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4G37 Dyno Results (I WAS SHOCKED!)

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You're too simple minded, lets face the facts this engine isn't that powerful. I don't care what it's in could be on the back of a mouse. 130 whp is basically what dohc non vtec honda b18b b18a Integras put down.. This piddly diddly little Mitsubisi sohc engine just as powerful as an N/T 4g63 and 420a.. for no apparent reason.

Go to the track lets see your times you should have no problem doing high 15's.


Simple minded? Yea sure like that's all there is in the world is a 1/4 mile track. Just because you have a modded car doesn't mean you have to race it down a track or even drive it at all. So I'm thinking your a little simple minded, but the good thing is I understand your point. Having track times matched up with dyno sheets.
 
Simple minded? Yea sure like that's all there is in the world is a 1/4 mile track.

You're on a car forum this topic is about a 92HP crank the engine some how is putting out numbers slightly more powerful cars put out to the wheel with mods. But it seems to me you like talking about nothing at all.

Know the basic fundamentals stay on the topic it's exactly my point take it to the track lets see if there is really 121 whp.

What gear was this car dynoed in ?
 
A dynamometer, even with their differences in measurements from one unit or brand to the next, is going to be far more accurate than some passes down the 1320 in determining whp.

Ohh yes, and I'll add that this thread is now beginning to make my ass twitch.
 
i'm glad your happy with your results, but really think about it when you go with your headers and exhaust on that 1.8 NA motor then changing your mind and going turbo later. Such a waste of money in my opinion. When you waste time or money (usually both) on buying and installing a header for that NA motor, you either sell it or it'll just sit there in the garage when you go turbo. Exhaust is the same way. Usually NA motor runs 2.5" exhaust while turbo run 3". Just some info you should think about.
 
If you know your weight, your trap speed can be calculated to a HP number very accurately. And the best thing is that it will apply across the board. No dynojet comparisons to the 18% lower dyno dynamics.

Basing hp off of ET is a waste really because one driver can drive better/worse than another, traction, etc. But it takes a certain amount of power to go from 0 to 1/4 mile with a certain mass and end at a certain speed. F = ma. E = 1/2mv^2. Calculators for 1/4-Mile ET & MPH vs. HP and Weight. The Patrick Hale formula seams to be the most accurate. And is used through out the web for HP calculators lik this one: Click.
 
To the OP, I'm swapping the 1.8L out of my Talon for a 4g63, if your interested in a spare motor to build on the side PM me. I'll sell CHEAP, REALLY CHEAP....
 
Great numbers, just ignore some of the idiots on here. These are some of the simple minded fools that said a 16G could NEVER EVER get into the 11's. It's in their nature. But sitting down and creating an upgrade path is a good idea. That way you're not buying the same part 2 or 3 times.

Charlie
 
Wow, you'd think someone slapped someone else's grandma.

It is agreed though.... while dyno's are great for measuring "before" and "after".... measuring only the "after" kind of skews the perspective. To reference an old issue of SCC.... some inches are bigger than others (some dynos read higher than others). You really need a baseline run to reference to what the motor should have made stock. People told me that my dyno was reading high when my Mazdaspeed3 put down about 15WHP more than similar cars with similar mods. Then I pulled all my mods off and did a baseline run, reinstalled the parts, and proved them wrong. Luckily that was only 3 parts. If you can't do a baseline run, get a dyno chart from someone else's unmodded car (even if it's a totally different car) to compare to other unmodded car's like theirs on other dyno's. That will give you an idea if the dyno you are using is reading higher than usual. Most people don't know this... but it's very easy for dyno operators to make a dyno read lower or higher than it should. All you have to do is mess with the inertia value for the roller. When I first got my dyno, I ran my eclipse and it put down a whopping 158WHP at 15psi of boost.... because the dyno software was set up for a different model dyno with a much smaller and lower mass roller. I had to have the software reconfigured with the right roller diameter and inertia specs to make the reading accurate. Now my car puts down 250WHP (which is exactly where I estimated it would be).

I don't see why a modded 4G37 can't be fun, and I applaud you for modding yours and posting your results. If you enjoy the car and enjoy the results... then why should anyone tell you that you're wasting your time or money. However, if you intend to get big power out of the car... buying NA upgrades isn't the smart way to do it, unless you consider 170hp big power. If you intend to go turbo... do it.
 
Good job, nice numbers!
I have a 93 DL and was modding it but a 4g63T fell in my lap and decided to rebuild and swap!

I feel you and yes its still a blast to drive with the sohc n/t motor!!
 
I don't see why a modded 4G37 can't be fun, and I applaud you for modding yours and posting your results. If you enjoy the car and enjoy the results... then why should anyone tell you that you're wasting your time or money. However, if you intend to get big power out of the car... buying NA upgrades isn't the smart way to do it, unless you consider 170hp big power. If you intend to go turbo... do it.

It's not that it isn't fun, its just significantly less fun then 20 psi on a 4g63. Take it from me, I started with a 1994 talon DL.
 
I wanna know what ever happened to the little engine that could? And forget the haters. Midshipcivic has jumped in and bashed numerous different threads no sweat. I think if everyone read the first post you said you werent planning on running it and I think those are good numbers. Idk what idiot thinks a dyno measure HP at the crank? After all the purpose of a dyno is to gather whp as opposed to removing the motor and having it dyno'd like mentioned above.
 
Dont let anyone piss on your snow cone, dude. Great job.
 
Let's not start a flame fest. Lets show a little class. And be a better breed than what is depicted with this situation guys. Let the mods handle this if they are.
 
wow...just wow
 
you would think a guy has something more to do then waste time and make up fake dyno numbers. you see how he doesn't even reply anymore. moderator should come in and do something about him. this site is to provide helpful information for others to learn from.
 
I wanna know what ever happened to the little engine that could? And forget the haters. Midshipcivic has jumped in and bashed numerous different threads no sweat. I think if everyone read the first post you said you werent planning on running it and I think those are good numbers. Idk what idiot thinks a dyno measure HP at the crank? After all the purpose of a dyno is to gather whp as opposed to removing the motor and having it dyno'd like mentioned above.

Sounds like you're the hater see there was something called THE TRUTH I didn't see it in that dyno sheet .



DSMonster... I relate HP/TQ to 1/4 mile ALL the time.

I'll know if you're a bad driver or driving to the vehicle potential this isn't unheard of ther wise shows like past time wouldn't exist huh ?
 
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