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2g head on 6 bolt block in 98 gsx

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KeelesKustome

15+ Year Contributor
882
15
Dec 29, 2007
Waverly, Tennessee
I have searched and read like crazzy on this, so i apologize for still needing to post up these questions. I have not found any of my answers.


I am going to be installing a 6 bolt turbo block with a 2g head combination. I've read magnuses guide for a 1g install but not a hybrid.

1. did magnus over complicate the oil pump? i've read where a galant oil pump works perfectly. Although it would worry me that a non turbo ouil pump might not have the same flow rate as a oem turbocharged powerplant, is their a difference? what the purpose for keeping the 2g pump, is it for the crank angle sensor?

2.what parts do i need to keep 2g and or 1g?

3. motor mounts, is this as easy as just shaving the metal down to fit? similar to the 2g water pump that needs to be used?

4. what compression would my engine be with this setup? and should i get some 2g pistons with wrist pins machined to fit on the 1g rods?

5. i should buy a BSE kit for the 2g?

6. any links to threads showing this similar build would be greatly appriciated.

7. which head gasket should i need to buy? i'm most likely going with oem so if you happen to have that part # that would be great.

8.is their anything I have missed?

regards,
Brandon
 
im not positive on this, but i think there are a couple of (water jacket?) holes that need to be plugged on the block.
 
Might be a bit complicated..

Plus getting the ECU/Tune for that setup is pretty tough...
 
If you google "rre 6 bolt swap" it'll show a link to RoadRaceEngineering's method for doing the swap and what parts are need from which engine.
 
so no-one has put a 2g head on a 6bolt block?
 
I'm currently working on this. I had a 6bolt with a 2g head purchased from KarKing that seized on me. I'm putting my head on to a 6 bolt turbo block and figuring out what is wrong while I go through it. According to the machine shop, they said everything swapped over fine except for my crank trigger sensor. I'm going down the black cas route now and hope to have it back in a couple of weeks. I'll try and blog it answer any questions. I've subscribed to this thread so I should be able to add some information as it comes in.


d
 
so no-one has put a 2g head on a 6bolt block?

Yes - don't you read? The head will bolt right down no problem. But the 2g CAS will not work with a 1g front cover.
That is the reason I gave you the link for the sonata front cover - read it!

Also look up "oil port mod". If you use a 2g head and arp head bolts you are restricting the oil flow to the head and the passage has to be opened up.
 
1. did magnus over complicate the oil pump? i've read where a galant oil pump works perfectly. Although it would worry me that a non turbo ouil pump might not have the same flow rate as a oem turbocharged powerplant, is their a difference? what the purpose for keeping the 2g pump, is it for the crank angle sensor?

Magnus used the modified 2g oil pump BEFORE they figured out the 6 bolt CAS can send both the crank and the cam signals. The most common way people do the 6 bolt swap is to use the 6 bolt CAS and remove the 7bolt crank angle sensor since there is no location for it on the 6 bolt oil pump.

2.what parts do i need to keep 2g and or 1g?

2g stuff. Head, tstat housing, water pipe, intake gasket.
1g stuff. block, crank, rods and pistons, water pump, oil pump, oil pan, rear main seal, and any gasket on the lower end.
head gasket and exhaust gasket can be from 90-99.

3. motor mounts, is this as easy as just shaving the metal down to fit? similar to the 2g water pump that needs to be used?

You will need a jigsaw or some way to cut off a large chuck of the motor mount bracket. It will be obvious when you go to bolt it on.

4. what compression would my engine be with this setup? and should i get some 2g pistons with wrist pins machined to fit on the 1g rods?

Compression ~178psi for a 2g
~165psi for a 1g

the 2g/1g combo is a proven awesome budget combo. Dont let anyone talk you out of it.

5. i should buy a BSE kit for the 2g?
Sure why not, that answer is up to you.

7. which head gasket should i need to buy? i'm most likely going with oem so if you happen to have that part # that would be great.
Any head gasket from 90-99 would work. only go MLS if you are getting both the head and block resurfaced for it. How do you know if your surface is good for MLS. TELL the machine shop BEFORE you get it decked. Dont worry about using a OEM composite gasket because with ARPs you can hit 30psi safely (with a good tune and appropiately sized turbo.)

8.is their anything I have missed?
The head stud holes in the 2g head will need to be drilled open to accept the 1g headstuds. the 1g head studs are larger than the 2g.
 
You need to either run a 98 hyundai oil pump, or use a 1g cas, same as a regular 6-bolt swap. Your engine mount needs to be ground to fit around the 6-bolt water pump. What head you use has nothing to do with making a 6-bolt block run in a 2g.
 
okay thanx for the great responses,

2 post have me slighly confused.

one says to plug some oil gallies for the head swap and another says to port it.... which is it if any at all?

I plan on purchasing the arp head studs that are designed to be fit this swap.
 
okay thanx for the great responses,

2 post have me slighly confused.

one says to plug some oil gallies for the head swap and another says to port it.... which is it if any at all?

I plan on purchasing the arp head studs that are designed to be fit this swap.
The bolt holes in a 7-bolt head are made for 11mm bolts, run a 1/2" drill through them for the larger 12mm 6-bolt studs. Other than that no mods are needed to put a 2g head on a 1g block. The blocking of passages is for using a 4g64 block.
 
donnie: i had just got done with alot more research before i read your post and so far i do believe you are correct. I was told by the how to build a 4g63t engine book to always buy the head gasket for the block you will be using, and then motify it to the head if it is needed, so that was some sound info .

the more i think about this oil pump with crank case sensor i am thinking i can accomplish what they have done with a drill press fairley easily on the oem 2g oil pump, i know tapping holes in the block will be time consming but, if this fixes a random missfire it's def worth the time and energy on my part.
as theirs to manny questions left unanswered with no photos of anyone doing the hyundia oil pump swap.

so is the dome on the 2g head the same as the 1g? meaning when i bolt the 2g head down the clearence won't make it less than the comp ratio the 1g came with?

as for drilling the holes bigger myself on the head, doesn't sound like my cup of tea. when i can buy an arp kit to remedy the problem

i can't believe a co. has took the modified oil pump idea and went with it making aftermarket kits..... whats their deal, i see a money maker idea right their.
 
donnie: i had just got done with alot more research before i read your post and so far i do believe you are correct. I was told by the how to build a 4g63t engine book to always buy the head gasket for the block you will be using, and then motify it to the head if it is needed, so that was some sound info .

the more i think about this oil pump with crank case sensor i am thinking i can accomplish what they have done with a drill press fairley easily on the oem 2g oil pump, i know tapping holes in the block will be time consming but, if this fixes a random missfire it's def worth the time and energy on my part.
as theirs to manny questions left unanswered with no photos of anyone doing the hyundia oil pump swap.

so is the dome on the 2g head the same as the 1g? meaning when i bolt the 2g head down the clearence won't make it less than the comp ratio the 1g came with?

as for drilling the holes bigger myself on the head, doesn't sound like my cup of tea. when i can buy an arp kit to remedy the problem

i can't believe a co. has took the modified oil pump idea and went with it making aftermarket kits..... whats their deal, i see a money maker idea right their.

The 98 hyundai sonata has a 6-bolt engine with a crank sensor, use it's oil pump.
 
donnie: is this something you've done personally? do you have photos of your setup if so?

https://www.shophyundaiparts.com/hyundai-sonata-parts.html
so I'm looking at $255.75 for a oil pump not counting shipping and the cover.?
i would still buy the bse kit for the 6 bolt correct?

I have seen 2.4 6-bolt g4cs with the hyundai pump, and have pulled 96-98 hyundai 6-bolts with that front case. I would use the hyundai 2.0 liter, 6-bolt g4cp block just to make sure the bolt holes line up.

Edit The bolt pattern Is unique to the 96-98 hyundai blocks. But they are 6-bolt blocks. I can visually inspect one tomorrow to find the exact differences.
 
Anything that bolts to the block is what you'll need for that block. A 6 bolt block will take a 6-bolt oil pump. Same with the water pump (if there is even a difference.) I know the water pipe goes into the pump the same way. The Driver's side motor mount cast iron piece will need to have stuff shaved, it bolts to the block. The 2g head may or may not need to have the holes to the head bolts/studs bored out. Anything that bolts to the 2g head that is specific to the 2g head is what you will need, and the 2g water pipe. Since you will not have the crank trigger anymore you will need to do that rewire to use a 1g CAS, and the intake cam will need to be provisioned for that type of cam sensor. It's more complicated to talk about than to actually see in person.
 
I have searched and read like crazzy on this, so i apologize for still needing to post up these questions. I have not found any of my answers.


I am going to be installing a 6 bolt turbo block with a 2g head combination. I've read magnuses guide for a 1g install but not a hybrid.

1. did magnus over complicate the oil pump? i've read where a galant oil pump works perfectly. Although it would worry me that a non turbo ouil pump might not have the same flow rate as a oem turbocharged powerplant, is their a difference? what the purpose for keeping the 2g pump, is it for the crank angle sensor?

2.what parts do i need to keep 2g and or 1g?

3. motor mounts, is this as easy as just shaving the metal down to fit? similar to the 2g water pump that needs to be used?

4. what compression would my engine be with this setup? and should i get some 2g pistons with wrist pins machined to fit on the 1g rods?

5. i should buy a BSE kit for the 2g?

6. any links to threads showing this similar build would be greatly appriciated.

7. which head gasket should i need to buy? i'm most likely going with oem so if you happen to have that part # that would be great.

8.is their anything I have missed?

regards,
Brandon

1. Yes magnus did complicate this a little just like stated above, they did that before they figured out the 1g CAS works. Check out Road Race Engineering for their write up on how to install this specific set-up.

6 Bolt Motor Install Into a 2G Eclipse

2. Check the link above

3. Yes, the motor mount that mounts to the block just needs to be machined thats is.

4. The 2g pistons are not whats machined, its the rods. You have the small end of the 6 bolt rods machined to fit the 22mm wrist pin and then just buy a set of 2g pistons. This will increase your compression from 7.8:1 (factory six bolt) to 8.5:1 (factory 7 bolt) but uses the thicker, stronger 6 bolt rods. Check them out:

DSM Graveyard - Your #1 Source for DSM Parts!

5. Yes buy a balance shaft eliminator kit for your 6 bolt (1g) block. It will help you motor last longer.

6. All the info you need it on that first link I posted from Road Race Engineering above.

7. OEM composite head gaskets are good up to 28psi. After that you need an MLS head gasket. Here you go:

EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts - OEM Composite Head Gasket : Mitsubishi Eclipse 90-99 DSM

8. Again refer to the first link, if you got everything there then your set.


You WILL have to drill the holes on the 7 bolt head 1mm over since the holes on the block are bigger. Always use the studs made for the block so get some 6 bolt ARP head studs and get the 2g head to work with them. I have no idea what the hyundai oil pump is for, I've always just said use the 1g CAS.

Get new timing components water pump, timing belt, etc, and your set. Hope this helps.
 
^^^ your a life saver!
I have dsmlink so the random misfire should be fixable i think,,, that will require more research.
once home from work I'll have to look into the cam sensor you speak of.... this setup will actually save me alot of money without trying machine work witch i do not do for a living,
would you know the compression ratio this combo will create hybrid together like this?
I have a 6 bolt short block complete on it's way to me and thats why i need to know so soon.
 
I have seen 2.4 6-bolt g4cs with the hyundai pump, and have pulled 96-98 hyundai 6-bolts with that front case. I would use the hyundai 2.0 liter, 6-bolt g4cp block just to make sure the bolt holes line up.

Edit The bolt pattern Is unique to the 96-98 hyundai blocks. But they are 6-bolt blocks. I can visually inspect one tomorrow to find the exact differences.

This must be why my 6 bolt from KarKing is all wonky. They are using 6bolt blocks from hyundai for their builds. It allows them to run a 2G crank sensor but you need a goofy Oil Filter Housing. The one they give you does not have a provision for an idiot light but the pressure sensor does work.

d
 
No differences in the output of the oil pumps, the only real difference is in the casting on the 95 and up 7-bolt motots to allow mounting and use of a crank angle sensor. As someone else posted just use the standard 6-bolt pump and one of the three differnt 1G cam angle sensors. I have found the 1990 sensor to work well as it includes a pigtail of wire to attach a connector of your choosing too.

Number 2 is a big question, and one you can find on this site repeted many times on this site. Off the top of my head you will need the 2G engine mounts, engine front (car drivers side) engine mount that forms part of the timing belt tensioning system. This will bolt on your 6-bolt block but will need to be modified a bit to clear the water pump. This allows direct attachment of the drivers side motor mount to the engine. Since your unsing the 2G cylinder head you will need the 2G water pipe, and t-stat housing, keep and reuse your 2G accessories and bracket for power stearing, alternator and A/C. You will need a 1G 6-bolt AWD or FWD flywheel/flexplate to attach to the 6-bolt crank. a 1G CAS, timing belt pulleys, tensioner lever, and tensioner. Assuming your running the stock intake keep the 2G coil and power transistor. I am sure I missed a few items so sorry.

Use the 2g mounts, and grind/cut the 2G (driver side) engine mount bracket to clear the water pump.

Your choice here 1G = 7.8:1 2G = 8.5:1. Again as someone already stated what needs to be machined on a 6-bolt to accept the 2G piston are the connecting rods. However by the time you buy new 2G pistons and pay to have the 1G rods modified you might just as well purchase a set of Wiseco pistons and end up with 9:1, but buy 1G pistons that way your rods will not need to be modified.

You could or you can make your own, if you know what to do

I have had great succes with Cometic head gaskets.
 
I did not do my build I used showdown to do the build. He modified the 7 bolt oil pump so that I could use all seven bolt parts. It works like a charm.

If you are using a 7 bolt head with arp head studs on a 6 bolt block, make sure that you do the oil galley mod.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/341028-4g63t-head-oil-port-mod.html

I was not aware of it at the time so will eventually pull my head to do it.
 
all these last posts are what, i was in need of, i plan on keeping this build under control and with lots of photos , to help others in the future.
thanx for your imput it's given me a good direction to head in.
 
6 Bolt Motor Install Into a 2G Eclipse This is what i purchased for the cas problem. Im doing the exact thing and everyhting ive read is pretty straight forward and all of it is mentioned here. I have a 6 bolt oil and water pump, as well as the nec. timing components. The head does need to be resized for the 6 bol head studs. As for the oil port mod, bogusvo has a write up in the how to section i believe on this. Theirs no need for dong any mods to the 7 bolt oil pump unless u want to keep the cas sensor, and believe i found a site that has the plate mad for a 6 bolt block so you can use the sensor...i think it was rather expensive though.
 
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