6 Bolt Swap 2G Head (Help! No Boost No DSM Link)

[erkitner]

So my 98 GSX walked and I've done a 6 Bolt swap with a 2G Head. After tons of research, and a few of my own oversights (1G Cam Angle Sensor ) she fires up and moves on her own power.

Here are my symptoms:

Idles fine but REALLY lazy on acceleration.
After 10 minutes of driving she suddenly LEANS out. Bad. Like 17. Then sounds like a WRX. (Obviuosly bad)
No boost. No indication of boost.

Positives:

Perfect indication of Water Temp, Oil Pressure, Vaccuum (again no boost), Speed, and RPMs.

Compression test: 180 across the board (No BS). I built her right.

Just serviced a couple days ago: Rear Diff, Transfer Case, Transmission, Oil Change (All Pennzoil). So she's fully serviced and all fluids good and in working order.

Here are my mods:
Evo III Big 16G Turbo
GReddy 24 Row FMIC
GReddy Type RS BOV
650cc Injectors
GReddy Turbo Timer
Apexi Full 3 Inch Exhaust (No Cat)
2G Head
6Bolt Block (93 GST)
Forced Performance Turbo Manifold
3 Inch Downpipe
DSM Link v3 (MAF Bypassed)
ECM Tuning Cable (2G OBDII to USB)
Manual Boost Controller
Extreme PSI Couplers
Eibach Springs
Magnus Motorsports CAS Harness

6 Bolt Specific:
OEM GSX Pistons
OEM 91 Galant VR-4 Rods (bored to fit 2G Wrist Pins)

Other issues:

I can't get DSM Link working. I keep getting a "communication failed". I configured the ports and my computer is using COM7 to run DSM Link. Device Manager is also showing COM7. I bought a BRAND new Tuning Cable from ECM Tuning (old one gor severed) but I'm still not getting the green light to turn on. WTF???

Also I found a broken part on my car and have NO IDEA what it is...or whether it's important enough to get my issues I'm having. I've posted a picture so any help with this would be appreciated. I was mounted by the firewall on the passenger side close to the throttle body. I'd like to replace it, but don't even know what to look for. Haynes has nothing on it.

The casting mark is:
K5T49683
7619
Looked up the number online and all I get is German stuff. ???

She starts, idles beautifully, drives like an NA 2.0 for 10 minutes then LEANS out.

No boost.

Turbo worked fine intil the walk. Have not replaced the turbo or anything like that simply because it was fine the whole time.

To sum it all up: No boost, No DSMLink connection with NEW cable all else is fine.

HAAAAAAALP! HAAAAAAALP!

She's my pride and joy and need her to dominate at 18PSI again.

Thanks, all.

-Eric

 

[Mr PopUps]

Its a solenoid but i dont know which one. I can look it up in the manual if you want.

I cant tell from your pic if its the EGR or EVAP solenoid

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[007jimmy]

That's the EGR solenoid.

 

[Hesh724]

well if your rpms are going up and you dont have any boost leaks the only thing that can cause no boost is wastegate or slipping clutch but that would just feel like no boost. your mpi or fuel pump could be gettign lazy for the leaning issue? or some setting in the ecu like "coolant temp fuel adjust" in direct access is off now for some reason? probly lazy pump tho. i would also uninstall and reinstall link to your comp just to refresh the install and files

 

[erkitner]

I guess I'll order the EGR solenoid and delete and reinstall dsmlink. See what happens.

 

[romeen]

So my 98 GSX walked and I've done a 6 Bolt swap with a 2G Head. After tons of research, and a few of my own oversights (1G Cam Angle Sensor ) she fires up and moves on her own power.

Here are my symptoms:

Idles fine but REALLY lazy on acceleration.
After 10 minutes of driving she suddenly LEANS out. Bad. Like 17. Then sounds like a WRX. (Obviuosly bad)

If you're using a 1G CAS then you might be getting a random misfire which can cause the car to run like crap. If that's the case then it's easily fixable once you get your ECMLink working. Is the check engine light on?

Also I found a broken part on my car and have NO IDEA what it is...or whether it's important enough to get my issues I'm having. I've posted a picture so any help with this would be appreciated. I was mounted by the firewall on the passenger side close to the throttle body. I'd like to replace it, but don't even know what to look for. Haynes has nothing on it.

The casting mark is:
K5T49683
7619
Looked up the number online and all I get is German stuff. ???

She starts, idles beautifully, drives like an NA 2.0 for 10 minutes then LEANS out.

No boost.

You should really do a boost leak test. The vacuum lines that normally attach to that broken solenoid might be leaking air and hurting performance. If you have a Pick'nPull nearby you can find similar solenoids on just about any Mitsubishi vehicle for a couple dollars. Those numbers on the solenoid are not part numbers.

You might also want to pull the intake tube and make sure the turbo spins freely.

 

[erkitner]

Yes. Check engine light is on.

 

[romeen]

I would start by figuring out why ECMLink isn't connecting and fix that. Unfortunately I don't have any useful advice on that. But it will allow you to read the code(s), log engine parameters and immediately fix some issues like a random misfire. If you prefer you can take the car to Autozone and they will pull the code for free.

 

[Hesh724]

Check the CEL with an analog multi meter till you get ecmlink hooked up. that will point you in the right direction to get it running at least. but if you fix the things it lists in the CEL. and it doesnt fix anything and if you still cant get link to connect then i would start looking at borrowing a friends ecu or buying a used cheap one off the internet just to test with. but the boost thing did you put on another actuator or anything for the turbo? or change vacuum nipples? make sure your bov isisnt opening. ummm what else??? test transistor, fuel presure regulator , ground for fuel sending unit, try some of that stuff and let us know.

Good luck

 

[romeen]

Check the CEL with an analog multi meter

I don't think that will work on a 2G, will it?

 

[LiquidX]

Try locating someone else in the area with a good v3 cable and laptop to try and connect. If they can, then it's your setup that's failing.

Did you have ECMTuning chip the ECU for you or did you do it yourself?

 

[miguelmcv]

I had the same problem trying Link to communicate.

Just turn OFF your laptop, hook up the cable to your car, turn the car to the ON position and turn the laptop ON.
Make sure to have your car ON and link cable hooked up before turning your laptop ON.
When you click on Connecting (Link), Check the light at the cable to see if it blinks, if it doesn't blink, then you need a new cable.

I replaced my cable 2 times in 15 days, I used to keep the cable inside the car, But was told that, the cable might be damaged by the heat of the sun.
After that, I start keeping the cable inside the house and have had any more problems with the cable.

I hope this helps.

 

[erkitner]

Good suggestion on Link. I'll try that tonight.

And yes, ECM chipped my ECU.

I'll do a freedom of rotation check on the turbo, too.

 

[erkitner]

Boost problem diagnosed!

So long story short, I did a freedom of rotation check on the intake side of my turbo and found it binding.

So I ripped off the manifold and pulled off the the turbo.

I was able to see the rotation by eye as well as feel this time around on BOTH sides.

It was binding and also had a slight oscillation to it's rotation. Obviously bad.

So now the fun part came in. Disassembling the turbo to find out exactly WHERE it failed.

I've posted a picture and you'll all be able to see what a fried bearing exactly looks like.

Ha. Funny, I imagined at that moment Jaimie Hynaman from Mythbusters saying, "Well, THERE'S your problem..."

Anyway, basically, after the walk with destroyed the rod bearings, it threw a lot of metal particles into the oil system and once it hit the turbo main bearing, fried it.

So I'm gonna be buying a new one.

Let me know what you all think of that.