93 Eagle Talon TSi AWD Auto

[J_HEATH]

Ordered some new torque converter bolts after I got back from the track since they all backed out on my last pass.

When I got them in they sent me the wrong bolts, they sent me Flywheel bolts. !!!

So I got the correct part number for the bolts and ordered them.

Bolt with the slits in it is a torque converter bolt.

Here is the difference>>

I mailed one of the torque converter bolts off to ARP to see if they have something to replace it. Even though they don't list or sell torque converter bolts for a DSM they may have something the exact dimensions as this bolt but sell it listed for another vehicle.

My buddy did the same thing when we learned that the tensioner stud on RB's are weak and tend to break. So he sent it off to ARP and they found something that matched it. Also same thing with the Flywheel bolts that ended up being the same as the ones they sell for a MR2 or something.

 

[J_HEATH]

Okay small update....

Here are some changes I'll be making to the car:

I sold the CNC Staging Brake and will be installing a smittybilt air compressor to help with braking while building the stall.

How this works is I will have it tied into the brake pedal switch and to a relay. So whenever the brake is pressed the compressor will kick on. On the side of the air compressor where it pulls in air for the compressor I will attatch a barb fitting and run a hose along with a check valve to the existing hose going to the brake booster. I will Tee into that line before the check valve going to the booster, So from the compressor to the booster there will be 2 check valves. I talked to Jeff Bush about this and he told me this is what he uses and is the way to go. It basically multiplies the booster by causing a huge draw with massive abouts of vacuum pressure. After its all installed, if its rediculas while any type of driving (tap the brakes, wants to sling me through the windshield) I'm sure I can put a switch in the circuit.

Next is something to spray the nitrous whenver I want rather than have ECMlink do it. Reason being I don't want ECMlink to say "start spraying at 3k rpms (to help build the stall) and cut off at 7-8k rpms. Reason being is because the whole time i'm sitting at the line above 3k rpms waiting for the light to drop of someone else to stage I'll be spraying a 100shot of nitrous. So with this simple thing I can spray at the line to build a quick stall, then spray down the track and stop whenver.

Simple attachment that B&M makes to go onto my ratchet shifter. It replaces one of the shifter handle pieces (5 total, 1 the base and 4 plates) with a plate with a button.

I'll be pulling the dash tonight and tomorrow probably, removing the heater core and some other stuff behind the dash to make room for the compressor and to wire it up and such. I also need to finish installing the trans cooler lines, and I'm waiting to get the center diff welded by English Racing.

I also checked the bore of the hub on the FD wheels and compared them to the Kosies since the FD wheels wouldn't fit on the JM Fab hubcenteric spacers that I have but the kosies will. The difference in the bore is 1/8th of an inch! So there is no point in trying to use a router to cut the difference, I'm just going to use a die grinder and a steady hand and take a little bit off the wheel and continuely check it by test fitting the spacer until it drops down into the hub of the FD wheel.

[youtube]v5F_vearJKw&feature=youtu.be[/youtube]



The next pass all the bolts backed out of my torque converter (they attach it to the flexplate)

This pass was a 7.1@89mph with a 7.1 60ft street tires, VP Q16, no nitrous (I forgot to arm it :facepalm: )

 

[J_HEATH]

Seen this in the latest issue of DSport Magazine.

Coverage from the 20th Annual Buschur Racing DSM/EVO Shootout

My buddy Chuck is behind me

Crappy picture, but started on pulling the dash

Only thing left is the bolts holding the dash in. I'll be removing the heater core, fan, and all the other stuff associated with that. Also the sound deading material and rubber padding on the firewall.

 

[J_HEATH]

Well, I've got everything except the actual dash out of the car. I'll probably finish that project in the next couple days and put it all back together, then 8'll just we waiting for my center diff to come back from English Racing. In other news, the end of the Buschur 20G is near. Either the end of this week or next week I'll be ordering a new turbo (FP3794), turbo manifold, intake manifold, built head, and other supporting mods. I'm also thinking of making the switch to E98, the only problem is no one sells it around here or E85. I'll be calling MA performance and seeing how much shipping is for a 55gal drum.

 

[Jorgen]

Great build, looks like you're staying focused even in the face of difficulty. Stick with it!

 

[J_HEATH]

Chris B. from MAP called me back with a quote on shipping its going to be high since it has to come on a freight truck with a lift. Also I'm sure it has to be hazmat certified since its carrying fuel.

Even still with the shipping being as much as the cost of the 55gal drum it is still waaaaay cheaper than a 54 gal drum of VP Q16 which I can get for the low low price of $700 OUCH! So E98 it is!

As parts come in I'll post up pictures and progress of the change in the setup. With the parts being ordered I believe the car should be able to make 700+awhp at 40+ psi. Hopefully with this I'll be able to get the car deep into the 9's and go from there. Time will tell....

Great build, looks like you're staying focused even in the face of difficulty. Stick with it!

thanks man, yeah its easy to get discouraged. If I get to the point of fusteration I usually take a break from it and come back to it after a couple weeks. I'm in no hurry to throw the car together.

 

[J_HEATH]

UPDATE

Got the center diff back from english racing and got it installed. Also finished getting the dash pulled and everything behind it. Also got the AN lines installed from the trans to the trans cooler.

I sold my IPT torque converter and now I have to drop the damn trans and get it out. Atleast this will give me the chance to install the kiggly front clutches. I talked to Precision and they are going to make me a billet torque converter. I'll be ordering all my other new parts this week. I'll update as stuff starts to come in.

 

[J_HEATH]

Got everything behind the dash gutted out, installed the vacuum pump, the got the dash and the majority of the interior back together. Just have to install the glove box and the piece that goes under the steering colum.

BTW, pay no attention to all the messy wires. I cleaned all of that up and tucked all of that away once I was done testing and making sure everything worked correctly.

 

[J_HEATH]

Well, I was going to take the Talon to the 1/8th mile track one more time last night before I tore it down for the new setup but fate wouldn't allow that. I took it out for a log and it died on me, I think the ALT is gone, and also I noticed oil on my timing belt and slung all in the engine bay. I think and hope it's just the front main or something simple. Also the passanger side axle boot got torn some how and slung grease, FUUUUU.......

I went to the parts store and got a new axle, Alt, front main, and rear wheel bearings and I think my rear driver side is shot. Go figure.

Well, I hope its nothing serious as I really, really, don't want to have to pull the motor. Also looking into a new converter as I just don't think the IPT restall will be able to handle the new setup. I was in contact with Precision Industries and they were going to make me a converter but then the owner changed his mind. So now I'm waiting to hear back from Bradco and Sinister Speed. Just wiating for this check to clear in my bank account and I'll start ordering parts for the new setup, hopefully monday.

I'll post pics and they come in, hopefully the wait won't be too long. I know Magnus has been on back order with their V3 cast manifolds, and it takes FP sometime to get the parts for turbos if they don't have them on shelf.

 

[jksmith]

nice car and setup, I just started my auto build, I'm going to have to do some research on the air compressor set up, never seen that done before

 

[J_HEATH]

AMS ported & polished head with oversized supertech valves, supertech dual valve springs, vaton valve stem seals, bronze valve guides

Magnus V3 cast manifold with heat barrier gasket, this will be getting powdercoated gloss black and the "Magnus" will get polished out.

 

[slow91]

^^^^ the magnus intake manifold if for ## 1g right??? if so then u going to be running it upside down. the place where ## throttle body goes needs to face the other way right??

 

[honda_burner]

^^^^ the magnus intake manifold if for ## 1g right??? if so then u going to be running it upside down. the place where ## throttle body goes needs to face the other way right??

That's why the plate for the throttle cable is on the top. Its just placed on the wrong side.

 

[J_HEATH]

^^ Correct, the "MAGNUS" is cast on both sides.

I got it powder coated today.

Still need to polish where it says MAGNUS.

Also pulled my old head off and ordered Kelford 280's and a 70mm Wilson TB. The cams should be here tuesday, the TB is on backorder 3 weeks. Oh well, the turbo is going to take 3-4 weeks anyways before I get it.

Eventually whenver I pull the motor for a paint job I'm going to snatch the harness out and rebuild it. I can't stand the freaking rats nest thats going on.

 

[kp116]

Looks like its coming along nice! A ipt restall will handle any amount of power you throw at it. Making it work with a large turbo however is another issue as far as getting it out of the hole. I lucked out and found a ipt 9" and this converter definetly does its job but I may look into a bradco converter for a little more efficiency up top. Just my two cents but I dealt with mike at sinister for a year and I am glad I no longer have to deal with him...

 

[J_HEATH]

Yeah I'm trying to get a bradco. I've messaged Darren Thomas and I think he's going to help me. I've had no luck with Jesse Abele through email or Facebook.

Yeah Darren told me he does not recommend sinister what so ever.

Let me know if you can get a old of anyone about a bradco converter, I have the funds ready now to buy one.

 

[kp116]

Yeah I'm trying to get a bradco. I've messaged Darren Thomas and I think he's going to help me. I've had no luck with Jesse Abele through email or Facebook.

Yeah Darren told me he does not recommend sinister what so ever.

Let me know if you can get a old of anyone about a bradco converter, I have the funds ready now to buy one.

Sounds good. I was going to try to get a hold of jesse soon about the converter so I will let you know if I do.

 

[J_HEATH]

Modern Automotive Performance A1 Ultra Duty head studs and Felpro Perma torque headgasket came in today

 

[J_HEATH]

Talked to Brad from Bradco today about a converter. I'll have one on the way in a couple weeks

 

[J_HEATH]

more parts came in.

Kelford 280/280 cams

Gates timing belt

IPT end clutches

Waiting on a bunch of OEM bolts and nuts, turbo, throttle body, and a few other things

 

[BoosteDsm1993]

If you still have that IPT converter for sale somewhere around christmas time (highly doubtful, but I can dream, right?) then I'll take it off your hands.

 

[J_HEATH]

I had to use it as a core fore the bradco converter.

 

[J_HEATH]

Did some tinkering in the garage this past weekend. I got the Kiggly front clutches I've had forever installed in the trans along with the IPT end clutch kit.

Also I've got the Kelfords in the new head and everything torqued town to spec. I'm just waiting on all the new OEM bolts, nuts, and washers I ordered for the intake manifold, thermostat housing and CAS to show up. I think since I'm swapping the fluidyne for a small civic sized radiator I'm going to do AN lines for the radiator and have the crossover pipe modified and powder coated along with the thermostat housing.

Also bought some new Craftsman digital torque wrenches for the build

Also,

The new head I got was missing the studs, nuts, washers, and lock washers for the CAS and the thermostat housing. Trying desperately I've been contacting OEM Mitsubishi parts dealerships, as well as DSM vendors with absolutely no luck. Well I bought a ARP exhaust manifold stud kit from my buddy and it didn't have the outer larger 14mm studs or bolts. He just gave me some parts store nuts and washers that he used. I could not accept this and researched and found that Extremepsi sells a kit that comes with 14mm bolts so I purchased it.

I also was looking at the ARP studs, nuts and washers that I have now as extra and was looking at the CAS and thermostat housing holes where the studs go. Well wouldn't you know it, the manifold studs go right in! So problem solved and a plus as I have bling bling ARP stainless studs and nuts now for those areas .

 

[J_HEATH]

Pics of the ARP manifold studs being used for the CAS studs and the Thermostat housing studs.

Again, the only reason I done this is because the head I got was missing the studs.

I bought new bolts for the thermostat housing, a new thermostat, and some OEM plugs to replace the nipples on the back side of the housing that went to the TB and to the heater core since I won't be running them. I'm going to weld a -16 AN fitting on the upper part of the housing for the radiator since I'm switching to a half sized civic radiator. I'll get the whole thermostat housing powdercoated gloss black.

I'm selling my Fluidyne that I just bought for cheap, $250 I'm including the brand new OEM mounts and bolts with the radiator. I just bought a new thermoswitch for it, also I'm selling the mishimoto hoses and I still have the T-bolt clamps that I bought for it that I never used. $50 for them if anyone is interested in them.

 

[J_HEATH]

Still waiting on parts to come in. Wilson 70mm tb, FP3794HTA, misc OEM parts, so on.

Got some OEM bolts, gaskets, nuts in. Since its about impossible to get anything new for these cars from the factory I'm buying and replacing whatever I can as far as bolts, nuts, so on goes since you can still get them. I've replaced every bolt on the head so far, as well as in the engine bay and on the block and trans. Waiting for some more to come in for the drivetrain and suspension. Beats the hell out of beadblasting or wire brushing hardware to reuse. I've probably spent close to $300 so far on OEM hardware.

Got my -16 AN fittings in, now I just need to take my thermostat housing and crossover pipe to my buddy to have them welded on. Also got a Kirkey seat and some other misc stuff.

Waiting to hear back from Bradco about my converter, it should be done or close to being done. Once I get that back I can install the trans then I'll put the head on.