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1G 4G37 dies after it gets warmed up

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jgrin

Probationary Member
8
0
Jan 2, 2012
belleville, Wisconsin
I've got a 93 Laser with 1.8l. No mods. Drive 15 to 20 miles and cars stalls and dies. Will start up and idle but when giving it gas, it dies. Does this for a minute then will not start at all. I can leave car sit for awhile then get in start it up and drive away and get home. WTF?

I thought it was the fuel pump, changed that and still does it. I have done all the tune up stuff, wires, plugs, cap.

I can't trust it to go anywhere. any help?
 
Id check fuel pressure. Replace fuel filter. Check and clean MAF. see if you can get a palm and check Coolant temp sensore and O2 sensor. Just to see if there functioning properly.
 
going to try that. had changed the fuel filter before and didnt think that was it. how does one clean the maf?
 
unplug your coolent temp sensor and see if it still dose it.could be alot of things.
if it runs with temp sensor unpluged(im am refering to the sensor for the computer, not the guage. if you lose temp gauge you unpluged the wrong one)
if it starts and runs with temp sensor unpluged then that will rule some things out and you can check back with us.
 
replaced fuel filter. took it for a drive and went 22 miles before it died again. towed it home and it started right back up about an hour after it died. have already changed coolant temp sensor. could it be the ecu? took it out and opened it up and it does not look bad at all. anyway i can check it or know where it can be taken to be checked?
 
not sure what you mean by mil light. there are no cel lights on. will try to post some pics.
 
cranks just fine. seems like it's not getting gas. first 7-8 miles, it runs good. purrs along about 60mph. next 7-8 miles it starts to miss a little. spits. last couple miles, it spits and sputters on take-off and acceleration. then just dies. nothing. wanted to start, chugged, then nothing for about an hour.

just got done reading about using a maf from a 4g63 onto a 4g37. am doing that right now. car ran like shit and then put the 4g63 maf on and it ran 100% better. now i get what happens now. could it be the 4g37 maf is what i need? ecu looks ok.
 
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yo yo yo i might have your fix man. Had the same exact problem with my lt1 previous car now got a 1g :D but mine would run like a motha until temp got to 190 degrees checked all the things that everybody has already checked. when it dies and you go back to restart it,, do you have spark?? My coil was getting hot being bolted very close to the block like most dsms under the intake try to remove it and see if it continues. I really hopes this help. I was in your shoes it sucks D#$k when its your DD. Let me know if that works good luck :)
 
I have the exact issue with my 2g 420a. RS. Its my DD. I feel less of a man asking people to let me borrow there cars for work. its been sitting in my parking space for the last few days because i am on these threads trying to figure out something about my issue. i really dont want to take it to any mechanic for the fact that i dont trust anyone out here. I replaced timing belt, water pump, ignition coil, spark plug wires, and i tried putting my friends MAP senor still nothing, it doesnt even run anymore it cranks but no start and when it does start (2 out of 10) times it shuts straight off. Im stuck in a huge hole thinking of selling for junk price and combinding my taxes to get a gsx or gst. But i dont want to give up on this car so easily. Please help so i can sell for a little bigger price. And get me to work

Sorry for bringing my problems into this but i dont want to post in wrong thread or get into any trouble with the mediators.
 
^sounds like the coolant temp sensor for the ecu not the gauge. Try that
 
something similar happened to me, it would run for 10ish mins then die and wouldnt start unless i gave it time to cool down, and after it was cooled down it was start back no up prob, the car reacted diff when i unplugged maf so i replaced o2 and maf and no change, i swapped out ECU's and never had the prob again.
 
I'm not too familiar with that engine but If it has a crank sensor I would almost bet money that is your problem. If you don't have a crank sensor then its your cam sensor. Let me describe your problem. Your car starts up when cold no problem runs great for awhile but then all of a sudden dies. It will start back but when you give it gas it'll get real rough and back fire and pop and cut off. Sometimes it'll start up and just die. But if you let sit long enough you can start it back up and it will run great again for awhile till it acts up again. Is this correct? LOL
 
Sounds the same as mine......exactly the same.
I kinda didnt want it to have to come to that just for the fact that i have to pay someone to do it and to be honest i really dont trust the mechanics. But in case it does how much for one that will fixmy problem ?

I'm not too familiar with that engine but If it has a crank sensor I would almost bet money that is your problem. If you don't have a crank sensor then its your cam sensor. Let me describe your problem. Your car starts up when cold no problem runs great for awhile but then all of a sudden dies. It will start back but when you give it gas it'll get real rough and back fire and pop and cut off. Sometimes it'll start up and just die. But if you let sit long enough you can start it back up and it will run great again for awhile till it acts up again. Is this correct? LOL

I didnt know you saw how my car acted when this problem occured. Lol

You are correct as can be.
 
Sounds the same as mine......exactly the same.
I kinda didnt want it to have to come to that just for the fact that i have to pay someone to do it and to be honest i really dont trust the mechanics. But in case it does how much for one that will fixmy problem ?

I didnt know you saw how my car acted when this problem occured. Lol

You are correct as can be.

I had this problem with my car. I had the someone else put my engine together and install it in my car as I just was always busy at the time and never had time to get to it. So I took it the shop where my dad manages ### the guy said he would do it for me which really was a mistake but its past history now. anyways long story short after everything was done and it was ready to start up and begin break in break in. It started this and was there for like two months with me going back and forth bring them parts from my other eclipse. Finally got tired of it and had it brought to my work boss said it was kool. I had that saturday off so I came in and worked on my car from 9am and came home at 6am the next morning. By 2:30am the car was fixed and running great. It was my crank sensor. It was a brand new one that was defective. Installed the one off the engine I yanked out and it fixed my problem. Glad it was the crank though as if it were the cam sensor I woulda had to remove my timing belt. LOL Their two months with many years of experience over me and my less than 24 hours and I fixed it. LOL

I'm sure the price varies from states and regions for the crank sensor. If you was near me I'd change it for about 50$ plus part or 25$ plus part with the 420a LOL but some ppl are a little bit more money hungry than me. Book hours to change it on a 4g63 calls for 2.1 hours but honestly if you know what your doing it takes well less than one hour. LOL Which I like money but I'm not one to rip ppl off to try to solve my own financial situations LOL. Do you have a 4g63 or 420a?
P.S. The coolant sensor on the bottom of the plastic tank has no effect on car performance. Only turns a gauge light to let you know when coolant level is low.
 
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I had this problem with my car. I had the someone else put my engine together and install it in my car as I just was always busy at the time and never had time to get to it. So I took it the shop where my dad manages ### the guy said he would do it for me which really was a mistake but its past history now. anyways long story short after everything was done and it was ready to start up and begin break in break in. It started this and was there for like two months with me going back and forth bring them parts from my other eclipse. Finally got tired of it and had it brought to my work boss said it was kool. I had that saturday off so I came in and worked on my car from 9am and came home at 6am the next morning. By 2:30am the car was fixed and running great. It was my crank sensor. It was a brand new one that was defective. Installed the one off the engine I yanked out and it fixed my problem. Glad it was the crank though as if it were the cam sensor I woulda had to remove my timing belt. LOL Their two months with many years of experience over me and my less than 24 hours and I fixed it. LOL

I'm sure the price varies from states and regions for the crank sensor. If you was near me I'd change it for about 50$ plus part or 25$ plus part with the 420a LOL but some ppl are a little bit more money hungry than me. Book hours to change it on a 4g63 calls for 2.1 hours but honestly if you know what your doing it takes well less than one hour. LOL Which I like money but I'm not one to rip ppl off to try to solve my own financial situations LOL. Do you have a 4g63 or 420a?
P.S. The coolant sensor on the bottom of the plastic tank has no effect on car performance. Only turns a gauge light to let you know when coolant level is low.

I know ppl are just money hungry some pll do t even have the knowledge or to do such a procedure but as soon as soon as money gets involved they'll knoe anything you want them to know. But thanks for "the talk" with me. I have a 420a.

Lol thanks for the help on the other thread. So boht these "cam sensor" or "crank sensor" where can i find them at in my car.
 
cam sensor its located on the back of the head on the cam closest to you when standing in front of the car. when buying a cam sensor for the 420a's only buy OEM new as the part store brand is notorious for problems.
Pictures from Sprint: View Message
Crank sensor is located on the right side of the engine underneath the alternator right above the oil filter. It is I believe is called a crank angle sensor or hall effect sensor. Pictures from Sprint: View Message
 
Yes if you can afford to do so it is ALWAYS a good thing to change both cam and crank at the same time. Especially on the 420a engines. We always recommend this where I work due to the many problems we have with only changing one and also not using OEM dealer parts due to ppl not wanting to pay the money for them. And if you have unknown maintenance then as DSMKauai do the timing belt as well as the water pump.
 
I cleaned up my old original MAF and put it back on the car. It ran like shit and you could really smell that it was running real rich. I started taking things apart and throttle body and into the intake is filthy and full of carbon. Cleaning them up and waiting for gaskets to come in. A good way to clean the intake would be greatly appreciated.

How do I get that carbon buildup out of there?

Thanks, going to try to post pics next time.
 
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