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6 bolt waterpump pulley solution

Posted by erikoberdorfer, Aug 28, 2013

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  1. erikoberdorfer

    erikoberdorfer Proven Member

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    Akron, Ohio
    Recently I was approached to design and build a waterpump pulley for a 2g. When relocating the alternator to the back of the block (6 bolt motor), the alternator pulley rubs the framerail. One solution is to smash the car with a hammer until it properly fits. Another solution is to use a pulley with the correct offset for the alternator (move it inward). This is the solution we came up with. It fits with some minor grinding and trimming of the motor mount bracket. The prototype is shown mounted on the vehicle.
     

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  2. 91-GS

    91-GS Proven Member

    915
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    Joined Jan 12, 2013
    Paris, Tennessee
    Looks really nice. What would be approximate price on something like that? Can it be slghtly different sizes (underdrive, overdrive)? Is it aluminum or steel?
     

    1K  0

    1991 Mitsubishi Eclipse N/T
    000.0 whp · 000.0 lb/ft · 1G DSM
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  3. erikoberdorfer

    erikoberdorfer Proven Member

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    Joined Sep 10, 2007
    Akron, Ohio
    I just sent you a private message about it. The pulley is 6061 aluminum material and is currently configured as the same drive speed as oem.

    If anyone is interested, I can make more for your application.
     
  4. J_HEATH

    J_HEATH Proven Member

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    Joined May 30, 2010
    Mobile, Alabama
    If you could make something to work on a 6 bolt motor in a 1G I would buy it. I ran into the issue while installing the Jays Racing Alt. relocation kit, that beating in the frame rail is required for it to fit. I would rather not do that to my car which is in pretty mint shape and I have a lot of money invested into it.


    Shoot me a PM or let me know if you could make a pulley.

    Thank you,

    Jeremy Heath
     
  5. erikoberdorfer

    erikoberdorfer Proven Member

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    Joined Sep 10, 2007
    Akron, Ohio
    Jeremy,
    This pulley is designed for a 6 bolt motor in a 2g, but it should work well in a 1g. It will allow the belt to ride on the inner portion of the crank pulley, and push the alternator away from the frame rail. If you are interested, please pm me.
     
  6. erikoberdorfer

    erikoberdorfer Proven Member

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    Joined Sep 10, 2007
    Akron, Ohio
    If anyone is interested, I will have several parts available at the end of the week. PM me for info if you are interested.

    Thanks!
     
  7. KyDSM

    KyDSM Proven Member

    116
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    Joined Nov 14, 2010
    Down by the bay, California
    It seems like you would get this to avoid modifying the frame rail. With the pulley you have to grinding away from the motor mount. Seems like a pricey pointless feature. But the craftsmanship on the pulley looks really great though.
     
  8. erikoberdorfer

    erikoberdorfer Proven Member

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    Joined Sep 10, 2007
    Akron, Ohio
    KyDsm,
    Yes one reason to get this is to avoid modifying the frame rail. A bit more explanation is below:

    1g 6 bolt in a 2g (without power steering)
    If you move the alternator to the rear of the block with a 6 bolt in a 2g, the waterpump/alternator/crank belt normally rides on the outermost groove of the crank pulley. In that case, the alternator pulley hits the frame rail. If you use this pulley, you will have proper alternator/waterpump/crank pulley alignment because you will move the belt to the inner groove of the crank pulley.

    1g 6 bolt in a 1g (without power steering)
    This pulley fits a 6 bolt so it should work for the 1g's as well. I would imagine that a 1g with no power steering and the alternator relocated to the rear would benefit. This is because the alternator and the belt would be moved far away from the frame rail and you would not need to modify it. Also, you would be able to eliminate the power steering pulley from the waterpump (less weight).
     
  9. J_HEATH

    J_HEATH Proven Member

    218
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    Joined May 30, 2010
    Mobile, Alabama
    Erik,

    Thank you very much for this great new part!

    It went on easily and did exactly what it was designed to do. It has the belt a little close to the oil pump gear bolt head but with some more tension on the belt it will clear easily. Also it's touching the mechanical timing mark indicator on the front lower cover, but that is probably due to mine being hacked up. I cut the cover up and deleted everything besides the portion with the timing marks for easy access and ability to work on the lower portion of the motor. I'm sure I can adjust and it won't be an issue. Like I said it is just barely touching it, I can either adjust the cover or the belt will wear it down a couple thousandths to allow it to clear without touching.

    The most important thing though, I didn't have to bash in my frame rail in order to run the Jay Racing alternator relocation kit! Which I am very, very pleased about.

    Thank you again for this great part!

    IMG_0019_zpsa1ea489e.jpg

    IMG_0021_zps97d80e53.jpg

    IMG_0020_zpsb1d0d50d.jpg
     
  10. 95eclipseSlow

    95eclipseSlow Proven Member

    124
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    Joined Dec 10, 2007
    Taylor, Michigan
    Okay you guys have me confused. I have a 6 bolt and a 2g chassis without power steering. My motor is still on the stand, but I have installed my saturn alt and jay racing reloc. kit. My belt is currently mounted around the alt. and the inner rib on the crank pulley. My water pump pulley is sitting directly above the outer rib of my crank pulley. I am pretty sure that the stock belt configuration is the same as how I have mine set-up except for the fact that I am missing my p/s pulley. So the other belt would run from the water pump pulley to the outer rib on the crank pulley and around the p/s pulley. From what I am understanding, your custom pulley would only be beneficial for me in that i would only have to run one belt which would go around the alt., water pump pulley, and inner rib of the crank pulley. I thought the purpose of your custom pulley was to get the alt. belt on to the inner rib on the crank? I provided a picture of my current set-up which I need to figure out a way to get a belt around my water pump pulley and the crank without a tensioner (p/s pulley).
    IMG_1285_zps0935ff0f.jpg
     
    95eclipseSlow

    449  0

    1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX
    automatic · 2G DSM
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  11. erikoberdorfer

    erikoberdorfer Proven Member

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    Akron, Ohio
    95eclipseSlow-

    For your configuration (no power steering, 6bolt engine in a 2g chassis): If you put a belt around the outer rib of the crank pulley (farthest away from the engine) and then to the pulley on the water-pump without power steering- you wont be able to tension the belt. This is the problem you encountered in the pictures above. If you use the pulley I offer, then you will have the crank pulley, water-pump pulley and alternator pulley on one belt (inner ribs of crank pulley), all tensioned by the provisions on the alternator relocation kit. I should have put this into the explanation above, sorry about that.

    If you relocate the alternator to the back of the block, do not have power-steering, and want to tension the belt, there is most likely going to be a fitment issue. The belt would ride around the outer ribs of the crank pulley, water-pump pulley, and alternator pulley. But, you would need to space the alternator away from the block. This would likely cause fitment issues with the alternator pulley and frame rail. If you cut or smash the frame rail enough, you might be able to get it to fit. However, the design of this pulley was (for one reason) to avoid doing that.

    If you want to run your car WITH power-steering, with the alternator relocated to the back, your alternator belt will be aligned to the inner portion of the crank pulley and you will tension it with the alternator. The other belt would be longer than stock, and go around the crank pulley, water-pump pulley, and then to a "spaced out" power-steering pump and pulley. I think some alternator relocation kits have provisions for this (spacers for the p.s. pump). The spacing out of the p.s. pump would allow you to tension the belt with the power-steering pump as you did in the oem configuration. This is a great solution, but requires power-steering to tension the belt.
     
  12. 95eclipseSlow

    95eclipseSlow Proven Member

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    Joined Dec 10, 2007
    Taylor, Michigan
    Yea so basically if I wanted to run it how I have it now, but with the alternator moved over a little so the belt could include the water pump, it would end up hitting the frame rail. I am definitely interested in your pulley. I will shoot you a PM. Great idea on this. Simple, but effective. What have the guys running these setups been doing for all of these years? Bashing the frame rail in is not practical for most people.
     
    95eclipseSlow

    449  0

    1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX
    automatic · 2G DSM
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  13. erikoberdorfer

    erikoberdorfer Proven Member

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    Akron, Ohio
    95eclipseSlow,
    I guess guys have been bashing the frame rail in, or otherwise getting it to fit somehow. To my knowledge it tends to interfere.
     
  14. craig4g63

    craig4g63 Proven Member

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    Joined May 19, 2013
    Bellingham, Washington
    Everything fit fine on my 1g without bashing frame rail. It's a tight fit, bit I can slip the belt between the frame rail and alternator pulley. It's likely just a tolerance deviation from the factory. Some cars will need it, some won't.
     

    Street Build 3K  0

    1991 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    automatic · 1G DSM
    craig4g63

    456  0

    1991 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    12.636 @ 111.430 · 1G DSM
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  15. erikoberdorfer

    erikoberdorfer Proven Member

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    Akron, Ohio
    Craig4G63,
    This pulley was originally intended for a 2g with a 6 bolt swap. In this instance, the fitment seems to require bashing in the framerail. On a 1g with a 6 bolt, it can be a tight fit between the alternator pulley and the frame rail when putting the alternator in the back. In some instances additional clearance may be needed. Using this pulley will achieve this without cutting or bashing.
     
  16. cpoindexter

    cpoindexter Proven Member

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    Joined Apr 26, 2010
    Tallahassee, Florida
    Please pm me the price of this pulley.
    Thanks!
    -charles
     
  17. Jdevil187

    Jdevil187 Proven Member

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    Joined Aug 3, 2014
    Houston, Texas
    Interested if you still make them
     

    Street Build 2K  0

    1993 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    automatic · 1G DSM
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  18. erikoberdorfer

    erikoberdorfer Proven Member

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    Akron, Ohio
    Juan,
    As I stated in the PM, yes I can still get them. If you are interested please let me know.

    Thanks,
    Erik
     
  19. copenhagen6123

    copenhagen6123 Proven Member

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    Winfield, Missouri
    Looks awesome!!!!!!!!!!
     
  20. Ryno1526

    Ryno1526 Probationary Member

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    Joined Jun 4, 2017
    Davenport, Iowa
    Anyone happen to have one of these pullies and are looking to sell it? Gonna be a bit before he can make anymore and this is the last piece of the puzzle for me to get my car going.

    Thanks
    Ryno
     
  21. Dkdisaster

    Dkdisaster Probationary Member

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    Joined Mar 27, 2013
    Holland, Michigan
    I messaged you about one of these. Would love to purchase asap!
     
  22. erikoberdorfer

    erikoberdorfer Proven Member

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    Akron, Ohio
    I am checking on availability from my machinist. I can still get these.
     
    TeamFury likes this.
  23. Bluefire16

    Bluefire16 Proven Member

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    Joined Mar 30, 2007
    Grand Rapids, Michigan
    Hey Erik I am interested in one also, pming you
     

    Street Build 861  1

    1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX
    396 whp · 380 lb/ft · 1G DSM
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  24. erikoberdorfer

    erikoberdorfer Proven Member

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    Joined Sep 10, 2007
    Akron, Ohio
    I have a few of these pulleys available right now. If you would like one there will be no wait time.
     
  25. Brembo

    Brembo Proven Member

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    Joined Aug 17, 2014
    Clifton, New Jersey
    Hello. Are these pulleys are still available?
     

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    1990 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX
    awd · manual · 1G DSM
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