2G 450 whp project

[jmonterful]

I am posting this as a new thread because these are personal questions hope someone could give me more knowledge on this. I got a 95 tsi with a 6 bolt engine, it has a 20g turbo and an intercooler i'm planning on going e-85,ecmlinkv3, bigger injectors, fuel pump, tune it etc. I'm just wondering if i'm going the right path and if my stock tranny and engine will hold 450 and still be reliable i was thinking on getting arp studs, wiseco pistons, eagle rods, rod bearings. Will this be enough? Do i even need them for that amount of power? or what would you recomend or suggest? Also i wanna get an exhaust manifold what should i get i can only find $700+ but i think those might be for cars with insane amounts of power i want one that will hold good with the amount i want i dont wanna go ebay either cause that would be downgrading wouldnt be? Thanks for your time and your responses beforehand.

 

[oneslowwdsm]

This type of question is probably asked weekly. Take a look at the mods in my profile. Without the built motor you should be in the 400whp range. Weather or not a stock motor will be able to handle the power will depend on how you drive the car.

 

[OGDSM1989]

There are occasions were our stock motor holds 425-450hp .... but the question is for how long can the internals hold that amount of power. Our stock cranks are pretty durable but for a reliable 450 hp motor I would suggest 2 things ( Parts and tuning are what makes a reliable motor )

1) The parts ....... 1g Eagle rods w/ 2g weisco pistons ( 2g piston increase compression just a little bit maybe even go for a 9:1 piston ) ARP head studs are a must and ACL bearings .... that block if machined and assembled properly will handle 450hp very well ...

2) Tuning ....... Whatever you decide to tune w/ ECM Link, AEM, Moates Ostrich setup, etc etc ..... the tune maybe more important then the parts. Have a trusted tuner work the tune for your car .....E-85 has become the standard with our cars for various reason but to me the most important is that fact it can help reduce knock count and ( I am not totally sure on this point ) I think it helps keep internal temps down. Them alone make the motor more reliable and useable.

The transmission / drive train from what I have seen as long as your not dropping bombs at 5k they seem to be pretty good to 500hp( from experience it always the transfer case that seems to go at that power) although there are some simple upgrades that really help out 300m transfer case shaft w/ magnus transfer case cover , maybe a refresh of the trans , new sychronisers/ shift forks and factory OEM fluids.

I am sure others will chime in about other things ..this is just what I personally had in my 2g Eclipse that dynoed at 517hp and 480tq at AMS. I Daily drove that car for a long time ... never missed a step or chance to make a V-8 cry about how my car is lighter ( fact they are heavy pigs )or they missed a shift ( fact learn to drive then) etc etc (fact DSM cars are fast and not the typical rice eating Honda they just beat)

 

[jmonterful]

This type of question is probably asked weekly. Take a look at the mods in my profile. Without the built motor you should be in the 400whp range. Weather or not a stock motor will be able to handle the power will depend on how you drive the car.

Thats wat i said in the beggining i made a new thread because i couldnt find exactly what i was looking for and i had alot of questions regarding MY build. But thanks alot

 

[jmonterful]

There are occasions were our stock motor holds 425-450hp .... but the question is for how long can the internals hold that amount of power. Our stock cranks are pretty durable but for a reliable 450 hp motor I would suggest 2 things ( Parts and tuning are what makes a reliable motor )

1) The parts ....... 1g Eagle rods w/ 2g weisco pistons ( 2g piston increase compression just a little bit maybe even go for a 9:1 piston ) ARP head studs are a must and ACL bearings .... that block if machined and assembled properly will handle 450hp very well ...

2) Tuning ....... Whatever you decide to tune w/ ECM Link, AEM, Moates Ostrich setup, etc etc ..... the tune maybe more important then the parts. Have a trusted tuner work the tune for your car .....E-85 has become the standard with our cars for various reason but to me the most important is that fact it can help reduce knock count and ( I am not totally sure on this point ) I think it helps keep internal temps down. Them alone make the motor more reliable and useable.

The transmission / drive train from what I have seen as long as your not dropping bombs at 5k they seem to be pretty good to 500hp( from experience it always the transfer case that seems to go at that power) although there are some simple upgrades that really help out 300m transfer case shaft w/ magnus transfer case cover , maybe a refresh of the trans , new sychronisers/ shift forks and factory OEM fluids.

I am sure others will chime in about other things ..this is just what I personally had in my 2g Eclipse that dynoed at 517hp and 480tq at AMS. I Daily drove that car for a long time ... never missed a step or chance to make a V-8 cry about how my car is lighter ( fact they are heavy pigs )or they missed a shift ( fact learn to drive then) etc etc (fact DSM cars are fast and not the typical rice eating Honda they just beat)

Thanks alot for your positive response! So the crank you would say its okay? & i wanted to start ordering parts to get ahead of time i just didnt wanna order wrong stuff or parts i didnt need but i would say i was pretty close regarding the engine internals. I have someone that is gonna help me do all the work (or i'll help him should i say) and i'll take it to a tuning shop i've heard one in denver is very good but that would be one of the last things. What do u think about the manifold would u recomend one? Also what about the clutch? Thanks again very helpful!

 

[OGDSM1989]

The 4g63 crank has been used in 800hp builds, its good to have someone help out but make sure that any machining is done by a reliable shop( if you use 2g piston the rods need to be machined to fit the wrist pin to the 1g rods ) and having a reliable tuner is most important especially concerning E-85 and the proper injector size 1600cc 1800cc etc .... fuel pumps ( yes usually 2 pumps )

As for your intake this is another part that unless your going to spin 9k rpm at 600-700hp our 1g intake manifold is awesome maybe get a larger Throttle body (S-90 70mm throttle body ) and our factory fuel rail have been tested and seen 500+hp ( I personally am going to have my 1g Intake manifold extrude honed to improve it flow characteristics ( cost is about 500 dollars but keeps the sleeper look so worth it in my book )

The transmission clutch is certainly going to need attention .... I have heard about Southbend clutches but personally I like the Act 2600 with a street/strip disk but there are plenty of options out there ... I like a little weak spot in the clutch as to protect some of the other parts , would rather the clutch slip and burn befor ruining a diff or transfer case ( that just me and my opinion )

Good luck on the build if you have a build thread I will follow along to see progress ...

 

[jmonterful]

The 4g63 crank has been used in 800hp builds, its good to have someone help out but make sure that any machining is done by a reliable shop( if you use 2g piston the rods need to be machined to fit the wrist pin to the 1g rods ) and having a reliable tuner is most important especially concerning E-85 and the proper injector size 1600cc 1800cc etc .... fuel pumps ( yes usually 2 pumps )

As for your intake this is another part that unless your going to spin 9k rpm at 600-700hp our 1g intake manifold is awesome maybe get a larger Throttle body (S-90 70mm throttle body ) and our factory fuel rail have been tested and seen 500+hp ( I personally am going to have my 1g Intake manifold extrude honed to improve it flow characteristics ( cost is about 500 dollars but keeps the sleeper look so worth it in my book )

The transmission clutch is certainly going to need attention .... I have heard about Southbend clutches but personally I like the Act 2600 with a street/strip disk but there are plenty of options out there ... I like a little weak spot in the clutch as to protect some of the other parts , would rather the clutch slip and burn befor ruining a diff or transfer case ( that just me and my opinion )

Good luck on the build if you have a build thread I will follow along to see progress ...

Thank you appreciate it!!!

 

[EvilGST]

Also be sure to use an engine oil with a high film strength, this is commonly overlooked when trying to make power reliably. Forget Mobil 1, something with a high zinc content such as Brad Penn or Valvoline VR1 ( my preference ).

 

[OGDSM1989]

Yeah good fluids can give you extra piece of mind ..I personally use Schaeffer 9000 supreme 5w50 racing oil and there full synthetic Moly Gear lube that has a anti shock lubricating property ....This stuff is awesome , while expensive it worth the piece of mind that comes with it ...... they offer a oil analysis program that is top notch.

 

[chrysler kid]

Thats wat i said in the beggining i made a new thread because i couldnt find exactly what i was looking for and i had alot of questions regarding MY build. But thanks alot

Not really, you have random generic questions that could quickly be answered using a search. Try using terms like "450whp build" or "20g turbo bottom end" or even "stock bottom end" or "arp head studs"

What can be frustrating is that you expect answers from us, and then you will get ECM link and ask us how to tune your car. Obviously we don't have tons of members, and we can't say specifically what you should do, and we don't have some one with the exact same setup, so we learn by the search ourselves

 

[jmonterful]

Not really, you have random generic questions that could quickly be answered using a search. Try using terms like "450whp build" or "20g turbo bottom end" or even "stock bottom end" or "arp head studs"

What can be frustrating is that you expect answers from us, and then you will get ECM link and ask us how to tune your car. Obviously we don't have tons of members, and we can't say specifically what you should do, and we don't have some one with the exact same setup, so we learn by the search ourselves

Thats why i'm doing research before messing up. Why would i f*** it up and then ask questions? I think this is the purpose of this forum isnt it? I get there is people with lots more knowladge in here and might get frustrated with this kind of questions but there are some that want to learn or are beggining to, like you all did once. Also i dont have any people with knowladge of that around here in fact i've only seen 1 dsm in my town and its a pretty beat up rusty one so my only resourse is this and if i have doubts i'll ask again you are not obligated to answer. Plus i did lots of research before posting this most of the time you find them and you dont even need to post anything but some other times you dont find what u looking for my friend. But thanks for your opinion