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2g rear camber adjustment.

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geno414

10+ Year Contributor
440
4
Jan 13, 2011
Milwaukee, Wisconsin
Hi there I have a big problem my rear tires on my gsx are showing the wires on the inside tire closest to the hub inside . I have the " stm " camber kit the bolts I have the washers even threw the wheels and still have bad camber my car is on coil overs and I need some help took my car to fire stone and they said my adjustment bolt is frozen and wont move can some one help me . Because now I need new tires before they blow out
 
I would say that you get either of these depending on how much that car is lowered.

This one goes you -1 to +1 degree:
35850 - Adjustable Rear Control Arm Mounting Kit - Ingalls Engineering Co., Inc.

This one gives you -1 to +3 degrees:
35860 - Adjustable Rear Control Arm Mounting Kit - Ingalls Engineering Co., Inc.

You will need two kits as each one only does one side. If your adjustment bolts are stuck, you will need find a way to get them out without destroying the bushings in the arm. You can try spraying the crap out of them with penetrant, you could try heat....VERY CAREFULLY! Worst case would be either cut them and press out the bushings, then replacing them with Prothane bushings or get new upper control arms.

The most important thing when reassembling any exterior bolts/nuts on these cars is a good coat of copper anti-seize. It will save you endless hours of heartache in the future.
 
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took my car to fire stone and they said my adjustment bolt is frozen and wont move can some one help me

There's no factory camber adjustment on a 2g, which is why you need something like an STM camber bolt kit. They're probably trying to adjust the toe. A few degrees of toe will wear the outer edge of a tire very quickly. A few degrees of camber will only cause some uneven tread wear.
 
I have the " stm " camber kit the bolts

There's no factory camber adjustment on a 2g, which is why you need something like an STM camber bolt kit. They're probably trying to adjust the toe. A few degrees of toe will wear the outer edge of a tire very quickly. A few degrees of camber will only cause some uneven tread wear.

Just noticed.
 
Hi there I have a big problem my rear tires on my gsx are showing the wires on the inside tire closest to the hub inside . I have the " stm " camber kit the bolts I have the washers even threw the wheels and still have bad camber my car is on coil overs and I need some help took my car to fire stone and they said my adjustment bolt is frozen and wont move can some one help me . Because now I need new tires before they blow out

Your tires are wearing like that because the toe is off and can't be adjusted because the cam bolts are seized. You'll need to cut off the arms and get new ones, and new cam bolts.
 
I have the stm camber kit doesn't do anything I think and I also have the even racing toe arms but still get the inside tire where I have all the spacers on them even should I have more on the bottom then the top ? And would a picture help any one ? I could try to upload a picture. Of my tire . But is the problem I am having camber issues or what because I need to fix this before I buy new tires again its just . Out of hand .

I would say that you get either of these depending on how much that car is lowered.

This one goes you -1 to +1 degree:
35850 - Adjustable Rear Control Arm Mounting Kit - Ingalls Engineering Co., Inc.

This one gives you -1 to +3 degrees:
35860 - Adjustable Rear Control Arm Mounting Kit - Ingalls Engineering Co., Inc.

You will need two kits as each one only does one side. If your adjustment bolts are stuck, you will need find a way to get them out without destroying the bushings in the arm. You can try spraying the crap out of them with penetrant, you could try heat....VERY CAREFULLY! Worst case would be either cut them and press out the bushings, then replacing them with Prothane bushings or get new upper control arms.

The most important thing when reassembling any exterior bolts/nuts on these cars is a good coat of copper anti-seize. It will save you endless hours of heartache ion the future.
Will the 2nd kit fix my problem ? I an upload a picture of my tire
 
I'm assuming that he is referring to Megan racing Toe control arms:

Megan Racing

i have those but they do not look like that. for my car all im trying to fix is this tire problem and I don't know if its a camber issue or if its something else I have the stm camber kit but I have 4 washers on top and 4 on the bottom should I just add them to the top and none at the bottom and call it a day ? will that work ?
 
99% of the time, it isn't the Camber that kills tires. Toe kills tires. But because the Camber and Toe on the rear of the 2Gs has the Camber and Toe directly related to each other, a Camber kit should solve your problems.

It may help us to know how lowered your car is to help figure out which kit you need. You said you have coilovers, but not much other than that. Also, if you have pictures available, please post them.
 
99% of the time, it isn't the Camber that kills tires. Toe kills tires. But because the Camber and Toe on the rear of the 2Gs has the Camber and Toe directly related to each other, a Camber kit should solve your problems.

It may help us to know how lowered your car is to help figure out which kit you need. You said you have coilovers, but not much other than that. Also, if you have pictures available, please post them.

I have maybe an inch wheel gap if that in the rear ? I will take photos for you guys to help out when I'm off work but ik its toe and camber the fire stone guy said my adjustment bolt is frozen in the control arm so I bought the stm camber bolt kit and have 4 washers on top and 4 on the bottom . Witch does nothing and the blue Megan racing arms that hook up to move the wheel in or out. But I will take pictures of everything and upload them when I can .

On a different note would this work ? Taking the stm camber kit witch are just bolts and washers
And taking the bottom part of the kit removing all the washers making the bottom suck in ? And put the extra washers on top to push the top out . Since the top part of the wheel toes I and the bottom kicks out ??
 
I have this thread that is similar to yours .
I had to remove my arm, simply because my toe bolt seized it self useless.
If and when you get there, use it for reference.:thumb:


http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/drivetrain-tech/475333-awd-rear-sub-frame-bolt-seized.html

So now i can have my toe adjusted, to make up for my new camber, courtesy of the STM camber bolt/washer kit.

Also, i may be wrong, but i don't suggest you resolve your issue by attempting the above.
 
I have this thread that is similar to yours .
I had to remove my arm, simply because my toe bolt seized it self useless.
If and when you get there, use it for reference.:thumb:


http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/drivetrain-tech/475333-awd-rear-sub-frame-bolt-seized.html

So now i can have my toe adjusted, to make up for my new camber, courtesy of the STM camber bolt/washer kit.

Also, i may be wrong, but i don't suggest you resolve your issue by attempting the above.

Im going to take a impact gun to it and a oxysetlen torch to it to see if I can get away with out taking the arm off :/ . Wile im at work
 
but ik its toe and camber the fire stone guy said my adjustment bolt is frozen in the control arm so I bought the stm camber bolt kit and have 4 washers on top and 4 on the bottom . Witch does nothing and the blue Megan racing arms that hook up to move the wheel in or out. But I will take pictures of everything and upload them when I can .

On a different note would this work ? Taking the stm camber kit witch are just bolts and washers
And taking the bottom part of the kit removing all the washers making the bottom suck in ? And put the extra washers on top to push the top out . Since the top part of the wheel toes I and the bottom kicks out ??

It sounds like you've zeroed in on camber being your main issue, but from what you've posted it sounds like you have an issue with toe in/out. If you have the Megan rear control/toe arms and the stock cam bolt is seized, you should still be able to adjust the toe using the outer part of the Megan control arm (based on pictures I've seen of them). I would start off by getting the rear camber in spec, then adjusting the toe. Putting an uneven amount of washers on the control arm mounting points isn't going to fix anything. Whether you put more washers on the top or bottom, it's going to push the whole control arm/knuckle further out (and probably just put more stress on the bolts).
 
It sounds like you've zeroed in on camber being your main issue, but from what you've posted it sounds like you have an issue with toe in/out. If you have the Megan rear control/toe arms and the stock cam bolt is seized, you should still be able to adjust the toe using the outer part of the Megan control arm (based on pictures I've seen of them). I would start off by getting the rear camber in spec, then adjusting the toe. Putting an uneven amount of washers on the control arm mounting points isn't going to fix anything. Whether you put more washers on the top or bottom, it's going to push the whole control arm/knuckle further out (and probably just put more stress on the bolts).

I agree. It sounds like he must be toed out if he's wearing the inside of the tires out. That, combined with a little camber, and that combo will make short work of tires if the toe is too excessive. I still say getting some pictures up would help.
 
[ame]http://m.ebay.com/itm/300895517416?nav=SEARCH[/ame] have the Megan racing trailing arms for the wheel to be adjusted from right to left would that fix it and the toe adjust bolt is frozen can only move the hole bushing son I will be buying new bolts also .

I have the Megan racing trailing arms for the wheel to be adjusted from right to left would that fix it and the toe adjust bolt is frozen can only move the hole bushing son I will be buying new bolts also .
 
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It sounds like you need to find a shop that really knows how to do a alignment! Any change you can post your last alignment spec sheet? I could tell you right away what the problem is and what need to be adjusted!
 
It sounds like you need to find a shop that really knows how to do a alignment! Any change you can post your last alignment spec sheet? I could tell you right away what the problem is and what need to be adjusted!

Sure if I can find them but I posted a ebay link for toe arms I would like to know if that'd fix it also.
 
It sounds like you need to find a shop that really knows how to do a alignment! Any change you can post your last alignment spec sheet? I could tell you right away what the problem is and what need to be adjusted!

Left front camber -1.6°

Left front caster 3.8°

Left front toe 0.11in

Right front -2.0°

Right front caster 4.8°

Right front caster 0.52in

Total toe 0.630 in

-0.42° steer ahead
:confused:

Left rear camber -2.6°

Left rear toe 0.01in

Right rear camber 2.3°

ReAr right toe -0.37in

Total toe -0.37 in
thrust angle 0.38°

I have pictures of the paper I'm reading off of

Thats the info I have I think imported jt a bit more two I have the megen racing adjustment trailingarms and stm bolt and washer kit I was looking into buying the toe arms because my adjustment bolt is sneezed both sides

Bump
 
THe rear toe at -0.37 is what's killing your tires! Also the rear camber should come in. Oem specs are -1*40'+-30' and toe 3+-3 (.12+-.12). You should also try and get the front camber closer to the same number. Try to get to 0 for the front toe one side is 0.52! Ouch!! camber is even supposed to be close to 0* 20'+-30'! I would try to get both sides to 1.6 and zero out toe and your tires won't chew up at all, same for the back!
 
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