'95 Evo III - Going a little extreme

[soldave]

Thats too bad about that other turbo, I cant stand dishonest people.
My guess is that it would spool up by 4k. You will find out soon enough though

Wasn't the seller who did anything wrong; was just USPS deciding to lose my package somewhere between California and here. Just hoping the claim comes through soon as this build has sucked my funds up too much without being down extra.

You know, it may even get better than 4k spool up. You know, I only have about 3' of intercooler piping from turbo all the way to the engine, which has gotta help.

 

[black_gst]

Wasn't the seller who did anything wrong; was just USPS deciding to lose my package somewhere between California and here. Just hoping the claim comes through soon as this build has sucked my funds up too much without being down extra.

You know, it may even get better than 4k spool up. You know, I only have about 3' of intercooler piping from turbo all the way to the engine, which has gotta help.

oh just a lost pkg...

well my HX35 in a full twin scroll and 16cm housing which i know is larger then your .84 spooled up at about 4100...the HX40 take a bit longer to spool but i think you will be right around and maybe just under 4k

 

[soldave]

Will see. Don't wanna hit full boost until my aluminium-rubber oil drain line is replaced with a steel one. It's running close to the exhaust manifold and could do without it melting at full 4th gear boost when exhaust temps hit 1600F. It's wrapped but even so don't know how hot it's gonna get down there.

 

[nfernotalon]

Not sure if you posted this but did you check your oil pressure for the turbo?

 

[soldave]

Nice question and yes I did. I was originally running a restrictor in there but after checking the oil pressure at the turbo we decided to change it. Think we went for a bigger restrictor - my buddy was doing that while I was doing some testing of ECMLink so I can't recall for sure, but we did test it and make sure it was set up right.

Fully primed before startup too.

Doing a bit more research into the drain line running close to the exhaust manifold. Was looking at this thread on EvoM:

Heat Reflective Tape "Gold vs. Silver" - evolutionm.net

If this stuff is what I have around the drain line at the moment (the aluminium part is closest, with the rubber connecting to the lower aluminium part not too far away either), then I might be good.

Might try and some of this stuff on some metal and apply direct heat and see how much is transferred.

 

[soldave]

And the finishing touch to the car: a carbon bonnet. Don't think it's any lighter than the stock one, but that carbon definitely looks the part.

 

[habitatguy187]

Not any lighter than the stock one? Geez I didn't know they were that light.

 

[tkrPerformance]

carbon hood looks good. the vis carbon hood I had was over 2 pound's more than the stock alum hood

 

[Sirnixalot]

when are you getting the trunk?

 

[Abe'sGST]

looks great bro, good job!

 

[98zx23369]

very impressive build

 

[soldave]

Car at the bodyshop getting new windshield put in (which I needed) and am getting them to do the Aerocatches too as I'm a little nervous about cutting into the carbon hood.

Once it's back I need to take apart one of the wastegates and just check the diaphragm on it as it's leaking a little while at idle. And I'm also going to probably re-make the top part of the oil drain line from the turbo before I really get into the boost. At the moment it's aluminium going to a rubber flexible part and then back to aluminium at the bottom. And it's all wrapped with heat reflective tape. My only little concern is that it passes about 1/2-3/4" in front of the exhaust manifold. I have no idea what kind of heat transfer would occur when I'm at full boost (which, as it's gonna be a drag car will usually be no longer than around 10s or until something breaks (probably sooner!)), but exhaust manifold temps would be around 1600F. The melting point of aluminium is 1200F or so and, of course, rubber is much less. My concern is how much heat would transfer from the exhaust manifold to the aluminium and, more importantly, the rubber. The heat reflective tape will have an effect, but how much I'm not sure.

The plan is probably going to be to remake the upper part of the drainline in stainless steel, and have a flange made up for it. It'll probably be overkill, but it would suck for the drainline to come apart because of temperatures or something.

 

[PSI_BOOST]

This is an excellent build thus far; congratulations on a job well done.

 

[sleeper-eclipse]

nice build and especially great evo

 

[soldave]

Thanks man. Down for just one more week and then it should be back up and running. Got my top of the range Blitz SUS filter to go on there, as well as one of the wastegates checking out.

Most of all, I just wanna drive it. Not quickly, not racing, just drive it.

 

[KHRacing]

Really a nice job on the car.
This also proves that EVO 1-2-3´s are cheap in Japan, at the right moments.
A friend imports these to Sweden and he has found several for just 4-500dollars.
Something to do with high taxes or high test-fees ?

what oil´s are you using for the rear diff, transferbox 6 gearbox ?

/ Kristian

 

[soldave]

They can be cheap. My buddy is selling one with a rebuilt engine (my old engine in fact) with 272 cams in there for $3000.

As for oil, I'm using Royal Purple in the gearbox, transfer and rear diff. It's the best I can get here in Japan without getting really expensive. Seems to do the job well too

 

[soldave]

I'm baaaack! And so is the car, albeit in a pretty poor quality picture.

So the good news is I now have a waterproof car, with a non-rusty roof, brand new rubber seals along the side and front windscreen, a carbon fiber hood, and the bumper is secured to the frame.

Things to do this weekend include air filter swap to my Blitz SUS, wastegate checking to see why one of them is chattering at idle, and arranging a full valet. steam clean, engine wash and polymer coating.

But every silver lining has a cloud, and it looks like my driver's side rear caliper is sticking. I'm guessing because it has been stood with the handbrake on at the bodyshop for weeks. After a normal drive back home for 15-20 minutes I could hear it cooling when I'd stopped and the rim was warm, although not too hot to touch.

Can't remember if I've rebuilt the caliper before or not. Am gonna try dousing it with WD40 tomorrow and seeing if I can free it up. If not then I might have to get a rebuild kit again and this time get a new piston to go with it.

And here we have pretty much the finished product by day, minus a couple of pieces of mesh for the front grilles. Only about 1/3 of the way through tuning at best though and still making sure everything is working right first before I get buried in the throttle.

And I still have plenty to do - the brake seems to have unstuck itself but I might have a minor oil leak from the transfer box. If so, it's probably from that seal going into the mission which I already have a replacement for.

 

[soldave]

A day of ups and downs as always with the car. Got my oil leak sorted and I am almost certain it's not the transfer case. Looked to be coming from where the turbo drain line meets the oil pan. Tightened that up and it looks like it might have done the job.

Switched out the air filter to my Blitz SUS which should handle any rain hitting it a little better than the K&N that was on there. I also took apart the wastegate which seemed in fine condition, although I'm not 100% the top of it is completely true (I know... buy XS Power and what can you expect). It'll do for now but isn't a perfect situation.

I did notice that my AFRs were going pretty lean when cruising. I like to drive around relatively lean but these were in the 17s and beyond. Checked and I've got a fuel leak where my braided line connects to the fuel rail. Couldn't fix it right so tomorrow am gonna try to get all new fittings and hose, and get it sorted. Last thing I need now is for fuel to be falling onto hot downpipe.

 

[black_gst]

Looking good, i cant wait to see how that turbo spools up, how does it feel so far?

 

[soldave]

Have done very little boost as I have a little issue with running lean at the moment (although I think my wideband is at fault). Saying, that boost response feels good... possibly too good. I was getting positive boost at 50% throttle by about 2800rpm. Kind of makes me think the housing might be a bit restrictive in the end for it. As long as it doesn't surge...

 

[black_gst]

Have done very little boost as I have a little issue with running lean at the moment (although I think my wideband is at fault). Saying, that boost response feels good... possibly too good. I was getting positive boost at 50% throttle by about 2800rpm. Kind of makes me think the housing might be a bit restrictive in the end for it. As long as it doesn't surge...

WOW! i didnt think it would spool up that quick, a .84 housing is still pretty large , its a common size for a 6262 turbo, well its the larger housing they offer and the HX40 you have is comparable to a 6262. I dont think it wall be a restrictive housing at all, you should have no problem maxing out that compressor

 

[soldave]

The car got the full treatment today: wash, claybar, polymer coating, steam cleaned interior, engine bay clean, and pretty much everywhere else you can think of polished. As you can guess from the pics, I'm pretty pleased with the results.

Thanks to Chris Willson at Travel 67 - Chris Willson for the last photo too - really pleased with how mean looking that's turned out.

 

[KHRacing]

.....

And I still have plenty to do - the brake seems to have unstuck itself but I might have a minor oil leak from the transfer box. If so, it's probably from that seal going into the mission which I already have a replacement for.

More probably the ventilationtube on top of the transfercase, you nedd to have the exact amout of oil in the transfercase or else it will leak fluids.

The top of the oil at standstill should be 6mm lower than the bottom of the fillerplug

 

[soldave]

I found a few things out over the past few days. First off, I shouldn't be allowed anywhere near a soldering iron again. Driving down the road, come to a set of lights and the engine just dies. Must be my lack of skills with the twinplate so I start it again. Dies again. Damn. Push car across 2 lanes to the side of the road and start to try find out what's going on. After about 2 1/2 hours I finally found out it was something electrical. Turned out a ground wire I'd soldered had come free which had lose me all power. Nice one, Dave!

And I have found out my lean issue. It wasn't actually running lean, or the O2 sensor on my car. Turns out it was one of the wires going into the wideband. When the bodyshop had stuck the gauge in place they'd put the wires in but one had almost come out of the connector. Pushed that in and bang, correct fuelling being reported.

A consequence of that is finding out that I was running hella-rich at idle. Like mid-12s at idle. No wonder I had a fuel economy which can only be described as "rotary-like" in my last tank. Have played around with it a little and have got it leaned to 13s or so but still needs leaning out a lot more. It's strange though - when I fire up the car (even when hot) it'll settle down and idle at 17-18 (i.e. where I want it for a nice lope), but then if I drive and come to a stop, the idle only goes to about 13 or so. Need to make a couple of logs and see if they tell me anything.