2G 2g fuel supply line

[joejoe13]

Hi all looking for some advise.
The lovely PA rotted out my 95 GSX. After some time I found a rust free donor car to put my motor and trans in. I will need to come up with a clutch setup but that’s down the road for setups but will probably need some advice on that as well.

For now I have discovered a few problems with this car. Previous owner must have left some gas in the car and it dried in the tank and lines. Car had sat since 2011. I had no idea you could get rust to stick to the bottom of a plastic gas tank. The sending units are frozen and rusted solid. I pulled my old tank out and is ready to go into it. I did check the fuel supply line from the tank to the filter and it had a bunch of rust and crud in it so that needs replaced. I got it out but had to cut it into 3 pieces to get it out from between the firewall and subframe. I have a friend that is going to bend me a new one out of 3/8 line and flare it for me.

My question is how do you get that line back in there?

Is there an easy way of doing it. I know some people have gone ss braided and I assume that would make my life easier for an install. I think the return line is okay and thought about leaving it. The car was running fine prior to parking it other than the clutch slipping.

It has a 255 pump 880cc injectors, stock fuel rail and ECMLink v3. I didn't know if I changed lines if I would need a retune for it. If I do go ss lines, size would really help, not the best with fuel setups and flow rates and stuff. Thanks for your help in advance.

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[joejoe13]

Well I got all the pieces in finally to do the job and get the tank back in. I can’t get that fitting out if the hanger to use stms however. I did try the vice trick and still no luck

Guys......I literally just did this last night. Put the TANK FLAIR FITTING in a vice, then remove the other fitting (or in my case a rubber line). That will keep you from twisting the tube and mangling the nut for future use. From then on, that connection will break loose easier from the top, where we should service it from.
The pump hanger on the LEFT with the Aeromotive 340 on it is the one I pulled out last night. Its feed hose was on VERY tight so I stuck the flair tube into the vise jaws and then removed the rubber line that came out from under the car. Using that method, you won't kink a line or mess up a flair nut.
Marty

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How bad would it be to just slip the line on there and use a few fuel clamps?

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Use fuel injection line and fuel injection hose clamps. Double the clamps on both ends if you want to be sure it won't leak. I've done it with transmission cooler lines before and they hold around 200+ psi. It's a bandaid but sometimes you gotta do what ya gotta do. I don't condone nor condemn it. It's a repair. Keep an eye on it til you can fix it correctly.
Have you tried a little heat on the fitting while trying to remove the fitting? I would. Just a small amount of heat on the fitting to help it expand.

 

[We're on Boost]

How bad would it be to just slip the line on there and use a few fuel clamps?

The OEM hose barb fitting that you can't get off is made for 5/16" hose. Or at least, that's what it is on a 1G. So probably your -6 nylon braided hose is going to be a loose fit on it, because the -6 Vibrant braided hose has an ID of 0.344" according to Vibrant. Might actually work, I don't know. With a couple of fuel injection type hose clamps.

Probably the "real" way to do this is with 5/16" fuel injection hose shoved onto that old stuck hose barb and clamped to it with 2 small hose clamps of the fuel injection type, which puts a more even pressure all the way around than the worm-gear type clamps.
Then to get the other end of your 5/16" hose connected to the end of your STM kit hose, you could use a 5/16" to -6AN male fitting. Again with clamps on the hose. The fitting would be like this, if you can get one, or comparable of another brand:

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The AN end of that fitting would go into the "Straight -6AN Black Swivel Hose End Fitting" that you got from STM for the end of the hose.


I actually had 5/16" fuel injection hose from my stuck original hose barb to my original hard line under the car, with a Walbro 255 in the tank. Had it that way for several years. It was fine. Here's a shot of it:

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[We're on Boost]

Fuel injection hose is not a dirt cheap item like you might think.

30R7 and 30R10 are not the right spec for high pressure fuel injection systems.

30R9 used to be good stuff when it was the mainstream FI hose. Now it's hard to find and too expensive. Now the fuel injection hose sold by Gates meets the newer, higher standard 30R14T2.

As far as I know, the best quality hose for the best price in a small amount is:
Gates Barricade Fuel Injection Hose, 15' Length, Inner Diameter 5/16" which you can buy on Amazon for $48 which is about $12 less than I paid for it last year! That's only $3.20 per foot. It is 30R14T2 hose.

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Amazon shows it on a spool but the 15 foot length doesn't come that way. It comes in a box about 1 foot by 1 foot which is good, and the box has a Gates label on it with the number 27348. The label will also say it is 4219BF which is actually the Gates hose type.

Or you can buy it for $9.50 per foot from O'Reilly's.
Or for about $8.50 per foot from NAPA but they don't say it's Gates. They say it's NAPA!

 

[We're on Boost]

If none of that looks good to you, there is another way that Marty showed Bedicine in a thread a few weeks ago. In that way, you modify the pump hanger by cutting out that whole pipe that has your stuck fitting on one end and the wide-mouth pump receiver on the other end. Now there is a hole in the lid. You put a bulkhead fitting through that hole.

The bulkhead fitting has a -6 AN male on the top end and a hose barb for 5/16" hose on the bottom end. So you still need some 5/16" hose but it's a different type - it should be the submersible type, 30R10. The hose is 5/16" because the Walbro 255 outlet pipe is made for 5/16" hose.

You put a -6 AN elbow (90 degree) on top of the bulkhead fitting. Male AN to Female AN.

And there you have it, basically. The elbow male end attaches to the end of your STM hose.

When you look at pics of this method, you'll see the pump strapped with either hose clamps or zip ties, to the vertical part of the hanger. There needs to be some submersible rubber in there to shim the pump out to where the outlet pipe is lined up with your bulkhead fitting. Lining that up takes some care so as to not put a large sideways load on the outlet pipe of your pump when you tighten the clamps or ties.

Once you find a bulkhead fitting you like, you need to buy a drill the right size to drill the lid of course.
Your pump will fit in nicer than what you see in the Bedicine thread because your pump isn't as big as the 400.
You might still be able to use the rubber "isolator" at the bottom, which he couldn't do.

Here's the Bedicine thread:

https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/walbro-400lph-install.541876/#post-153867066

Here is a proper bulkhead fitting:

Pardon Our Interruption

 

[joejoe13]

Since it seems you have already pulled the oem line you will not need to drop the subframe anymore. Dropping the subframe was to get the line off WITHOUT cutting it . When you get a new AN line you can just feed it down through the back of the subframe.

Stock oem lines are around -6AN I believe so if you want an upgrade still IMO, just run -6AN braided line. What line you get is up to you. I personally use Vibrant for all my lines and fittings. But there are many many options. @Kai Hefner makes printed holders for upgraded lines just so you know too.

Any idea what the holders look like or how much?

 

[Justin DuBois]

Reused hardlines, with -6an adapters and new hose

Street Build - ITFLYS - 1Gina2G

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