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Spyder 4g63 maintance

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There are a few different ways to go at it. While its out I would inspect and change if needed the hard to reach items like the clutch and throw out bearing. Depending on how many miles are on the vehicle you may want to change the master and slave cylinder while you are at it. Just inspect it and change what needs to be changed. I rebuilt my engine at 150k and pretty much all the lower coolant hoses and turbo feed and return hose were on the verge of cracking.
 
Yeah I'm just gonna use the trans I got on my spyder BC it came off of a gst. It's got a new master and slave. I'm thinking of getting me a better clutch and get the flywheel resurfaced. I just figured since they were cheap I'd change the rod bearings. Oh and timing belt kit.
 
Yeah I'm just gonna use the trans I got on my spyder BC it came off of a gst. It's got a new master and slave. I'm thinking of getting me a better clutch and get the flywheel resurfaced. I just figured since they were cheap I'd change the rod bearings. Oh and timing belt kit.

Check out TMZ performance for good deals on south bend clutch kits with kevlar disk. I got my kit for 500 shipped. Rated of up to 500hp.
 
There are a lot of good articles on doing a balance shaft elimination (BSE), but to put it briefly, the timing belt has a second belt that spins balance shafts. The belt has no tensioner and after time wears and worse case fails causing complete engine destruction. That's it I'm a nut shell, it's good PM and much easier to do when the engine is out
 
How many miles on the engine?

I'd replace all the seals, changing the front cover when you do the BSE takes care of the oil pump and front crank seal, leaving the cams and rear main to replace.
Water pump should be done so it's doesn't leak on a new timing belt if it fails before the next belt is due. That also changes the o-ring on the water pipe. Then you have all the hoses, injector insulators, BISS o-ring, clean the EGR or block it. While the engine is out change the fuel filter.

It would be easy with it out to change the main and rod bearings but before you know it you're most of the way to a minor rebuild.
 
Yeah, I'm just trying to like I said make it somewhat reliable. The engine has 130xxx on it. And the compression on it is decent across the board. I'm not gonna go crazy with a turbo just a evo16g.
 
That's a question best asked of BogusSVO or someone who's torn apart a bunch of engines.
I'm lazy and would do it while the engine is out but as long as the oil doesn't get contaminated with gas or coolant or destroyed from knock I expect they last longer than 180k.
 
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