93 Talon TSi Rebuild

[NylenS]

Hey i have a 1993 Eagle Talon TSi AWD manual and the timing belt jumped a lug and the pistons hit the valves and wrecked my engine. I found a 92 talon with the same engine and am going to swap. I am wondering what i can do to make my Talon more reliabe and have more power. I already have a Evo 3 16G turbo, cold air intake, Three inch turbo back exhaust. reprogrammed computer and short throw shift kit.
Here is a list of parts i am considering. please tell me what you think about my list so far.
- Cevlar timing belt
- new fuel injectors. (dont kno what size)
- Spark Tech DSM Por COP CDI or new wires and plugs. Wich would be better?
- 38MM Tial external waste gate atmosphere dump
- Wideband air/ fuel gauge
- APR head studa and cometic head gasket
- punishment racing T3 turbo manifold. Will this make a big differente?
- New fuel pump... What size?
- Mangus intake manifold
- BOV... What type?
- idle speed controller... would i need one?
- new water pump
- Manual boost controller
- Possibly front mount intercooler if needed.
- Maybe throw on my garret 50 trim turbo if i can find exhaust manifold and fins for it.

Please guys let me kno what you think and what the best combination would be for my car. It will probably go into the shop between July 15th and July 20th.

Thanks

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

Hey i have a 1993 Eagle Talon TSi AWD manual and the timing belt jumped a lug and the pistons hit the valves and wrecked my engine. I found a 92 talon with the same engine and am going to swap. I am wondering what i can do to make my Talon more reliabe and have more power. I already have a Evo 3 16G turbo, cold air intake, Three inch turbo back exhaust. reprogrammed computer and short throw shift kit.
Here is a list of parts i am considering. please tell me what you think about my list so far.
- Kevlar timing belt
- new fuel injectors. (dont kno what size)
- Spark Tech DSM Por COP CDI or new wires and plugs. Wich would be better?
- 38MM Tial external waste gate atmosphere dump
- Wideband air/ fuel gauge
- APR head studa and cometic head gasket
- punishment racing T3 turbo manifold. Will this make a big differente?
- New fuel pump... What size?
- Mangus intake manifold
- BOV... What type?
- idle speed controller... would i need one?
- new water pump
- Manual boost controller
- Possibly front mount intercooler if needed.
- Maybe throw on my garret 50 trim turbo if i can find exhaust manifold and fins for it.

Please guys let me kno what you think and what the best combination would be for my car. It will probably go into the shop between July 15th and July 20th.

Thanks

What I hilighted in red, you don't need yet. I would reccommend following the upgrade path. It is a proven step by step route to making more power.

To make it more reliable, don't just replace the timing belt, instead replace all of the timing components (hydraulic tensioner, idler pulley, tensioner pulley, eliminate balance shafts, etc). Also replace the water pump while you are in there. Use OEM Mitsubishi parts for all of these. It is expensive but if you want to do it right and save money in the long run then you have to bight the bullet. Also in with reliable would be a boost gauge, wideband o2 sensor, ARP headstuds, and a datalogger (unless you are going to run dsmlink).

To make more power, MBC, ported manifold, ported o2 sensor housing, either a walbro 190 or a 255 w/AFPR, FMIC, Clutch kit, etc. From here, you need something to tune with and then the sky (your wallet) is the limit.

Since you already have an Evo 3 16g , I would just use that. No need to spend more money for a 50 trim.

Also keep in mind that to use a MLS head gasket you will need to get the block and head resurfaced to get a good seal. In order to do this you need to pull the whole engine. Also to run larger fuel injectors you need something to tune with in order to compensate. The factory intake manifold, BOV, and ignition system will work fine until you are making a ton of power.

Hope this helps!

 

[Coreyred95]

my buddy had a lot of issues with timing belts in his 1G. i'm not sure if he was using OEM Mitsu parts or not, but he said an HKS timing kit solved his problem with timing.

 

[94_TSi]

What I hilighted in red, you don't need yet. I would reccommend following the upgrade path. It is a proven step by step route to making more power.

To make it more reliable, don't just replace the timing belt, instead replace all of the timing components (hydraulic tensioner, idler pulley, tensioner pulley, eliminate balance shafts, etc). Also replace the water pump while you are in there. Use OEM Mitsubishi parts for all of these. It is expensive but if you want to do it right and save money in the long run then you have to bight the bullet. Also in with reliable would be a boost gauge, wideband o2 sensor, ARP headstuds, and a datalogger (unless you are going to run dsmlink).

To make more power, MBC, ported manifold, ported o2 sensor housing, either a walbro 190 or a 255 w/AFPR, FMIC, Clutch kit, etc. From here, you need something to tune with and then the sky (your wallet) is the limit.

Since you already have an Evo 3 16g , I would just use that. No need to spend more money for a 50 trim.

Also keep in mind that to use a MLS head gasket you will need to get the block and head resurfaced to get a good seal. In order to do this you need to pull the whole engine. Also to run larger fuel injectors you need something to tune with in order to compensate. The factory intake manifold, BOV, and ignition system will work fine until you are making a ton of power.

Hope this helps!

+10 on all of this!

 

[NylenS]

9!'clipse DOHC thanks for all the help.
I already have a gattet 50 trim turbo so i dont think it would be that expensive to put on. The BOV and wastegate on my car are currently siezed shut so i would have to change them anyways. Since i am throwing quite a bit of money into it i am going to change injectors so it is all new good and i dont have to worri about it because i know the injectors havent been changed for a while. Do you think it would be worth throwing the Spark Tech DSM on or is it just as good to change the plugs and wires and mpost of the ignition system. I am going to do everything at once or just keep it stock so i relyy want to kno if everything on this parts list is compatible or if i will have trouble with some parts. I am definately doing a stage 2 clutch kit and FMIC. I am not quite sure what a walbro 190 or 225 is yet since i am new to the DSM world but i am learning fast and want to make my Talon perform awesone. With all this stuff will i have to upgradt my T-case, diffs or upgrade drive shafts? If my pistons are shot i might put evo pistons in and new valves. Im pretty sure there is already aftermarket cams but if there is not i am going to put some in. Let me kno what you think and what i can do to get some real power out of my talon.

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

9!'clipse DOHC thanks for all the help.
I already have a gattet 50 trim turbo so i dont think it would be that expensive to put on. The BOV and wastegate on my car are currently siezed shut so i would have to change them anyways. Since i am throwing quite a bit of money into it i am going to change injectors so it is all new good and i dont have to worri about it because i know the injectors havent been changed for a while. Do you think it would be worth throwing the Spark Tech DSM on or is it just as good to change the plugs and wires and mpost of the ignition system. I am going to do everything at once or just keep it stock so i relyy want to kno if everything on this parts list is compatible or if i will have trouble with some parts. I am definately doing a stage 2 clutch kit and FMIC. I am not quite sure what a walbro 190 or 225 is yet since i am new to the DSM world but i am learning fast and want to make my Talon perform awesone. With all this stuff will i have to upgradt my T-case, diffs or upgrade drive shafts? If my pistons are shot i might put evo pistons in and new valves. Im pretty sure there is already aftermarket cams but if there is not i am going to put some in. Let me kno what you think and what i can do to get some real power out of my talon.

Did you look at the upgrade path? You need to spend several days reading and researching. Search the forums, there is a wealth of knowledge in here. Anything you want to do or buy, search it and read about it on here. The reason I say to follow the path is because it is very expensive to do everything at one. If you have the money then that is great and you can just do everything at once and not worry about $$$ like the rest of us.

What are you going to be tuning with (MAFT, SAFC, DSMLINK)? If you are running bigger injectors and a bigger turbo, you need something to be able to adjust your Air/Fuel Ratio (AFR). If you aren't going to spend the money for a tuner and a logger, then don't get bigger injectors. For $20 an injector Fuel Injector Clinic will clean and flow test your injectors, that way to don't have to worry your 450's being bad and you can spend more money elsewhere.

The factory DSM ignition is very capable. Replacing it before you are making in the area of 500 hp is a waste of money. I would recommend replacing the plugs and wires though, just as routine maintenance. Either the factory 7mm NGK wires or Magnacore 8.5mm. For the spark plugs, NGK copper plugs BPR6ES or BRR7ES depending on the level of modifications you end up doing. '6' is the factory heat rating, '7' is one step colder.

Fuel system. The biggest week link on these cars when you start to add boost is the fuel system. Without upgrading it it impossible to make power or keep from blowing your engine up. On of the first things you should upgrade is your fuel pump. The standard replacement is either a Walbro 190 lph (liter per hour) fuel pump or the Walbro 255 lph. They are both the same price, but obviously the 255 flow more and is better if you planning on running a larger turbo and higher boost levels. The only downside with the 255 is the added expense of an adjustable fuel pressure regulator (AFPR) because without one the pump will overrun the factory regulator and you will run rich (too much fuel).

What exactly do you mean by "stage 2" clutch? When picking a clutch you need to look at the pressure plate and disk. Are you going to be driving this on the street everyday? Keep that in mind when choosing a clutch, too extreme will effect streetability. An ACT 2100 with a street disk is a good choice for moderate hp, say 300-350. Anymore and you will need a 2600 or higher, depending on your goals.

Usually after about 400-500+ hp (less in some cases) drivetrain parts start to fail. To upgrade transmissions and transfer cases is very, very expensive though!

Here is a very basic explanation of how to make power, it helps to understand this when modifying. Boost = power. The higher boost you run the more power you will be able to make. So you need a boost gauge, MBC, bigger turbo, etc. To run higher boost your engine needs to be able to breath first. Free flowing intake, intercooler, piping, 3" exhaust, straight through muffler, ported manifold, o2 housing, etc. If you run too much boost without enough fuel your engine will run lean (to much air) which causes knock (detonation) and your engine will go boom. To prevent this, you need a wideband 02 sensor, fuel pump, AFPR, rewire fuel pump, fuel injectors, etc. However you can't just add more air and fuel because the ECU still think you have the factory turbo and 450 injectors. Therefore you need a logger to see what's going on inside your engine and a tuner to make changes to the ECU and keep everything safe and running strong.

I hope this helps!

 

[NylenS]

How much HP do you think that engine will crank out with that whole list done to it?

 

[1gcrazy]

THIS: Tech Guide: 1G 4G63t Upgrades - DSMtuners , which is ALSO the tech guide written above, answers your question... which means either you A: Didn't read 9!'s advice OR, you're not too keen. Either way, you need to visit this site...again. While your at it, check out VFAQ.com and 1000q.dsm.org.

I shit you not, when I was at that point where I felt so overwhelmed with questions about these cars that I didn't think ANYONE could answer all of my questions soon enough, I found those sites. Seriously, they answered so many questions and then helped me understand MORE than I even needed to know. Now, my dsm friends who don't post on here often, let alone SEARCH anything, come to me for advice... sad.

 

[Redwidow]

Another thing To look into since you have a 93 and are getting your motor from a 92, is weather the 92 engine is a 6 bolt. If this is the case, you may need some parts, if they dont come with your 92 engine. But it is possible that the 92 is a 7 bolt also so dont get too worried about it. I would just double check so you know what all you need.

 

[1gcrazy]

You can USUALLY verify that by the date on the door jam of the donor car. And completely verify by obviously counting the bolts on the flywheel.

 

[NylenS]

What would the dates be if the motor was a sis or seven bolt?

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

Mid 1992 was when it changed. Pre '92 1/2 had 6 bolts and post '92 1/2 the 7 bolts. Check out this thread to see the differences.

 

[NylenS]

SAnybody want to buy the car for $2500