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Resolved '90 Talon TSI weird ECU pinout?? No connection to diagport, no wire at all for pin 2

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Scrubos

Probationary Member
14
2
Feb 11, 2018
Marshfield, Missouri
Hello, title pretty much sums up my situation.

Just purchased this mostly stock 90 Talon TSI awd, this is my first turbo car, so it's all a little new to me, but I rebuilt my 4g37 1ga, for what that's worth.

Long story short, I've gone down the list confirming everything mechanical. Fixed all boost leaks, including TB shaft seals, set throttle stop, confirmed TPS working, etc. It idles great, but the problem I'm chasing is a quick blip of the throttle makes the motor bog down for a full second or so before it adjusts and recovers. A slow crack of the throttle hides the issue and it has no other signs that anything is wrong, EXCEPT the CEL will illunate for half a second under boost (or it might just be kind of random, it doesn't do it consistently, but always under load).

So, having chased my tail long enough, I hooked up a bulb to pin 1 and 12 in the diag port, and... Nothing. Confirmed 12 has ground, confirmed no short between 1 and 10. Finally pulled the ECU and was pleasantly surprised to find a reman from 03 with good caps and a virgin EPROM, BUT no hat flippin connection between diag port and pin 1, and more importantly the wire for pin 2 at the ECU is completely gone. It's not hanging in the wire loom at all. Furthermore, I noticed the wire for pin 1 at the ECU is yellow with a red stripe instead of solid yellow like at the plug.

WTF is going on here?

It's definitely a 90 motor, or at least a 90 throttle body.
I'm about to just run new wires, but don't know if I've got an oddball car (even more oddball than 90s in general), or I've someone just ape f***ed the wiring when they rebuilt the ECU. Maybe it had a socketed ECU at one point? I don't know.

Why on earth would someone remove pin 2 wire from the ECU and then just leave it? Can't be...

The car hasn't been abused per say, but the previous owner seemed to think an EVO 3 16g turbo was a good idea, but then never followed up with supporting mods. What I understand from reading other posts, this won't hurt the car, (he claims he drove it for about a year like this), but is ultimately kinda dumb without supporting mods as you aren't actually making more boost, it just takes longer to spool.

Can anyone confirm or deny? Is this accurate? Or has this motor potentially been suffering by leaning out in the high boost/high rpm?

Final thought, I was cracking the throttle under the hood the other day, and noticed that during the second of hang where the engine is bogged down, I can hear something happening up front, either turbo area, or possibly just coming from the air intake tube. It sounds like something getting sucked closed. To describe it, you blip the throttle and the rpms fall as you hear a faint sucking sound, almost like a quiet woosh of air, quickly followed by a little thud like the sound of something sealing shut real quick.
Is that the wastegate sticking open at idle? This is where my complete lack of experience with turbo cars shines, because I don't see how that would be possible with the spring pressure able to hold it closed under boost, but I have no idea if this even abnormal.

Any help there is appreciated, obviously I'm more concerned with my pinout issue right now.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Oh my god. Id10t error, I double checked my orientation like 3 times and never realized I was looking at the plug backwards. Empty pin is for ABS. PLEASE DISREGARD MY CONFUSION
 
Yep, that's great Steve. This is what I get for just downloading the first pinout and going to town like I know everything. Headed back out there now, we'll see if I can get these issues squared away.
 
Be careful connecting a light bulb to the diagnostic port. The ECU drivers for the diagnostic port aren't meant to handle the typical current of a incandescent light bulb. Multimeters, scan tools, Dataloggers, LED lights, or Piezo Buzzers are safe.
 
Thanks! Switched to a broken old analog meter, but it works enough to watch needle jump, she's working now. Code is 14. f***. Anyone know where to get a 90 TPS?
 
Don't assume a code means a bad part. Check the harness first.
Harness is supplying 5v, TPS sending back a clean signal. I had my dad hook up his oscilloscope, while I heated the TPS with a heat gun and it looks absolutely perfect. Discovered an intermittent idle position switch, and replaced it. But my main problem persists. I did not do a road test to see if it still pops TPS code, but at the point I'm convinced it's something else causing hesitation off idle. Any advice on where to look next?

To reiterate, boost leaks are all fixed, base timing is confirmed 5ish degrees btdc, compression is not great, but not the problem. TPS reads .57v at idle, I didn't bother adjusting for the twentieth of a volt. Have not tested ISC because it idles perfect at 750 and does not fluctuate when I add loads, lights, blower, etc. Runs out to redline with plenty of power and no other hiccups. I need to confirm idle switch continuity at the ECU, but to the harness is now good, and the wires are all clean to where they're factory loomed on both ends. Also, I mentioned the wastegate before, it's definitely not open at idle.
 
Harness is supplying 5v, TPS sending back a clean signal. I had my dad hook up his oscilloscope, while I heated the TPS with a heat gun and it looks absolutely perfect. Discovered an intermittent idle position switch, and replaced it. But my main problem persists. I did not do a road test to see if it still pops TPS code, but at the point I'm convinced it's something else causing hesitation off idle. Any advice on where to look next?

To reiterate, boost leaks are all fixed, base timing is confirmed 5ish degrees btdc, compression is not great, but not the problem. TPS reads .57v at idle, I didn't bother adjusting for the twentieth of a volt. Have not tested ISC because it idles perfect at 750 and does not fluctuate when I add loads, lights, blower, etc. Runs out to redline with plenty of power and no other hiccups. I need to confirm idle switch continuity at the ECU, but to the harness is now good, and the wires are all clean to where they're factory loomed on both ends. Also, I mentioned the wastegate before, it's definitely not open at idle.
You never really detailed your problem. You also have no profile so we have no idea what's done to your car.
 
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