The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support Kiggly Racing
Please Support ExtremePSI

6 bolt waterpump pulley solution

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

erikoberdorfer

15+ Year Contributor
153
39
Sep 10, 2007
Akron, Ohio
Recently I was approached to design and build a waterpump pulley for a 2g. When relocating the alternator to the back of the block (6 bolt motor), the alternator pulley rubs the framerail. One solution is to smash the car with a hammer until it properly fits. Another solution is to use a pulley with the correct offset for the alternator (move it inward). This is the solution we came up with. It fits with some minor grinding and trimming of the motor mount bracket. The prototype is shown mounted on the vehicle.
 

Attachments

  • wp pulley side v2.JPG
    wp pulley side v2.JPG
    25.4 KB · Views: 1,318
  • wp pulley front v2.JPG
    wp pulley front v2.JPG
    26 KB · Views: 1,320
  • 2g with pulley resized.jpg
    2g with pulley resized.jpg
    17.3 KB · Views: 1,398
Looks really nice. What would be approximate price on something like that? Can it be slghtly different sizes (underdrive, overdrive)? Is it aluminum or steel?
 
I just sent you a private message about it. The pulley is 6061 aluminum material and is currently configured as the same drive speed as oem.

If anyone is interested, I can make more for your application.
 
If you could make something to work on a 6 bolt motor in a 1G I would buy it. I ran into the issue while installing the Jays Racing Alt. relocation kit, that beating in the frame rail is required for it to fit. I would rather not do that to my car which is in pretty mint shape and I have a lot of money invested into it.


Shoot me a PM or let me know if you could make a pulley.

Thank you,

Jeremy Heath
 
Jeremy,
This pulley is designed for a 6 bolt motor in a 2g, but it should work well in a 1g. It will allow the belt to ride on the inner portion of the crank pulley, and push the alternator away from the frame rail. If you are interested, please pm me.
 
If anyone is interested, I will have several parts available at the end of the week. PM me for info if you are interested.

Thanks!
 
It seems like you would get this to avoid modifying the frame rail. With the pulley you have to grinding away from the motor mount. Seems like a pricey pointless feature. But the craftsmanship on the pulley looks really great though.
 
KyDsm,
Yes one reason to get this is to avoid modifying the frame rail. A bit more explanation is below:

1g 6 bolt in a 2g (without power steering)
If you move the alternator to the rear of the block with a 6 bolt in a 2g, the waterpump/alternator/crank belt normally rides on the outermost groove of the crank pulley. In that case, the alternator pulley hits the frame rail. If you use this pulley, you will have proper alternator/waterpump/crank pulley alignment because you will move the belt to the inner groove of the crank pulley.

1g 6 bolt in a 1g (without power steering)
This pulley fits a 6 bolt so it should work for the 1g's as well. I would imagine that a 1g with no power steering and the alternator relocated to the rear would benefit. This is because the alternator and the belt would be moved far away from the frame rail and you would not need to modify it. Also, you would be able to eliminate the power steering pulley from the waterpump (less weight).
 
Erik,

Thank you very much for this great new part!

It went on easily and did exactly what it was designed to do. It has the belt a little close to the oil pump gear bolt head but with some more tension on the belt it will clear easily. Also it's touching the mechanical timing mark indicator on the front lower cover, but that is probably due to mine being hacked up. I cut the cover up and deleted everything besides the portion with the timing marks for easy access and ability to work on the lower portion of the motor. I'm sure I can adjust and it won't be an issue. Like I said it is just barely touching it, I can either adjust the cover or the belt will wear it down a couple thousandths to allow it to clear without touching.

The most important thing though, I didn't have to bash in my frame rail in order to run the Jay Racing alternator relocation kit! Which I am very, very pleased about.

Thank you again for this great part!

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
Okay you guys have me confused. I have a 6 bolt and a 2g chassis without power steering. My motor is still on the stand, but I have installed my saturn alt and jay racing reloc. kit. My belt is currently mounted around the alt. and the inner rib on the crank pulley. My water pump pulley is sitting directly above the outer rib of my crank pulley. I am pretty sure that the stock belt configuration is the same as how I have mine set-up except for the fact that I am missing my p/s pulley. So the other belt would run from the water pump pulley to the outer rib on the crank pulley and around the p/s pulley. From what I am understanding, your custom pulley would only be beneficial for me in that i would only have to run one belt which would go around the alt., water pump pulley, and inner rib of the crank pulley. I thought the purpose of your custom pulley was to get the alt. belt on to the inner rib on the crank? I provided a picture of my current set-up which I need to figure out a way to get a belt around my water pump pulley and the crank without a tensioner (p/s pulley).
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
95eclipseSlow-

For your configuration (no power steering, 6bolt engine in a 2g chassis): If you put a belt around the outer rib of the crank pulley (farthest away from the engine) and then to the pulley on the water-pump without power steering- you wont be able to tension the belt. This is the problem you encountered in the pictures above. If you use the pulley I offer, then you will have the crank pulley, water-pump pulley and alternator pulley on one belt (inner ribs of crank pulley), all tensioned by the provisions on the alternator relocation kit. I should have put this into the explanation above, sorry about that.

If you relocate the alternator to the back of the block, do not have power-steering, and want to tension the belt, there is most likely going to be a fitment issue. The belt would ride around the outer ribs of the crank pulley, water-pump pulley, and alternator pulley. But, you would need to space the alternator away from the block. This would likely cause fitment issues with the alternator pulley and frame rail. If you cut or smash the frame rail enough, you might be able to get it to fit. However, the design of this pulley was (for one reason) to avoid doing that.

If you want to run your car WITH power-steering, with the alternator relocated to the back, your alternator belt will be aligned to the inner portion of the crank pulley and you will tension it with the alternator. The other belt would be longer than stock, and go around the crank pulley, water-pump pulley, and then to a "spaced out" power-steering pump and pulley. I think some alternator relocation kits have provisions for this (spacers for the p.s. pump). The spacing out of the p.s. pump would allow you to tension the belt with the power-steering pump as you did in the oem configuration. This is a great solution, but requires power-steering to tension the belt.
 
Yea so basically if I wanted to run it how I have it now, but with the alternator moved over a little so the belt could include the water pump, it would end up hitting the frame rail. I am definitely interested in your pulley. I will shoot you a PM. Great idea on this. Simple, but effective. What have the guys running these setups been doing for all of these years? Bashing the frame rail in is not practical for most people.
 
95eclipseSlow,
I guess guys have been bashing the frame rail in, or otherwise getting it to fit somehow. To my knowledge it tends to interfere.
 
Craig4G63,
This pulley was originally intended for a 2g with a 6 bolt swap. In this instance, the fitment seems to require bashing in the framerail. On a 1g with a 6 bolt, it can be a tight fit between the alternator pulley and the frame rail when putting the alternator in the back. In some instances additional clearance may be needed. Using this pulley will achieve this without cutting or bashing.
 
Juan,
As I stated in the PM, yes I can still get them. If you are interested please let me know.

Thanks,
Erik
 
Anyone happen to have one of these pullies and are looking to sell it? Gonna be a bit before he can make anymore and this is the last piece of the puzzle for me to get my car going.

Thanks
Ryno
 
I have a few of these pulleys available right now. If you would like one there will be no wait time.
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top