation for doing the valve seals. Also got the new oil pump cleaned up and primed (lubed).

 

[gsxitement]

Valve stem seals done. Cleaned the head up a little. Torqued the head down to the block. Off on Monday, so I'll go do some more work.

 

[gsxitement]

A little more work today. Front cover. Cams and valvetrain's together. Hopefully get the motor done and in the car soon.

 

[gsxitement]

Just curious what other folks have done for cooling as far the thermostat is concerned. Being that it's a dedicated track car, is it safe to remove it fully? Or just gut the tstat mechanism and leave it in there as a restrictor? Any insight?

 

[arrowhead]

In all the cars I have had I have never run a functional one, I either gutted them and that has been enough , or put larger restrictor to reach desire temp, in some cases a couple of changes were made, this is all part of your ON TRACK fine tuning, it maybe be time consuming, and a couple of gaskets but very important.

 

[gsxitement]

Th

In all the cars I have had I have never run a functional one, I either gutted them and that has been enough , or put larger restrictor to reach desire temp, in some cases a couple of changes were made, this is all part of your ON TRACK fine tuning, it maybe be time consuming, and a couple of gaskets but very important.

That was the direction I was going in. Thanks for the input!

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

I spoke to the guys down the road who build race cars and the son also races,
He said the CORRECT way to do it is to block the bypass hole up, its thick enough to tap an NPT or BSPT plug in and seal it. This will push all the coolant through the passageway for the radiator.

Remember this will not warm the engine up fast so the tune will need to be adjusted to suit and letting it sit to warm up is more ideal to stop the air cooling the already cold or cool coolant,

Then you can gut the thermostat, just leave the outer metal ring as a small restriction for flow, but everything else can be cut off and removed.

Pics to show what hole to plug.

 

[gsxitement]

I spoke to the guys down the road who build race cars and the son also races,
He said the CORRECT way to do it is to block the bypass hole up, its thick enough to tap an NPT or BSPT plug in and seal it. This will push all the coolant through the passageway for the radiator.

Remember this will not warm the engine up fast so the tune will need to be adjusted to suit and letting it sit to warm up is more ideal to stop the air cooling the already cold or cool coolant,

Then you can gut the thermostat, just leave the outer metal ring as a small restriction for flow, but everything else can be cut off and removed.View attachment 534561 View attachment 534562 View attachment 534563

Pics to show what hole to plug.
View attachment 534560View attachment 534564

Awesome info. Is that bypass hole in the FIAV/ISC situation under the throttle body? And we spend time warming the car up in the paddock and in the false grid. So it should warm up no problem