4G64 1g DOHC Head Into a Starquest: Timing Questions

[AshyBone]

Hey everyone,

I'm trying to gather bits and pieces for my build. I bought an "80% complete" swap so I'm having to figure out what's missing and needless to say, it's been interesting. I have a couple questions if you guys don't mind helping out.

I ordered the timing belt and everything for the 1994 Galant, I tried ordering the cam gears for it too, but those are apparently impossible to find anywhere. I've been using this thread:

https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/4...belt-tesnioner-pulleys.483946/#post-153456654

For my information timing wise, but it's a bi*** finding parts:
First, I have no idea what year block I have. I just know it's a 6-bolt 4g64.
Second, I know that the bracket to the right of the water pump (pleas see Darknezz7's first picture in the thread) is the timing belt tensioner arm, but the bracket to right of that is the one I'm missing. That's the motor mount bracket right? It's all One piece by the looks of it. Darknezz7 and BMXFelon420 have two different versions of that bracket. It doesn't really matter to me since I'm putting the motor in a starquest. The bracket won't be used and just might possibly be in the way. I'm trying to figure out how to get my hands on it. Does anyone have a part number or know what year it came off of?
Third, timing covers. There's a lot of back and forth on the site about what fits. I found the part number MN158387. I was wondering if there's some way I can use that but modify it to work for DOHC.

Some threads like this one:
https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/will-4g64-lower-timing-cover-fit-4g63.491316/#post-153504896

Say the 4g63 and 4g64 timing covers are completely different, while others say just use the 63 covers but since the deck height on the 64 is taller you're just going to have to zip tie it down. Other threads say the 63 covers will work but there will be missing holes. Can't I just drill through the covers to make my own holes, or will that compromise the covers?

 

[ThunderChild]

For cam gears you can get adjustables or run 4g63 gears remarked. Personally I'd just used adjustable gears zeroed out, 4g64 belt and use the dual tensioner pulleys (if needed) as shown in several threads. This allows you to run timing straight up as it should be. Use a cam gear locking tool when you set timing and there should be no issue getting it properly timed



The bracket you need should be the same as any other 6 bolt engine, they're the same piece that the timing arm articulates on. 7 bolt may even be the same.

Timing covers I'd just use 6 bolt pieces, they should still bolt on as most of the bolts go on the front case and all the deck height added is at the top of the block. You could modify the tin plates that the cover bolts to with new nuts on the backside if you wanted to. It's only 6mm difference in deck height.

 

[AshyBone]

Thank you very much for all the information. The details about the timing covers and the bracket specifically. I might have found someone in a facebook 4g63 group that might have the 4g64 bracket so I think I might be good there. I also have a couple people saying they have the 4g64 cam gears. Even if they don't. As far as I can tell, all it's going to do if I do run a regular timing set up is advance the timing on both cams by half a tooth. I'll post a ton of pictures to make sure I got it right if it comes down to that.

Again, thanks for the info.

 

[ThunderChild]

Thank you very much for all the information. The details about the timing covers and the bracket specifically. I might have found someone in a facebook 4g63 group that might have the 4g64 bracket so I think I might be good there. I also have a couple people saying they have the 4g64 cam gears. Even if they don't. As far as I can tell, all it's going to do if I do run a regular timing set up is advance the timing on both cams by half a tooth. I'll post a ton of pictures to make sure I got it right if it comes down to that.

Again, thanks for the info.

Correct, if you run a standard 4g63 belt you will have to advance the cams some to account for this, and timing marks won't line up perfectly. This situation would be a good time to use adjustable gears to account for the misalignment.

Post up your progress, I'm still a bit from doing mine but I've been researching for years. Good luck!

 

[AshyBone]

This is my project so far:

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I just realized today that I'm going to run into a couple issues with the HX35 where it is. The water pump outlet and the alternator are gonna want to take up that room. So I'm going to have to start hunting down a top mount t3/t4 exhaust manifold that won't break the bank. The DNP manifold is lookin like my best choice.

 

[ThunderChild]

Looking good. Could always do an alternator relocation and weld a 90⁰ on the water pump, that's make room for the turbo as-is.

 

[AshyBone]

Here's what it looks like in a Starion (not my build. It's from the starquest forums). I'm trying to keep things as simple as possible. The other side of the block is where the power steering pump is. If I have to move the alternator then I'll have to move the power steering pump. I feel like it'll just be easier to just go with a top mounted exhaust manifold for the turbo so everything can be out of the way. Pictured is how someone else did it with using the parts he had laying around the house. He knew it wasn't THE BEST way to go with things, but it ended up working for him. I'll go with an L hose that runs along the bay going from the water pump to the radiator so I can avoid the alternator and the drive belt.

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