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513whp, Many Stock Parts

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nazthug said:
impressive numbers but im not fullly impressed at the boost you guys had to run , 38psi? LOL, thats a bit out of this world

I would like to see that power at maybe 25-28psi without the spikes

not too bad, about what i would expect from a built motor, cams, head, etc....

What i am impressed with is the power with the minimal tuning, as i think the car would probably make an extra 100whp with a standalone, i am starting to see the limits of the stock ecu with an afc...im surprised it even got there on just barely a piggyback :thumb:

Like I said before, the boost was all over the place, mainly because of the internal gate and the intake manifold. We had to crank the boost that high so it wouldn't fall off below 28 psi LOL. I'm not sold on a standalone yet, although I have a Haltech in the box and ready to roll. I highly doubt 100 more whp out of a standalone right now. The only thing I can see a standalone helping at this point is better timing control and sequential ignition. The fuel is right where I want it, timing is too. The stock ecu will pull timing when it needs too, no need to monitor knock. I'm going to stick with this setup until It stops making power.

Thanks for the props man, I hate switching to somthing new when its not needed, hence the stock intake manifold and ecu.

Nate
SBR
 
Nate, whats the psi on the spring in the wastegate?

If possible, put in a stiffer spring, like a 22 psi spring and go from there. Or adjust the rod in more and turn out the screw in the manual boost controller. That will help a ton and you will notice a better spool up.
 
red91gst said:
Like I said before, the boost was all over the place, mainly because of the internal gate and the intake manifold. We had to crank the boost that high so it wouldn't fall off below 28 psi LOL. I'm not sold on a standalone yet, although I have a Haltech in the box and ready to roll. I highly doubt 100 more whp out of a standalone at this point. The only thing I can see a standalone helping at this point is better timing control and sequential ignition. The fuel is right where I want it, timing is too. The stock ecu will pull timing when it needs too, no need to monitor knock. I'm going to stick with this setup until It stops making power.

Thanks for the props man, I hate switching to somthing new when its not needed, hence the stock intake manifold and ecu.

Nate
SBR
so for tuning all you are using is an afc and maf translator
 
gas_man said:
When is slowboy getting the 2nd set of dynapacks so they can dnyo AWD?

We're planning to take delivery of the other 2 packs early 2005. We do make VCEs in house and have one dedicated for the dyno if you want to drop the transfer case before then to tune!

Nate
SBR
 
Car Cannibal said:
Nate, whats the psi on the spring in the wastegate?

If possible, put in a stiffer spring, like a 22 psi spring and go from there. Or adjust the rod in more and turn out the screw in the manual boost controller. That will help a ton and you will notice a better spool up.

Its an adjustable internal gate, however the arm is threaded the whole way on the shaft, we actually added some threads, and the MBC is cranked in the whole way. It would help switching to a different internal gate with a higher spring rate, but at this point I'm just going to go external. You are correct, many people forget to adjust the arm on the internal gate, its better to add pre-tension there than it is to turn up the boost at the MBC.

Nate
SBR
 
blacktalonman said:
so for tuning all you are using is an afc and maf translator

Yep, just an AFC 1 and the translator.

Nate
SBR
 
SlowboyCSE said:
IF ANYBODY PUT THIS IN THERE FAVORITES PLEASE HOOK ME UP, I always enjoy reading about guys crushing big numbers on stock blocks, but a 7 bolt i'm throughly impressed condsidering most of them chuck the rods at 400 horse.

I'm not making 551whp on my 7 bolt but I did go 12.1 @ 114 mph on pump gas with a 50-trim on a fully stock motor that has never been appart with stock cams HG and bolts etc.. Thats pretty impressive for a 7 bolt IMO... 551whp on a 7bolt is not gonna last and we all know it, at least it sure as hell wouldn't last if I owned it.
 
Just an FYI, the shortblock from the car is now for sale, email me off the board for more info or offers. Going to a 4G64 setup thats awaiting install. Will come complete with head studs, oil pump, water pump, oil pan, pickup, and rear main seal. Around 7k easy miles on a 14b, and some dyno pulls on the 60-1.

Nate
SBR
[email protected]
 
Nate, nice numbers :) Some solid boost control will make a huge difference. 30-32 psi across the whole gear will make more power with less risk at peak cylinder pressure/tq. I gave up on internals years ago, for high boost... Slap an external on and redyno that toilet. :D
 
95GSXracer said:
Nate, nice numbers :) Some solid boost control will make a huge difference. 30-32 psi across the whole gear will make more power with less risk at peak cylinder pressure/tq. I gave up on internals years ago, for high boost... Slap an external on and redyno that toilet. :D

You are THE man.

That is all.

Nate
SBR

;) Thanks for the advice
 
It needs 38 psi because the 60-1 is a shitty wheel to work with. That car would make 550whp easily with the stock 7000rpm redline and twards 600whp 8000rpm with a t-66 or a gt-40 with the correct exaust wheel/turbine combo without issue.

I can see how Stalp3 would say the title is misleading, because it is. You have a mildly built block and a not stock head. The numbers are somewhat impressive non the less though.
 
DSMJim said:
I'm not making 551whp on my 7 bolt but I did go 12.1 @ 114 mph on pump gas with a 50-trim on a fully stock motor that has never been appart with stock cams HG and bolts etc.. Thats pretty impressive for a 7 bolt IMO... 551whp on a 7bolt is not gonna last and we all know it, at least it sure as hell wouldn't last if I owned it.

Not to make you feel slow jim but Ive just read modififed mag and they got a ek hatch with a k20 swap that ran 12.15, the only upgrade on the engine was those crazy throttle bodies they put on hondas. :p

Slowboy racing: GOOD JOB, BUT YOU NEED TO REPRESENT HARDER! :p

I wanna see this thing pull off 700whp, right now, do it!! (Shakes fist) :thumb:
 
coltboostin said:
It needs 38 psi because the 60-1 is a shitty wheel to work with. That car would make 550whp easily with the stock 7000rpm redline and twards 600whp 8000rpm with a t-66 or a gt-40 with the correct exaust wheel/turbine combo without issue.

I can see how Stalp3 would say the title is misleading, because it is. You have a mildly built block and a not stock head. The numbers are somewhat impressive non the less though.

Yes, it is shitty because Curt went 9.5 and made 620whp with it, must be the wheel. :thumbdown

The 66 or the 40 would not make that power for the same reason this didnt make anymore, internal gate and stock intake manifold. Peak power was made at 6100rpms, trust me it wasnt because of the turbo ;)

Nate
SBR

38psi for 800rpms imo
 
Stapl3 said:
With psi that high, you having an internal or external wg is irrelevant.

Can you read bud? It didnt hold 38psi to redline, because of the internal gate. So yes, it does matter.

If you want I'll throw a Tial 44mm on tonight and prove my point LOL.

Nate
SBR
 
95GSXracer said:
Nate, nice numbers :) Some solid boost control will make a huge difference. 30-32 psi across the whole gear will make more power with less risk at peak cylinder pressure/tq. I gave up on internals years ago, for high boost... Slap an external on and redyno that toilet. :D

You said "toilet"

LOL

MGH
 
coltboostin said:
It needs 38 psi because the 60-1 is a shitty wheel to work with. That car would make 550whp easily with the stock 7000rpm redline and twards 600whp 8000rpm with a t-66 or a gt-40 with the correct exaust wheel/turbine combo without issue.

I can see how Stalp3 would say the title is misleading, because it is. You have a mildly built block and a not stock head. The numbers are somewhat impressive non the less though.

Two DSM's have been in the 9's on a 60-1.... of course it will make more power with a T66..... DUH........ Thats sitting on the shelf for now.

MGH
 
Stapl3 said:
Prove me wrong.

Excuse you, Nate is only 19 years old and his IQ is three times that of yours... I am not so sure he needs to "prove" anything to you.

When boost falls from 36-37 PSI to 28 PSI because the IG is not capable of holding anything more at this RPM, WHP will go down with PSI. Its really that simple.

Keep up the good work Nate...

MGH
 
WHat kind of fuel system are you running to support 38PSI? I know it doesn't have to be as substantial since boost is falling off but the walborro setup we have seems to be running out of power at 33-35PSI, then again we run out to 9.5k

PS will call you middle of next week and let you know about the turbo and pistons we need Mike

John
 
JohnTSI said:
WHat kind of fuel system are you running to support 38PSI? I know it doesn't have to be as substantial since boost is falling off but the walborro setup we have seems to be running out of power at 33-35PSI, then again we run out to 9.5k

PS will call you middle of next week and let you know about the turbo and pistons we need Mike

John

Fuel system is quite simple, in-tank walbro 255, stock lines, stock regualtor, 750FIC injectors.

Nate
SBR
 
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