BogusSVO
10+ Year Contributor
- 5,886
- 336
- Jul 1, 2009
-
Pensacola,
Florida
So the holes have to be no bigger than .510? but no less than .500? The oil feed hole has to be .500 though??
Yes... Just ream all the head bolt holes .500 and you are done.
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So the holes have to be no bigger than .510? but no less than .500? The oil feed hole has to be .500 though??
Yes... Just ream all the head bolt holes .500 and you are done.
That is the starter harness. The wires that are cut are the power and ground.
Thanks a lot! What would the 2 harnesses be for? Ground? It looks like they go inside the harness and don't come out anywhere?
Thanks to everyone that has contributed with this thread! I just need to get the little things clarified! I do have one last (I hope) question that I need some answers to! As some of you guys may already know I am going to be pairing a 2g head with a 6 bolt short block. This question pertains to the timing side of the short block. I am aware that the 2g motor mount needs to be trimmed, but do I use the 2g tensioner arm and pulleys? I just need a little clarification as to which 1g or 2g timing components need to be used? Here are a couple pics!
Here is my timing side as it sits now!
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oil filter housing look reusable?
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This is the 1g tensioner arm and pulleys. Would I even need this??
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I'm guessing I will need a new gear or does that piece just pop off?
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One wire is power which hooks to the terminal on the starter, one is ground which hooks to the bellhousing. The other ends hook to the battery. I would just take the loom off and remove the existing cables and replace them.
For the tensioner arm, you will have to use the 6 bolt, the pulleys are the same.
I would take the oil filter housing apart and soak it in some purple power than scrub it with a nylon brush to get it clean. You want the insides as clean as possible.
The oil pump sprocket will need to be replaced, that will damage the belt.
Clean all the bolt holes well. Chase all the threads, NOT with a tap.
Install studs hand tight.
... is there a way I can find out the compression of the pistons without removing them? ...
If the engine is not stroked, they should be 8.3:1. Right off the Ross Website ...
Ross Racing Pistons Products
If the engine is not stroked, they should be 8.3:1. Right off the Ross Website ...
Ross Racing Pistons Products

Search or call Ross with the numbers on top of the pistons.
There's a chance they will be 8.3:1. I have 9.0:1 Ross Pistons non-stroked
I really wouldn't worry too much about cleaning the pistons. Just take some compressed air and blow all the loose stuff off. For the deck surface just take a razor blade and scrape any residue off and wipe it down with acetone or brake clean. From there you will be good to throw the head on.

First is my crank pulleys. The pulley on the left is my old 2g 7 bolt pulley the pulley on the right is my 6 bolt pulley with the gear still attached! Could I use the 2g pulley? Next is my motor mount situation I know that I have to use the 2g motor mount and cut off one of the holes to accommodate the water pump! I'm looking at the tensioner arms! Would I need to bolt the 1g tensioner arm to the 2g mount? Or could I keep the 2g tensioner arm on the mount and just attach the pulleys?? Last the 3rd and 4th pictures! Correct me if I'm wrong but I don't even need these parts correct? BogusSVO....A true wiseman!Thanks a lot!
Well guys got myself in a little bit of a situation! I was going through my parts today and need a little help deciding what goes where!First is my crank pulleys. The pulley on the left is my old 2g 7 bolt pulley the pulley on the right is my 6 bolt pulley with the gear still attached! Could I use the 2g pulley? Next is my motor mount situation I know that I have to use the 2g motor mount and cut off one of the holes to accommodate the water pump! I'm looking at the tensioner arms! Would I need to bolt the 1g tensioner arm to the 2g mount? Or could I keep the 2g tensioner arm on the mount and just attach the pulleys?? Last the 3rd and 4th pictures! Correct me if I'm wrong but I don't even need these parts correct?
Left is 1g and right is 2g
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Left is 1g and right is 2g
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These are all 1g
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You are correct, use the 2g driver side bracket notched. You will use a 6 bolt tensioner arm. IT bolts right to the 2g mount bracket. You will not need the 1g roll stop brackets, the 2g roll stops bolt to the transmission.
Hey guys! Does anyone have anyone useful tips to remove rust from the outside parts of the block! I have rust on the front and rear sides! I want to paint my block but I want the best finish. Rust will just kill my paint job!
.I only wish BogusSVO would offer rebuild services... I know I'd drive up from Ft. Lauderdale.
Good Luck on your build!
WD40 or PB blaster and a green or red scotch scoring pad. Clean it real good and do some forarm stretches.