The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

95 Eagle Talon starts and stalls immediately

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Alchemy

Proven Member
30
4
Jun 13, 2019
rock springs, Wyoming
Backstory:
I was driving down the interstate, and all of a sudden my Talon stalls.
No biggie. Put it in neutral and try to start. Starts but stalls.
Tow it home
Tries to start again and gets tough idle for ten seconds then dies again
Now it just stalls immediately after starting.

I have replaced the Cam angle sensor, plugs, wires, coil, egr assembly, vacuum lines, injectors, fuel filter and pump, tps, iac, throttle body.
I have good timing, compression, and fuel pressure.

My thoughts are bad ecu. I go to check the inside for leaky caps. Lo and behold, it's filled with polyurethane gel.

My question is, should I replace and see what happens??
 
Well you have just about replaced everything else. And a ECU filled with jel, haven't seen that since Chrysler's Lean Burn computers. I would see if you could test with another ECU. Idk if Ecmtuning can dig that crap out and diagnose it or not.
 
You must be logged in to view this image or video.



This is not my ecu, but it looks like this.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
That sure reminds me of how Chrysler did there Lean Burn units. Idk why they covered the board with that stuff other than trying to protect it. Made it hard to work on but we still did.
 
I've known that stuff to be used as anti-vibration and to moisture seal them also, at least that was the selling point of the company making the goo/potting material, in the case of MSD its so that the trade secrets inside cant be copied I suppose but makes it non serviceable without chemicals to strip it. Nippondenso likes to do that with motorcyle/atv/watercraft cdi boxes also, I did strip one down once just to prove that I could. You should check the part number on the ecu to make sure it will work with your car, if it was made in 2012 it could just be a generic junk yard ecu that will run the engine but not run it right.
 
If it was the crank sensor it wouldn't even fire. And yes. Everything operates and I can keep it running if I spray starter fluid in it
 
Could be fuel pressure dropping. Test fuel pressure after engine has been off 10 minutes. It's supposed to stay there for 24 hours. Leaky fuel pressure regulator would definitely do that (either out the return back to the tank or past the diaphram and out the vacuum line - you could try pinching those lines while cranking to see effect). Those FPR's are so cheap and easy to replace I'd just replace it to see what happens anyway (easier than testing fuel pressure if you can't open up the line). Especially when you say spraying starter fluid keeps it running.
 
Last edited:
You need to start by seeing if your getting power to your injectors, then test to see if you are getting ecu signal to them using a noid light set that you can borrow from a parts store.
 
I had the fuel rail pulled so I could watch the injectors. 2 minute test and they all mist perfectly Moto. But when I have everything assembled, it just stalls out like a no feul issue. Could my exhaust or intake cam be out of time??
 
Did you try replace the igniter/power transistor yet? That would be my guess.



crank position sensor? it sucks to replace, you have to take the timing belt off. Although, you might be able to just plug a new one in (the plug is easy to get to) and see if it starts.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top