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4g63 to 4g64 swap

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Thanks, just looking to see if anyone makes pistons for 162mm rods/94mm crank/ 2.4 block.
If they did it would probably be a high compression piston.

With any given crank and block, the longest rod you can use depends on the piston's compression height. If you use a standard stroker style piston (which has 6mm shorter compression height than stock) the longest rod you can use with the 94mm crank is 159-160mm, depending on headgasket thickness and a couple of other variables.

To use a 162mm rod with a 94mm crank (and not seriously increase compression ratio) you'd have to get a custom piston made with 9mm shorter than stock compression height. This is theoretically doable from what I've heard, but it would move the pin up into the oil ring groove and severely weaken the piston's overall strength.
 
got some pics of my 4g64 motor! notice its already threaded for a knock sensor and it doesnt have the holes to be filled in on the block, like the SOHC. the stock rods look like they are the same as a 7-bolt 4G63, they have G6 stamped on them.
 

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All 4g64 7 bolt rods are the same as 4g63 7 bolt rods. I think we discussed that previously.
The pistons are the same aside from the 4g63 being 85mm and the 4g64 being 86.5mm which is .060 oversize.

I've not proven it yet, but I'm also positive that the 4g64 and 4g63 share the same front cover, water pump, and etc.
 
All 4g64 7 bolt rods are the same as 4g63 7 bolt rods. I think we discussed that previously.
The pistons are the same aside from the 4g63 being 85mm and the 4g64 being 86.5mm which is .060 oversize.

I've not proven it yet, but I'm also positive that the 4g64 and 4g63 share the same front cover, water pump, and etc.

What about the oil filter housing, i know its differant, but would it be safe to reuse, it doesn't have the oil cooler on it, just a spot to add an external air oil cooler, i would much rather have the one without the coolant oil cooler on it.
 
You can use the 4g64 oil filter housing if you want, just make sure you have a way to cool and filter your oil properly.
 
Well, Time for an update...

UPS delivered my pistons that I ordered from SBR... Thanks Oliver :thumb:

I also have come to believe my 4g64 block is from a 98 Galant (7G) which is the same as the 2G DSM Spyder... I'm not too sure, and really have no way to prove it but just from reading, and talking to some people they are positive the 4g64 block in the 8G galant is NOT the same as the older series. I'm still trying to prove it though.

The block, girdle and pistons are now at the machine shop, as well as a spare crank I am having polished up. Things are moving right along :)

I'm still stuck in a problem with figuring out this H2E Turbo. I just have no idea what I'm going to do because I'd like to have it dismantled, cleaned up, and if it needs a rebuild then that too. I'm no turbo guy, I know nothing about them but I would be very happy to have it taken care of by someone I can trust, and who wont rip me blind.

Anyway, more to come soon when I'm not tired.
 
Nice to see the 4g64 being built.

Here's some pics on my build

Its a 2.4L 4g64 out of a 1999 eclipse spyder gs so it has the split thrust washers.
eagle h-beams
eagle forged chromoly crank
Wiseco .020 over forged pistons

and yes im keeping it a single cam... for now
 

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First off let me say, congratulations on the 4g64 build.

Second, I was curious about the area on your cylinder walls in the first picture... Is that oil, or what?


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nice build, if you guys look closer that's assembly lube, its red. don't want that nice cross hatching to rust over. My question is what does the split washer thrust bearing look like?
 
Its actually type f automatic trans fluid. I used this because the wiseco tech recommended it for the assembly.

As for the split washers, im trying to look for some pics but ill tell you that the blocks with split thrust washers will only have reciever grooves on middle journal on the block. The blocks that use the thrust bearing/main bearing will have grooves on both the block and the main girdle.

The reason being that im keeping the head sohc is just because i built that head awhile ago with some nice parts and i didnt want to waste all that work. Rest assured, i am building a twin cam head. I just need more time.
 
Here you can see the top 3 pieces of the thrust bearing for the "split" thrust bearing. You have the center piece which goes in the journal, and then the 2 side pieces that go on the side of the top thrust bearing.

Top/Front.


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Heres a pic of a 7bolt 4g64 with a thrust bearing. Pretty much what all 7bolt 4g63/64's had until 97. Notice the groove on the block and the girdle, this is where the thrust bearing part of the main bearing/thrust bearing sits in. In a 7 bolt 4g63/64 with the split thrust washer there will be no groove on the girdle.
 

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Update for anyone who is keeping tabs... I'm still waiting on the machine shop to get the block done so I can assemble it. The shop called this week telling me things have been so busy with it also being the drag-race off season and well, being a very large drag race community, money talks, and since the shop I'm using is a very well reputable shop, I'll have to wait until they get to it.
 
You get the exact parts list, I want to do this motor in my 95 TSi.

So you need the block holes plugged but it looks like that spyder block did not have those holes....?
You can use the 95+ head or the 95- 7bolt head..?
It looks like some wiring would need to be done to the cas sensor to plug into the harness, but where does this plug in, I might have just missed it, other than that the 94 dohc cam gears and the timing belt should be all thats needed it sounds like.
Other than this head gasket but it sounds like the one from MAP will work....?

From what it sounds like everything else is pretty simple...am I missing anything?
 
I have a 97 galant block and crank, there is a place for the knock sensor. actualy there are a few holes on the back of the block that we dont use just pick one that fits the sensor and skrew it in.
 
Wow, I've not been here for a bit sorry.

The 5 holes on top of the 4g64 block need to be closed off, there is an image already in this thread showing where. The holes can be fitted with a freeze plug, just check with NAPA for the right plug and tap them in. The block is basically the same as the 4g63, just a tad taller, with a bigger bore. You can use a 4g63 DOHC head, it will bolt right on. After that, it's basically just like assembling your 4g63 and installation is basically the same too.

My project is on hold for right now, money has become an issue, I just got custody of my daughter, work is down, wife is full time student, and we're moving. I did list my broken Holset H2E on ebay though to just hock it off for now and worry about the turbo later.

Last month I took the train to Milwaukee to buy a car for my wife, it's a VW Golf [jazz edition] and we really love this car. It's smooth, very peppy, and has a little more room inside than our ESI did (sold).
 
I mean, i realize it goes together the same. Its a 7 bolt 2.4 so I didnt know other than the holes, different cam gears and timing belt wha else it needed, I know the "vfaq" on it, and thats all good. Just wanted a little more info, maybe from people that have already completed it, after thoughts things t watch for, stuff like that.
 
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