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90 GSX Big Problem HELP NEEDED

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1990GSXEclipse

Probationary Member
17
0
Mar 29, 2006
Colorado Springs, Colorado
Okay so this is my first post on this site. I bought a 1990 GSX recently I had to reassemble the whole Motor. I installed a new Coil pack and all. Well I dont know the reason why the whole motor was dissambled but its all back togather now. And now I have ran in to the problem of, the car used to sound like it was about to start. So I thought I needed to Junp it, So i got my other car, and hooked up some jumper cables and all tried it, and nothing, it was spinning the crank and all, then i disconnected the cables and tried with out them and nothing, the crank isnt even spinning. I dont know the proble. I hooked up all the wires, all the wholes, the radiator, new coil pack, new sprak plugs and spark plug wires, 10W-30 Synthatic oil, I have one who i could not plug and is the whole off the Turbo intake that leads to the Blow-off Valve, The car is stock. Only has an Exasut tip. there is a new ECU for it and
So I have no idea to whats wrong wit it. it wont start, the battery is brand new...Please help me out.

Elvis AkA Tha Kidd
 
I'm sure the others have told you to do this already (I didn't read through every post), but here are some specifics for things you will need to check immediately:

Check these even if you "think" they are fine.

All specs are for a 1990. These do not apply to any other year, for anyone wondering.

Testing the CAS:
With key ON, battery voltage (or approx) should be present on terminal 3 of the CAS electrical connector. Terminal #2 should indicate 4.8 - 5.2 volts. The terminals are in the order "4 - 3 - 2 - 1" when looking at the plug.

The Power Transistor:

Connect the Power Transistor to a 1.5v (AA) battery via jumper wires. Connect the Positive wire to terminal 2, and the Negative to terminal 3. Measure resistance on terminals 1 + 3, then detach the Positive jumper wire and repeat. When you remove the positive jumper, there should be no continuity. Conversely, when the power transistor is energized, there should be resistance present.
That tests the 1 + 4 cylinders. To test 2 + 3 cylinders, connect the negative wire (from the AA battery) to terminal 3 and the positive to terminal 5. Now, measure resistance between terminals 3 and 6. Then remove the positive lead and repeat. Once again, you're looking for continuity when the jumper wires are present, and no continuity when you remove the power wire.

The terminals are in the following order, when looking at the connector: [ 1 - 2 - 3 - X - 5 - 6 ]

And The Coilpack:
Primary Coil Resistance: 0.77 - 0.95 ohms
Secondary Coil Resistance: 10,300 - 13,900 ohms

Here's a link to another post with a diagram of the 1990 coil pack: http://dsmtuners.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1822296&postcount=3
 
Okay so we got to look at it to day with a machanic. And the coil pack was good. that was good news So then we got to wondring why there was no spark. well it turned out that here was no fule going to the Injectors. So I NEED new injectors, and on top of that The Fuel Pump went out, So im odereing a new one tomorrow. well I will oder a Walbro 255LHP fuel pump tomorrow night. So thats good. but now someone needs to tell me how to replace the fuel pump. where is it located? and how do I get there? thanks all
 
Did you check to see if you were getting voltage at the pump first?
Not getting fuel won't keep you from getting spark. Fuel not reaching the injectors doesn't mean that they need to be replaced. Why are you planning to replace the injectors?
You should still check that power transistor.
Did the car run with the "new" ECU or was that procured after the car was apart? It could be that you got a 91-94 ECU in there and you need to swap the 6 and 14 pins. You also need to rewire the power transistor.
Here's a guide to doing that:
http://www.ecanfix.com/~mdhamilton/ecuconversion.html
Do some more troubleshooting before you start replacing parts.
 
1990GSXEclipse said:
So then we got to wondring why there was no spark. well it turned out that here was no fule going to the Injectors. So I NEED new injectors, and on top of that The Fuel Pump went out, So im odereing a new one tomorrow. well I will oder a Walbro 255LHP fuel pump tomorrow night. So thats good. but now someone needs to tell me how to replace the fuel pump. where is it located? and how do I get there? thanks all

Try this before you order a new fuel pump. Get a KNOWN good cam angle sensor. Swap it onto the car. Here is the logic. The fuel pump does not turn on until it sees a signal from the cam angle sensor (CAS). That's how it knows the engine is actually turning over. If the CAS is bad, it won't send a signal to the ecu telling it when to fire the coil pack, which would result in no spark (one of your problems). Also, the ecu will not send a signal to the fuel pump since it doesn't see a signal from the CAS. The CAS is directly tied into your no spark, no fuel problem. Swap it out with a good unit. This may solve ALL of your problems.


Here is a picture of where the CAS is located.

http://members.shaw.ca/dsm.1000q/Engineprimer/1G/cas.htm

The pic shows a 91-94 CAS, which has the removable plug right on the body of the sensor. Your 1990 will have a harness/pigtail running out of it, under the throttle body. It will plug in on or near the firewall, with a large black plug. Swap the CAS, and see if you get spark.

Your lack of fuel may be tied to the CAS. If your fuel pump truly is dead, there is no reason to buy new injectors, unless they all test bad. Here is an easy way to test if your fuel pump is good or not.

http://members.shaw.ca/dsm.1000q/Engineprimer/1G/fuelpumptestconn.htm

Pull the fuel rail return line off the nipple (located on the fuel pressure regulator at the end of the rail). Attach a hose to that nipple, then run that hose into a container. Connect an alligator clip to this single pin connector, then connect the other side of the clip to the + battery terminal. Once you attach the clip to the + post, your fuel pump SHOULD turn on. If it does not, then either your fuel pump relay is bad, or your fuel pump truly is bad. Easy way to test tho.


DevilSperm said:
Im not trolling for points like you.

Does this post win me any points?
 
I would check the ASD Relay or what some would call a MPI Relay which is right beside the ECU. Does it click when you turn on the key and does it click about 5 seconds after you shut down the car. Also get a timing light. makes things really nice. Also I might know your problem exactly being that the car is a 1990. On the fire wall there are two connectors that are the exact same. Me and my friend mixed them up or a 1990 RS-t, It is the plug in to the CAS itself. Try flopping around those two connectors and see what you have. Trust me it might all be easy. No need to check all these parts and spend time and money when it can be a little connector.
 
Also no fuel going to the injectors does not mean you need new injectors. I have never seen all 4 of them fail at one time. Find a new mechanic. No mechanic knows these car better then us people here.
 
I'm not very good with computers, so I can't do the fancy quote thing....

And I was probably typing my post one letter at a time when he posted what we needed to know. :D

There's very likely some power wires not hooked up!!!!

The best thing you can do is compare it to another car of the same year.

Conviently enough, I also have a 90 that I assembled from a basket case. I had a few parts left over ROFL, maybe we can find a place on your car for them...

I live in the Denver area, pm me and I'll drive my pile down and we can compare cars.

Good luck,
Toybreaker
 
okay the injectors are bad...like they are all broken and what not. and if u guys can come down. here that would be great, but ill check the CAS tomororw when I get home from school. I dont want n e one commeing down for no stupid reason. the fuelpump well i will need to upgrade it eventuly so y not now? Ill try and see if it is the CASand everything, but thank u all for helping me out.
 
that is what i would like to know
i would check with the your mechanic to see if he broke them because thats is very ackward.
 
ok bro some thing i noticed, you said by the drivers side of the fuel rail there is a single plug with wire on it? and another plug? can you get a picture of this? really i just about can garentee your fuel injector's are not bad, while it would be worth while ot meet some dsm guys in your area for help.. this is not a car you want to just jump into rebuilding with no experience, first are you 100% sure your timeing is correct? the cam gears align with the head and both dowl pins are at the 12:00 position, and your crank pully reads TDC on your timeing idicator on your t-belt cover,

so if that is all aligend what you can do also is put the passanger side end of the fuel feel line to the fuel rail into the jar and have a buddy crank it over to see if your fuel is properly working or not.. if not then you know your why.. remove the cover in the hatch area and see if you can physically hear your pump comeing on or not, if not then you know its an electrical issue, from that point trace the wire's find out why it isnt working ect... if it is working then you need to figure out why your injecotrs are not fireing at the right time..

the injecorts get their signal from the computer when to fire.. which gets its signal from the CAS, which also fire's the spark plug's, if your plugs are fireing properly and your injectors arnt you may have the wires switched (yes it happens) or a bad ECU,

as far as just throwing a new aftermarket pump in that is larger you need an adjustable fuel pressure regualtor because most aftermarket pumps outflow your stock fuel pressure regualtor. thats more money on your bill.. maybe try posting in the rocky mountian dsm section to get some local guru's over to help ya.. helps to bribe them with beer..
 
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