2GB auto trans limit

[luigi90210]

so i have a really noobie question, I have a 2GB eclipse spyder with about 80k on it and my turbo just went out, i was wondering how much torque can a completely stock auto can handle and what upgrades can i do to make sure it lasts?

my car was basically stock for its entire life, only had a pod filter, a GFB evo9 bypass valve(since it fits the 2g) and it has the BCS pill removed giving me about 14.7-16psi(1-1.2bar according to my gauge)

I was thinking about just throwing a t28 on it with supporting mods and calling it a day since its basically a drop in replacement but since i am swapping the turbo i was considering maybe doing a 20g, would that be to much torque for my stock auto or would it be able to handle the torque just fine?

the parts i plan on putting on the car will definitely support a 20g easily(320lph fuel pump, ID1050x, FMIC, GFB bypass valve for a 1g and a full 3in turbo back exhaust) but i also want ot prevent blowing up my transmission until i get some money to either swap it to a manual or build the auto to hold more power

any advice on where to go from here would be helpful

 

[chrysler kid]

so i have a really noobie question, I have a 2GB eclipse spyder with about 80k on it and my turbo just went out, i was wondering how much torque can a completely stock auto can handle and what upgrades can i do to make sure it lasts?

my car was basically stock for its entire life, only had a pod filter, a GFB evo9 bypass valve(since it fits the 2g) and it has the BCS pill removed giving me about 14.7-16psi(1-1.2bar according to my gauge)

I was thinking about just throwing a t28 on it with supporting mods and calling it a day since its basically a drop in replacement but since i am swapping the turbo i was considering maybe doing a 20g, would that be to much torque for my stock auto or would it be able to handle the torque just fine?

the parts i plan on putting on the car will definitely support a 20g easily(320lph fuel pump, ID1050x, FMIC, GFB bypass valve for a 1g and a full 3in turbo back exhaust) but i also want ot prevent blowing up my transmission until i get some money to either swap it to a manual or build the auto to hold more power

any advice on where to go from here would be helpful

I mean mine has 174k on it. The consensus is that you won't kill a fwd auto with power, you will kill it with heat

In it's simplest terms usual wear items include end clutches, and servos and tcu modules.

In my searching it's not often you need to tear them down for a full rebuild, and more likely a single piece malfunctioning rather than needing a full rebuild. That being said the easiest answer to getting a running car is taking it to a trans shop for a full rebuild and folding to their price tag.

The factory service manual auto trans section is complete jargon to me, and it's the largest section of the book and the only one with colored pictures.

So if you are thinking of an all out build replacement items like shift kits and end clutch pack is a good idea. I'll also add in the fluid pump seal on the input shafft should also be replaced when trans is serviced

That sounds like a vague answer, but there's not much information out there about them

 

[rEclipserGST]

The only mods I've done to my stock trans so far are: IPT End Clutches, Bigger Trans Cooler, RedLine Trans Fluid, Shift Kit & then finally I added a Forced Four Shift Box.

I'm running:
bastard MHI 20g - it is very hard to kill our trans with torque, torque converter absorbs most the shock & the 20g offers lag to help.
1050cc injectors
400 walbro fuel pump
FMIC & a GFB 1g bov (I will sell you mine if you really want one, I plan on going SD so i will vent to atmosphere, prolly TiAL)
Aluminum Rolls stops
Fender Braces
Solid front strut bar

I went from a 95 auto GST to a 95 auto awd. It's the little things that add up in the long run. Weigh reduction & modding for long term goals.

Maintenance wise I had to flush fluid recently & swap out my Solenoids, the resistance was reading bad. Eventually after pulling the valve body in the transmission pan, I found the wiring harness for the solenoids was damaged. Swapped that with my old spare trans. Back on the road in no time.


As the above guy mentioned, heat is your biggest opponent. Brake boosting and a leaking transmission will kill it faster. Change that fluid with some good stuff. And this thing can last you a long time. My auto GST I had from 82k to 157k. Only rebuilt the trans once & that was right before I swapped it to 5 speed & sold the car.

 

[luigi90210]

The only mods I've done to my stock trans so far are: IPT End Clutches, Bigger Trans Cooler, RedLine Trans Fluid, Shift Kit & then finally I added a Forced Four Shift Box.

I'm running:
bastard MHI 20g - it is very hard to kill our trans with torque, torque converter absorbs most the shock & the 20g offers lag to help.
1050cc injectors
400 walbro fuel pump
FMIC & a GFB 1g bov (I will sell you mine if you really want one, I plan on going SD so i will vent to atmosphere, prolly TiAL)
Aluminum Rolls stops
Fender Braces
Solid front strut bar

I went from a 95 auto GST to a 95 auto awd. It's the little things that add up in the long run. Weigh reduction & modding for long term goals.

Maintenance wise I had to flush fluid recently & swap out my Solenoids, the resistance was reading bad. Eventually after pulling the valve body in the transmission pan, I found the wiring harness for the solenoids was damaged. Swapped that with my old spare trans. Back on the road in no time.


As the above guy mentioned, heat is your biggest opponent. Brake boosting and a leaking transmission will kill it faster. Change that fluid with some good stuff. And this thing can last you a long time. My auto GST I had from 82k to 157k. Only rebuilt the trans once & that was right before I swapped it to 5 speed & sold the car.

thanks for the info, I really just want a street car i can enjoy driving around in and something i can daily, not really looking to race it tbh, its part of the reason why i kept it basically stock and just replaced parts as needed, i just dont want to spend $675 rebuilding my stock turbo when i can buy a Garrett t28 for like $500

I will look into getting a bigger trans cooler for the mean time though, any brands that you can specifically recommend or should i just find a universal one and make it fit?

 

[rEclipserGST]

B&M coolers. Can find those on IPT.com They build transmissions.

And I daily my talon too haha. I would just run a MHI turbo. 14b if you are wanting a t28. No need to spend $675, what turbo you trying to rebuild again? Just get a 16g from Justin Whitesell. Jusmx14 on here i believe.

T28 isnt going to mate up to a traditional fmic easily.

You arent trying to race? Your mod list says otherwise haha.