The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

2nd Rear Main Seal LEAKING!

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

yoyo13131

10+ Year Contributor
75
0
Feb 5, 2010
Santa Clara, California
1992 Eclipse, 2.0 FWD non-turbo 6-bolt crank.

Does anyone know why my rear main seal keeps leaking?
Fully rebuilt motor..
1st Seal: Replaced the main seal, u-shape gasket and placed the oil separator in with the hole to the bottom from the get go. leaked like a sive the first time, went to replace it and discovered the seal destroyed itself after 71 miles.
(Transmission seals are brand new, aren't leaking, same with slave cylinder. Replaced PCV too)

2nd seal: This time checked the flywheel for any scratches, nothing it's really smooth all around. I used a Felpro seal and U-gasket, again used B-RTV and separator hole at the bottom. It's not leaking as bad but leaking still...

Did some research on here and found this from a wise-man

"You don't need the specialty tool shown in the FSM to install the new seal. Make sure it's flat and gently tap it in with hammer. It needs to be just a hair *above* flush. If you pound it in flush, it will leak on you. "

After reading this I think I might of realized my problem, BOTH times I've replaced my real main seal I've purposely made sure the seal is COMPLETELY flush!

Ultimate Question, will making it flush really make the seal leak?!
 
1992 Eclipse, 2.0 FWD non-turbo 6-bolt crank.

Does anyone know why my rear main seal keeps leaking?
Fully rebuilt motor..
1st Seal: Replaced the main seal, u-shape gasket and placed the oil separator in with the hole to the bottom from the get go. leaked like a sive the first time, went to replace it and discovered the seal destroyed itself after 71 miles.
(Transmission seals are brand new, aren't leaking, same with slave cylinder. Replaced PCV too)

2nd seal: This time checked the flywheel for any scratches, nothing it's really smooth all around. I used a Felpro seal and U-gasket, again used B-RTV and separator hole at the bottom. It's not leaking as bad but leaking still...

Did some research on here and found this from a wise-man

"You don't need the specialty tool shown in the FSM to install the new seal. Make sure it's flat and gently tap it in with hammer. It needs to be just a hair *above* flush. If you pound it in flush, it will leak on you. "

After reading this I think I might of realized my problem, BOTH times I've replaced my real main seal I've purposely made sure the seal is COMPLETELY flush!

Ultimate Question, will making it flush really make the seal leak?!


You answered you own question.. Listen to the wise man. They don't call him WISE for nothing.. :D
 
I just put spit around mine, gasket, shove it over the crank, and gently press on and bolt it. Done, dont touch the seal after you slide it on. Just touque the bolts.

Are you sure didnt forget a big oil galley in the block? on tranny side?
 
I see no basis for the 'flush' theory. I've always put mine in flush and never had a problem. When you take it apart next time find out where specifically it's leaking, the seal itself or around the seal housing.

Take a good look at your crank sealing surface, the 6 bolt I have apart right now has a pretty worn crank surface. Apparently it's such a big problem with DSMs they make a repair sleeve...

Chrysler & Mitsubishi Rear Crank Seal Repair Sleeve
 
If you for any reason forgot this hole, this could be an issue.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
where the seal rides on the crank can groove over the miles, the just above flush could be to put the seal lip in a new spot.

also the crank repair sleeve can be used to cove the lip seal groove.
 
If you for any reason forgot this hole, this could be an issue.

Thanks for all the reply's, but I've already JB welded AND red RTV'd my oil galley hole (plus Teflon tape) and it's not leaking at all... my engines completely rebuilt, first seal was leaking pretty bad at 71 miles, and now my second seal is now at 250 miles and its leaking again....

Also, this "repair" sleeve will fix the problem if my crank has some scratches but will create another problem leaking between the crank and repair sleeve wont it? Wouldn't only a PRESS fit repair sleeve not leak?

Anyone used this repair sleeve with success?
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Latest Classifieds

  • For sale 2g 2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud
    2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud $200 + shipping and paypal feesYou must be registered to...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 2g 2G Power Window Switches ( tested and hardware included )
    2G Power Window Switches $55 + shipping and paypal fees* Tested 6/2/26 * Hardware included *...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale VIRGIN 4G63 6-BOLT TURBO HEAD
    Came off a virgin stock AWD Auto 1G DMS (91), also have matching block and crank which are also...
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 1G DSM 4G63 6-BOLT TIMING COVER
    Used, see condition in photos. Buyer covers shipping / fees.
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Garage clean out
    Changing setups on the car and getting rid of some stuff as well that's been laying around. Will...
    • 92GSXtacy
    • Updated:
    • Expires
Back
Top