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2G 2g 7 bolt head on 6 bolt block swap in 95 gsx

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NoCure4TheItch

Probationary Member
3
0
May 12, 2009
kansas city, Missouri
i found one post that was like this but only looking for timing belt.
this might be just newbie stuff but im new to the dsm cars.

long story short i have a 1995 gsx dumb shit before me dumped the clutch and broke the timing belt along with trying to start it 20 times after. i have a good idea the head has seen its last day.

what i am trying to do is swap a 1991 6 bolt. (i can get a long block w/out ex manifold from a friend) but wanted to use a new (still need to find) 2g head. i will use the stock 2g int/ex manifolds (or evo3/smiler ex manifold) , stock 2g tb, stock turbo (unless i can get a pte 50/54 trim for cheap). stock fuel pump and injectors for now. stock side mount intercooler for now.


so here is my questions!
will this work?
do i need to change the head bolts? (if so to what)
can i use the stock 2g ecu or will it need modification to run?
would the 2g coil pack work?

other than the questions i ask what else do i need or is good to know? or what would you do?

Thanks
-Michael
 
Yeah it can be done, it should use the same stuff on the 2g head that it currently uses. Since your still using your original head you can use your original sensors and everything. You will need to switch to 6 bolt head studs and drill the headstud holes in your head from 11mm to 12mm. Here is a thread on the 6 bolt swap. 6 bolt swap.
 
You will need to get 6 bolt head studs for the block. You can take a drill to the head stud holes on the 7 bolt head to fit the 6 bolt block. Sometimes it will even fit straight on without any drilling. You'll need 6 bolt timing stuff, 6 bolt water pump, 6 bolt front case/oil pump if you don't already have it. Also you will need a 6 bolt flywheel. Clutch disk and PP are the same. You can also re-use the starter plate. I think everything else is the same. I just did that exact same thing. Good luck!
 
the head bolt holes on the 2g head need to be reemed to .500 nom or 1/2 inch for the head bolts/studs

how bad is the orginal 2g head? it may be able to be saved.
Post a pic n lets see how smashed up it is.
If the valves are just bent, you may be ok.

the 2nd one will let you know why, the first is something you may want to do.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/341028-4g63t-head-oil-port-mod.html

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cylinder-head-short-block/341885-oil-port-mod-2-4g63t.html
 
i have a 2g and im about to do that too...i just bought a 6bolt block some ppl told me i have to drill the head bolt holes and the tranny just bolts right up to the 6bolt block...do i need to buy a longer timing belt or something??..can u guys tell me what else do i need??..
 
i have a similar project going on but its oppositie i have a 2g bottom w/ a 1g head but keep running into troubles on it can anyone help with letting me know what steps need to be taken to complete this project, want to get my car running again any help will work
 
Im going to be doing the same thing! Im just waiting for my 7 bolt to crankwalk since its out of mitsu's spec.'s and building the 6 bolt bottom end on the side. I managed to pick up a 2.3 stroker kit so our builds will be a little different, but keep us updated on anything else we may need to accomplish the swap. Good luck!
 
Can you get more power out of a 6bolt block head combo or a 6 bolt block with a head swap
 
More power with a stock 1g head, better response with a 2g head, although this point is argued. The argument is a 2g head helps with responsiveness because its smaller ports, which increase intake air velocity, which helps in off boost power. And since ultimately you can't flow anymore air than the size of your valves during a valve event, it would seem that the 1g head port size is overkill
 
If the bodies a 95 you'll want to get a 2g ecu and coilpack. One thing thats also mentioned alot about these builds is a new water & oil line for the turbo, sometimes people dont have enough water lines so you just need to add in a T fitting somewhere to make a new line.

Also once you figure out which ECU you're going to get, figure out what CAS on the head you will use. Either splice the factory cable for the 1g Cas or buy a premade from magnus. The crank sensor by the timing cover is not used here but the ecu still needs the signal.

I've just done this swap entirely and its working out beautifully. It's called a 1G in a 2G swap, hence my username. Just type that into google and you can find anything you need. I can give you some pointers though

The idea behind using a 2g head on a 6 bolt block is for increased air velocity. The 2G head is nearly identical to the evos head compared to the 6 bolt head, and that's why.
 
ok sweet! i dont know if you remember bogusSVO, but i ran into a big snag with my 20g build. friend of mine has given me a 7bolt sort block. so im just going to slap that badboy in the laser and make it work. LOL thanks for all your help.
 
Does the torque spec change for bolting a 7 bolt head to a 6 bolt block? I am doing this as well because my 6 bolt head is out of spec and cannot be repaired, and I have 2 7 bolt heads sitting around right now.

To make sure I understand correctly though, do I need to remove the cam gears from the 6 bolt and put them on the 7 bolt cams? Also what do I do about the cas? I have a 97 cas on my 7 bolt heads and a black top cas on my 6 bolt head.

This motor is currently overcoming a lot of changes. I just bought this car a week ago, and was told ot had a fresh rebuild. After 3 days of daily driving, didnt want to put stress on fresh rebuilt engine, it spun a rod bearing. The guy told me I must not have had oil in it or something and has not responded to me since. Upon tearing down the engine, I found no gaskets in the bottom end, oil pump is seized up, ebay pistons that are siezed to the pins on the rods, crank had been machined before and std bearings were installed on an oversized crank, and half the stuff this guy told me was installed, arp this, act that, etc, was not here. This was the cheapest way to get an engine running and is full of all ebay parts. The metal from the bearing that was missing on the rod is everywhere, which is why the head is out of spec. Luckily crank shop told me crank can be saved and is being machined to its last size. Cylinder walls somehow werethe only place that was not damaged, aside from needing to be reemed, but you can tell it has a fresh hone on it. I am basically try to turn this $4000 talon into something that is not a nightmare to look at everyday.
 
Torque spec is for the hardware itself so reference either the service manual for stock studs or whatever hardware you choose to go with. Cam gears and cams are interchangeable. Install the blacktop in the 7 bolt head.
 
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