2G 3.0 ohms after continuity test: CPS/CAS

[nicholasramos]

After doing a continuity test on the CAS and CPS harness I've got 3 ohms through both of the ground pins.

First of all, Is this detrimental?

Second of all, How would I start remedying the problem?

Thanks

 

[wrencher]

A meter can read ohms slightly differently then another.
Did you zero the ohm meter or even have that option?

I prefer to check mili-volts on grounds why circuit is in operation as opposed to the resistance while it's static.

 

[nicholasramos]

The ohm meter was zero'd out.

Its a good meter, I trust the reading.

The sensors were replaced within the year, and now there seems to be a problem with them. They do not appear to have failed so this seems like this poor grounding could be a valid problem.

No idea how to solve it though.

Also the blue/red wire of the Cam angle sensor was getting 3.26V at idle while the factory spec is between 0.5-2.0V

 

[wrencher]

OK
Now once again meters offer a different sample rate & average reading on variable voltage/digital signals or pulse width modulated circuits.
An example of which would be a fluke volt meters. The 87 & the 88 have different rates & this cannot be changed on the meter, it's built in.
In other words non linear signals readings can come out different per meter.
Cannot recall what the specs are on the mitsu approved meter but that what that spec is based on.
This is why now a days a digital storage oscilloscope is the way to go on these circuits, no guesswork.

Is there a specific running problem or just voltages out of spec?

 

[nicholasramos]

Thanks for your response wrencher.

I'm struggling with a degenerating p0300 Random Misfire situation. I've ruled out most of my ignition components after replacing them and now I am turning to the Cam Angle Sensor and Crank Position Sensor.

They were replaced within the year, so I'm looking into possibly another sourse of the problem rather than a bad sensor. I figured the grounding issue might be indicative of something.

I checked the grounds on the engine block, the battery, and the firewall (both behind the battery, and behind the intake). They're all well attached and clean.

I'm just kind of stuck. I'd like to make an educated guess before I keep throwing money at problems.

 

[wrencher]

So I'm guessing it's still a 7 bolt then? Not a 6 bolt swap.
Is it a perceivable misfire or just getting a check engine light?

Seen tons of threads here alone on this for 2g's...