2G problems

[njdsm1991]

ok well....where to start...

well i have a 1995 eagle talon ESI (no turbo) for about 6 months now, its my first one, and i am looking for some help in the following problems...

1) Bad Idle - when i start my car for the first time of the day, it idles fine, at about 1k or so, but after its warmed up it idles very rough. it idles about 300-500 rpm when warmed up. i have replaced vacuum lines between PCV (also replaced) and the valve cover, but it didnt help any. ok, now idk if this is the problem or not, but my mechanic said it wasnt...the vacuum line, between the valve cover and the main intake hose (after the air filter box) is kinda broken, so i have it rigged up, would that cause it?

2) Overheating - when i am driving it doesnt overheat, it stays at operating temp only, BUT when i am stopped for a good length of time after i have drivin it for a little bit, then it will overheat, until i start driving it again, then it slowly comes back to normal operating temp. i have replaced the upper and lower radiator hoses, the radiator cap, and i am going to replace the water pump soon. i have also flushed the system when i replaced hoses, so im not sure whats going on...?

3) Transmission - ok there are 2 things that happen. First, the trans slips out of gear, it has plenty of fluid, and i will be putting a new filter in to see if that helps. but it only seems to happen when the motor gets to runs to hot (seen above) for to long, so im not sure what is going on. Second, every once in a while, it will start in 2nd gear and nvr shift from it, i have to turn off the car and wait a few minutes for it to work properly again.

so can ANYONE help me out, i figured this was the best place to ask, you guys know more than i do about these. If you have any other questions feel free to ask me ill try as best i can to answer you. thank you once again.

 

[lilbro717]

the overheating issue might be because your fans arent turning on, first check the fuse, if thats fine, go for a drive, get it to temp, pull over and check if the fans are on

 

[njdsm1991]

my one fan turns on (drivers side), but the other one doesnt (passenger side) i can hear the one running, but they say the other one is a AC fan, and i have no AC so idk what to do about that.

 

[njdsm1991]

ok, umm can ANYONE tell me whats going on or am i at a lose?

 

[EuroDriver]

I'll give you my 2 cents.. I may be wrong but suggestions may help..

The air filter box not the cause of your issues. You could theoretically run the car without the box if it was safe from foreign garbage. I would need engine type to anylize this. If it's the sister motor (dodge) I'm not familiar with it.. It sounds like you are describing the valve cover "breather" hose. Is it full of oil?

The overheating could be caused by NO thermostat OR a STUCK/STINKING thermostat. This would explain why it overheats during idle because it desn't allow the water sufficient time to cool in radiator. It's just rushing through... I would get the OEM or less temp rated thermostat if you replace it.

>Check if you have a constant flow of water with you cap off (before it heats up). If you have a flow of coolant, this is definitly your problem. If your car heats up and you don't see any coolant flow then this could still be the problem but the water pump is now suspect too. Take the thermostat out and check again.. If you have no flow with the radiator cap off, then it's the pump (this sucks, but at least you know)

The trannie.. sorry to tell you that it needs to be rebuilt. The infomous shift fork and syncro sounds like your problem.

>BUT check the slave and master cylinder to see if the "nipple" is going all the way out on the slave. The heat could be causing the fluid to heat up and stop working as good as it shoud be. This could prevent the master from pushing the nipple far enough out to shift a broken gear. Usually this is THE CAUSE of the trannie breaking in the first place (the slave and master system) You can also adjust the clutch pedal inside to push the "nipple" out more. Be careful not to over/under adjust the pedal.

I hope this helps... I'm new like you, so please check stuff as you go.. not trying to send you down the wrong path.

 

[njdsm1991]

ya my breather hose is kind of broken, so i have it rigged up a bit .

and about the thermostat i will probably try a 185 or so, but ill check the flow and all what you said. i do have a water pump in the back. i plan on puttiing it in sometime soon. so if nothing else both of them can be fixed. preventative maintnance .

the trans however, after thinkin about it, i kindfa figured it needs a rebuild, but im gonna bother with it .

now with the master and slave cylinders, can u explain that again, im not to sure whats going on with that. i dont know to much about that stuff.

 

[EuroDriver]

The slave and master system for the clutch works hydrolically. The type of hydrolic fluid does affect it's operation. (higher heat) It should be the same stuff that you have in your brakes.

>The master sits inside the engine compartment next to the brake master and booster and has the reservior and clutch pedal attached to it.

You can follow the line to the slave.. if you wanted to

>>(inside)The clutch pedal is attached/held to the master by a single "bolt" and pin. The bolt can be removed and the master has a screw bracket. This can be screwed out/in. You can adjust the clutch pedal height using this.

This adjustment will affect when/how much the master cylinder engages the slave.

For example:

If you back the screw all the way out. The clutch will engage high, ensuring that you are using all of the cylinder. (slave side = nipple all the way out as far as it can go) The instant you push the pedal, it starts to engage the clutch and continues until probably about half way.. (but you still push to the bottom.. if you like, I do) This will also get rid of any play in the pedal. (my preference) << This is how I set mine

>>>HAZARD! If you go out too far.. the clutch slave stays engaged. Yes, even without the pedal. This will lead to Master and slave wear, burnt clutches, falling out of gears, and slippage with torque. BUT the trannie will be safe.

If you back the screw all the way in. The clutch will engage low, not ensuring that you are using all of the cylinder. You will push the pedal about half way or more before it starts to engage.. The pedal will have a crap load of play before it engages the clutch.

>>>HAZARD! If you go in too far.. the clutch slave won't engage enough. Yes, even with the pedal to the metal. This will lead to grinding, broken gears.. you get the picture.. The reason is because you are forcing the trannie into gear with a half ass clutch.

There is a balance there.. if you just wanna be in the middle with some play but it's difficult to find. The master and slave do wear and have to be adjusted with normal wear and tear. The service manual gives (.04-.12 in.) of pedal play.. YES, that's all you should feel before you feel the master cylinder. The play before clutch is (.24-.51 in.)

>The slave cylinder is located on the bottom and is very visible from underneath the front of the car. You'll see it's little nipple and sits next to a lever. It pushes the lever, engaging the clutch. It has a bleeder valve, like brakes. You bleed it the same way.

>>>HAZARD! If you can't adjust the pedal like I told you, then one of these are bad. I normally replace the slave, bleed and adjust. The master will be obvious.

Like I stated before, many people don't adjust this and end up tearing up transmissions. I broken shift forks in half and ate syncros in a 300ZX TT because I didn't know about the system. (same clutch system) That cost me $2,000 to rebuild. All because of stupid adjustments and cheap master/slave cylinders.



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You can do a MANIFOLD VACUUM CHECK with a vacuum gauge to check your vacuum

1. Before inspection, set vehicles in the following condition:
>Engine coolant temperature: 80-95°C (176-203°F)
>Lights, electric cooling fan, and accessories: OFF
>Transaxle: Neutral (P range on vehicles with A/T)

2. Set up the tachometer or connect the scan tool to the data link connector.

3. Attach a three-way joint to the vacuum hose connected between the intake manifold plenum and the fuel pressure solenoid valve and connect a vacuum gauge.

4. Start the engine, and check that curb idle speed is within the standard value range.

5. Check the manifold vacuum.

 

[njdsm1991]

umm i forgot to mention that i drive an A/T.

so is there anything else you can think of?

 

[EuroDriver]

 

[njdsm1991]

ya sorry that was my fault.

any other ideas?

 

[junkyarddsm]

have you checked your oil for a muddy/ milky wight color. If it looks like that you have a bad head gasket and that would cause the over heating along with the bad running when it warms up.

 

[EuroDriver]

There's no reason why your car shouldn't run great after this..

First off, the reason you messing up the transmission is because you are over heating your car. FIX the cooling problem ASAP. The trannie has an oil cooler. It's inside the radiator in the front. It sits on the bottom of your radiator.. has 2 small hoses running to your transmission. You should be able to trace them back easily.



>> PRINT THIS POST AND PICS << read and follow

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TRANSAXLE FAIL SAFE SYSTEM

The transaxle control unit has a fail-safe function that provides control to achieve maximum vehicle safety in the event of an electronic circuit failure or malfunction, or error caused by the driver. The control and construction are as described below.

(1) The circuit that supplies hydraulic pressure to the function elements that don't couple simultaneously is composed of a switching valve
device that cannot supply hydraulic pressure simultaneouslv so that there IS no 'internal locking of the gear train.

(2) Even if there is an attempted shift to R (reverse) while the vehicle is moving forward at a speed of 7 km/h (4.3 mph) or higher, the hydraulic pressure to the low-reverse brake is electrically interrupted SO that the shift cannot be made. As a result, there is, unlike previously, no damage to the transaxle and no engine stall.

(3) In case the transaxle control unit detects any of the following states, it considers that. particular state a "failure" and provides control (Locked in 3rd gear or 2nd gear; reverse is available) depending on the item considered a failure.

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SELF-DIAGNOSYS SYSTEM
The transaxle control unit has self-diagnosis function. Self-diagnosiscodes can be read by connecting a voltmeter to the diagnosis connector on the side of the junction block.


SELF-DIAGNOSYS

There are 25 diagnosis items, including those items indicating normal conditions; a maximum of 10 items can be stored in memory in the order that they occur. The memory is supported by a power supply directly connected to the battery so that it is retained even after the Ignition switch is turned to the off position.

To clear the memory once an inspection has been completed. keep negative (-) terminal of the battery disconnected for 10 seconds or longer.

 

[njdsm1991]

ya i know for sure its not the head gasket, but thanks. i just checked the oil in it a few days ago and its fine i havent drivin it in 5 days.

about fixing the cooling problem, ive heard i can use a 180 degree thermostat instead of the 195, will that make it run cooler? and also, ive been told i can take the thermostat out of it, so the coolant is always flowing and ii will make the car run a lot cooler than what it is. IS THIS TRUE????

 

[EuroDriver]

No.. don't take the thermostat out. If it wasn't needed then no car would have it.

It's not true that it will run cooler.

BASICS

1st- when the thermostat is closed the water in the radiator is cooled

IF you eliminate this, the water isn't given a chance to cool (flowing constantly). The engine would have constant hot water. In traffic, you would be screwed.

2nd- The engine has an operating temp AND it's not cold.. it's supposed to heat up (the thermostat ensures this)

3rd- Once it heats up, the thermostat opens. Replacing the hot water with cold water until the thermostat closes. (back to 1)

I would stick with an OEM temp.. don't overanalyze it.

 

[njdsm1991]

ok well its nice today, so im gonna check this all out.

thanks for the heads up.