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General 4G63T running Rich and a running little higher than idle

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903_DSM_GST

Probationary Member
13
1
Sep 20, 2023
Athens, Texas
Hello everyone I have a 98 Eclipse Spyder with a 97 4g63t 7 bolt motor from another Spyder GST that had major body damage. So we swapped motors and today it fired up and ran but the car is running a fuel pump rewire kit so the pump is constantly on when operation but we are dumping black smoke out the exhaust and within the normal idle range of 800-1000 it wants to stall out but it sets fine at 1300. Any advice helps. Thanks

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What did you do you to fix the compression problems in cyl 4? What are the compression numbers now across all of them?

I note from the the video that you're running a BOV vented to ATM and a MAF. That usually cause some issues.
 

What did you do you to fix the compression problems in cyl 4? What are the compression numbers now across all of them?

I note from the the video that you're running a BOV vented to ATM and a MAF. That usually cause some issues.
The compression numbers originally were zero then 60 60 60 so what we did is we popped the head off and replaced and lapped the valves and now the compression numbers are 180 180 175 165 so we are definitely good on compression and good on timing and I looked at some photos I had of a stock 4G63t and it had a vacuum line from the blow valve directly to the intake manifold.

And another thing we found out is that the car has aftermarket camshaft’s from HKS so that would explain why it would want to stall out in normal stock operating range between 800 and 1000 when the duration and lobes may be around 13 to 1500 for it to operate properly.

But here’s a general question I do have because we are running a rewired fuel pump and it’s somewhat runs decent whenever the fuel pump is on but once we turn the fuel pump off the car spikes up in idle and then it’ll die. I’m thinking we may have done the rewire wrong or there may be something else that could be wrong.
 
I looked at some photos I had of a stock 4G63t and it had a vacuum line from the blow valve directly to the intake manifold.

I don't think you understood. I'm not talking about the vacuum line between the BOV and Intake Manifold. I'm talking about the how your aftermarket BOV has a horn on it's outlet and the tube from the MAF to the turbo inlet is plugged when it should run to the BOV so there isn't a chance of sucking in unmeasured air or venting the metered air when it goes Pshh. :)

Those must be pretty big cams if you can't get the car to idle below 1300 rpm.
 
I don't think you understood. I'm not talking about the vacuum line between the BOV and Intake Manifold. I'm talking about the how your aftermarket BOV has a horn on it's outlet and the tube from the MAF to the turbo inlet is plugged when it should run to the BOV so there isn't a chance of sucking in unmeasured air or venting the metered air when it goes Pshh. :)

Those must be pretty big cams if you can't get the car to idle below 1300 rpm.
This is the same engine 2 to 3 years ago in a different car and it had a blow valve or it did not have a horn but a big gap, but the intake port is still plugged, but it was running just fine and the ringing you hear in the video is the grenade tensioner not fully seated so it’s just ringing


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The compression numbers originally were zero then 60 60 60 so what we did is we popped the head off and replaced and lapped the valves and now the compression numbers are 180 180 175 165 so we are definitely good on compression and good on timing and I looked at some photos I had of a stock 4G63t
Please mark another post as resolved.

And another thing we found out is that the car has aftermarket camshaft’s from HKS so that would explain why it would want to stall out in normal stock operating range between 800 and 1000 when the duration and lobes may be around 13 to 1500 for it to operate properly.
What HKS cams? You can definitely make the idle somewhere around 800-1000 with the HKS 264/272/280 cams. I think the issue is something else. Please upload a pic of timing side to let us see the timing.

it had a vacuum line from the blow valve directly to the intake manifold.
What Steve is talking about is where the green circle is. The correct way is you recirculate the BOV to the intake pipe.
While it's idling, take a video or a pic inside the BOV. If you didn't adjust the BOV properly, maybe the BOV stays open due to the spring adjustment too soft and cause the engine gets unmetered air and that would cause the idle and rev unstable, also cause to stall when rev down.
If that's the case, loosen the lock nut on the BOV and tighten the bolt until the valve get closed. That may make the idle better.


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Please mark another post as resolved.


What HKS cams? You can definitely make the idle somewhere around 800-1000 with the HKS 264/272/280 cams. I think the issue is something else. Please upload a pic of timing side to let us see the timing.


What Steve is talking about is where the green circle is. The correct way is you recirculate the BOV to the intake pipe.
While it's idling, take a video or a pic inside the BOV. If you didn't adjust the BOV properly, maybe the BOV stays open due to the spring adjustment too soft and cause the engine gets unmetered air and that would cause the idle and rev unstable, also cause to stall when rev down.
If that's the case, loosen the lock nut on the BOV and tighten the bolt until the valve get closed. That may make the idle better.


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When I get a chance to do that I will we just cleaned it up for tonight and we’re gonna work on it a little bit more tomorrow
 
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