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3 mistakes = blown motor... need help guys!

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TSisleeper

15+ Year Contributor
70
0
Jan 18, 2005
Ltitz, Pennsylvania
Ok so I let me girl take my car to get the oil changed since I didn't have time to do it this weekend while I was away on business (1st mistake). So I get home and my car isn't in the driveway, so I'm like ok it's in the garage. NOPE, so I'm like hmmm, "dude where's my car ?" ha ha. Anyway to make a long story short, the A-holes didn't tighten the oil pan plug and all the oil drained out of my motor (2nd mistake). Well the turbo is still good, and the bottum end is still good, but the exhaust cam welded itself to the cylinder head (3rd mistake). So tomorrow I'm going to pickup a used head (my buddies spare) and put it on my car with a new t-belt, h2o pump, arp studs and cometic gasket, etc. etc. I purchased an safc II black and an eprom ecu and also a chip with the following mods:

Includes:
7500 rev limit
octane reset 93 octane
Eliminate fuel ccut
Stutter box at 5000
Eliminate phantom knock
No lift to shift at 6200
Idle at 900 RPM
Stock 450cc injector
1g mas
And a 11.1:1AFR

I drive this car 340 miles a week, it's a full on street car (stereo, a/c leather, etc.)
I don't need help building a 700whp race car, I just want about 250 - 275 whp
Ok so here goes... my car is all stock (ha ha just kidding)

14b turbo
Open K&N on 1g MAS
stock rubber intake tube
2 1/2" cat back
gutted cat
boost gauge
oil press gauge
fuel press gauge
prothane motor mounts
s/s clutch line & 1/4" longer rod
(act 2100 with 6 puck sprung disc on order also)

I also have these too, that will go on with the head:
28 x 10.5 x 3 (Slowboy Racing) FMIC
2 1/2" piping
50mm tial BOV (I know atmophere vent, hold your horses)

I am considering ordering the following parts also:
FIC 650cc injectors ( I know the chip is burnt for 450's I would get it changed)
Walbro 190 pump with install kit
3" downpipe, test pipe, side exit pipe (for weekend fun)
blow through MAF T (setup for the bov vent, and better tuning)
hard intake pipe

So here's what I want to know:

1) Should I just sell the eprom chip and get a dsmlink (worth it for 275hp?)
2) Can I even make 275hp on a 14b (getting rebuilt by forced performance ~ no oil thing)
3) Is a 190 walbro pump good to 275hp (21 psi on a 14b)
4) I know 550's will do 275 but I think I'm safer with 650's... opinions?
5) Should I say forget it and go all out !! ha ha

FYI: 1990 Plymouth Laser RS fwd 5 speed
78K on the clock
I'm looking to make 275whp (not 700!)

Thanking you in advance


Jayson
 
I highly doubt the bottom end is still good if the cylinder head is destroyed. I would drop the pan, pull a main cap and a rod cap, and inspect the bearings. My bet is they are trashed.

This same thing happened to my friend, he ended up with a brand new engine and free lifetime oil changes.
 
I hope your not paying for the head. You should be just getting a new motor, and making them pay for it.

Yes DSMlink is worth every penny, even if it is only for 275 hp. But then again, you could do with an afc, and a aem widband.
 
get free life time oil changes and a new engine every six months:thumb:

On a 1G I dont think DSM link is not as critical to have as it is on a 2G, and DSM chips has great new chips
with extended pump gas timming maps that will alow up to 24 psi. (good for 380 whp)
a wide band comes highly recomeded though.
 
Thanks for the input so far guys, My father builds marine drag boat engines and I had him check out the bottum end already, I have spoken with the place that did the oil change and they want to confirm the damage and then "we'll see what we can do" ? WTF? ha ha none the less I think I may just get ride of the car and look into an AWD any words of advice on that topic ? Thanks... Jason
 
No, don't let them get off with "we'll see what we can do." You let them know (without being an ass) that they're paying for a reputable shop (preferably of your choice) to put in a fresh engine or you're taking them to court. This shit happens pretty often with these quickie-lube places- if you go in and let them know you're not going to let them screw you over, they'll pay out for repairs.
 
Caithness said:
No, don't let them get off with "we'll see what we can do." You let them know (without being an ass) that they're paying for a reputable shop (preferably of your choice) to put in a fresh engine or you're taking them to court. This shit happens pretty often with these quickie-lube places- if you go in and let them know you're not going to let them screw you over, they'll pay out for repairs.

Yep, that's what you need to do. Don't give them any options. They screwed you and they need to be held accountable.
 
don't let them get away with it cause it will happen to some one else, three people I work with took there cars to wally world to get a oil change and there motors went coming back to work cause the oil plug wasn't screwed in tight enough and there was no oil, they ended up all with new motors, and the guy still works there. (thats why I change my own oil) now for 275 yeah you can go with a 190fuel pump but I'd say for price of parts a 190 and a 255 are almost the same price, always better to go bigger then what you need cause later you may want that 700hp, also I'd go with 650s instead of 550s, and for only 275 you can sure enough get away with just running a safc2 instead of dsmlink why spend so much for the link when many have made 275 with safc2. but 190 and 550s should get you there.
 
What? thats a series of events from 1 mistake. Anyhow, sorry to hear of your bad luck. We have all had our share of mistakes. You should have seen the body kit on my previous car...ROFL
 
Well to be honest guys. It's not really as much as their fault as you think and its not really your girlfriends fault. They should give you an option to get a new drain plug. Most people dont think they need it. Those things take quite a beating. I used to do oil changes and i'd see some rough ones trust me. They are on the most vulnerable side of your engine and they do get torqued on pretty hard more often then say...head studs. One of the dumbasses before could have crossed the threads and tightened it enough to where it wouldn't leak in turn ####in the next guy to change the oil.
Anyways, i do think they need to pay for the damages still because they probably didn't stress enough that you MAY have needed a new drain plug. Now if it wasn't the drain plug and the dude was just a dumbass disregard this and continue on with getting a new engine.
Either way you shouldn't be paying for it. You trusted it in their hands...
Thank God I do my own oil changes.
 
well great news, they are sending me a check for $650 because I screwed my self by already starting on the bottum end (man I'm a dumb ass!) anyway what do you think I should spend the money on. I know the car right! ha ha, I mean I'm getting the bottum end redone (by my father, he builds marine drag boat engines, not that that matters just saying all the machine work is free just have to pay for parts) so I was thinking, I'm doing a complete rebuild, should I go with stock internals or what ?
 
here's my mods so far:

90 Laser RS fwd turbo 5 speed
virgin when I bought it

fmic with tial bov
walbro 255 hp pump
FP rewire kit
sbr afpr and install kit
fic 650cc's
act 2100 with sprung 6 puck disc
ss clutch line
1/4" longer slave rod
prothane motor mounts
3" downpipe, test pipe, and side exit (all 3")
open K&N on hacked 1g mas
** removed lower mesh
** took filter stuff out after mas
** that's all

eprom chip (see specs above)
safc or safc II (if I can find one)

still need a head

also considering DKS2 cams with SI springs and retainers
extrude hone intake mani (cause I'm sneaky and my cars all stock! :shhh:

anything else: maf t maybe? also want info on different logger
set up's and anything else you guys think is cool

this is turning into an obcession!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:sneaky:

what do you think of the boost gauge?

well the gauge picture is too large so....

http://store.summitracing.com/partd...822101+4294891594+4294908420+115&autoview=sku

???

add a palm m100 and pocketlogger to the list above
 
Do not cash the check. I would definitely decline the offer. It's not your fault that they didn't tighten the oil plug and the engine ran dry. You trusted them to do a good job and they didn't. The $650 is their go screw yourself offer. You can't even get a head fixed (at the dealer) for $650.

I would go get an estimate from the dealer (because the the dealer is expensive) and bring it to them. If they refuse to write you a check for the estimated amount, get a lawyer.

Of course, you won't actually be having the dealer work on the car.
 
ya dont cash that check they have to buy you a new engine. i worked at a valvoline lube center this stuff happens all the time you will always get a new engine if it was a big company like valvoline then valvoline pays you so dont take that little 650 check!!
 
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